Return to the Appliances Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Posted by nkkp (My Page) on
Sun, Jul 25, 10 at 12:14

We have just installed a double F&P dishdrawer. The top unit works beautifully, however the bottom drawer won't drain. When we cleaned-out and removed the bottom drawer we found water standing in the metal base. Any suggestions? There are no flashing lights to indicate a code error.


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

What model unit?

There is a fault code U3 for failure to drain (based on the next fill being too short, the pump reaching prime too soon due to the residual water) but it's not displayed to the user, only seen when retrieving recorded fault codes via diagnostic mode.

Are you sure it really doesn't drain, or is water maybe backflowing in later through the drain hose from the sink or other drawer? The two drain hoses MUST be routed properly with a high loop under the sink.

Does the pump run during drain periods but there is no flow out the drain hose? If so, then something is blocking the flow.

It's normal for a small puddle to remain in the kidney-shaped drain filter toward the front.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

The model number is DD603I

Is there a way we can retrieve the codes?

There is a lot of water in the lower drawer only after the bottom drawer runs. Everything is fine when the top drawer runs. The drawer fills with about 3 inches of water and won't drain. The drain hose feels warm to the touch and we can hear the pump running but it doesn't drain the tub. The tube is looped (upside down U) high under the sink.

The remaining water is under the drawer - when we take the drawer out of the unit ( water spills out onto the floor) we see it on the bottom of surround.

Thanks for helping


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

If you just installed it, it should be under warranty. Why don't you call for a service call.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Interesting. Where'd you get a DD603 "just installed?" 603 is at least two series old. There has already been a 605 series (no 604, it was skipped), and the current models are DD24 (now using a different model syntax). Not that there's anything wrong with a 603, there haven't been a lot of changes from one series to the next since 603. Well, except the new DD24 Tall model.

Anyway, there's an air vent a few inches up on the rear wall of the tub behind the plate rack, which will leak water out if it gets up that high. You need to disconnect the power cord, pull the lower drawer and thoroughly dry the overflow (soak it up with towels, then use a hair dryer to insure everything is dry). There's a flood sensor on a circuit board down there that triggers both drawers into drain mode if it gets wet.

Hmmmm. On the previous reply regarding the U3 fault code, I'd been referencing a 605 service manual. The U3 code was used on 601 & 602, not used on 603, and reinstated on 605. So for DD603, there's no code for failure to drain. If it senses pump prime too soon (in less than 20 seconds of filling, which indicates the previous drain failed), the unit may try draining and filling up to 5 consecutive times (a normal drain period is 3 minutes) before continuing on with the cycle, but no fault code is recorded.

Try disconnecting the problem drawer's drain hose from the plumbing and run it into a bucket to see if anything is coming out. Assuming there's no water in the drawer, pour in just a quart or so, then start a cycle (every cycle begins with a 1-minute drain period), check if there's drain flow. (Or use the drain pump diagnostic test outlined below.) If the motor runs and no flow, then something is blocking the hose or pump outlet. Your drain hoses are connected to the plumbing using the Y-adapter included with the unit, correct?

I could send a service manual to you, but there's no e-mail contact on your GardenWeb profile.

As for Diagnostic Mode ....

1. With the drawer off (it can be open), press and hold Keylock, then press Start/Pause at the same time for 5 seconds. All LEDs on the control badge should turn on except Keylock. There are four diagnostic levels. After entering Diagnostic, pressing Power cycles through the levels, then Off. Press Start/Pause to activate the selected level. Once a level is activated, Power then turns off and exits Diagnostics.
Keylock + Start/Pause = Level 1
Power = Level 2
Power = Level 3
Power = Level 4
Power = Off

2. The first level is fault code display. Press Start/Pause once. There should be a beep. The last two fault codes recorded are displayed on the cycle selection lights inside the drawer. If none of the lights turn on, then there are no recorded fault codes. A second beep in a few moments indicates end of the display sequence. Press Start/Pause again to repeat if necessary. If you want to reset the recorded fault codes, press and hold Keylock to clear the first code (the second code moves to first position). Press and hold Keylock again to clear the second fault code.

3. Second diagnostic level is Hardware Output, which allows manual testing of drawer components. After entering Diagnostics, Press Power once. All the cycle lights should be on. Start/Pause then selects which component is tested, per the cycle lights. Press Keylock to turn on/activate the selected test (green light on Start/Pause button). Press Keylock again to turn it off. Multiple components can be turned on simultaneously, such as running fill through either the prewash or main wash detergent cup, but the controller board may not allow some items to turn on at the same time during diagnostics.
a. Rinse = LCD backlight (not applicable to integrated models)
b. Delicate = heating element relay (should hear a faint click). CAUTION - DO NOT run the element more than a couple seconds without water in the tub or it will overheat and blow the thermal fuse.
c. Delicate + Rinse = lid motors. Motors run for 10 seconds on to lower the lid. Then 10 seconds when turned off to raise the lid.
d. Fast = detergent diverter. Off - main wash cup. On - prewash cup (water flows through the active cup when filling).
e. Fast + Rinse = water valve.
*f. Fast + Delicate = pump motor in wash/recirculate direction (runs at 2300 to 2850 RPM).
*g. Fast + Delicate + Rinse = pump motor in drain direction (runs at 4200 RPM).
h. Normal = rinse aid. Turn on (press Keylock) to dispense a dose of rinse aid.
i. Normal + Rinse = drying fan.
j. Normal + Delicate = rinse aid LED (signals rinse aid is empty, may have to remove the cap to see it when the dispenser is not empty).
- There may be additional tests, other cycle light combos depending on the model ... some tests work only on prefinished models with LCD, not on integrated models without.

4. Third level is Fast Test Cycle (all cycle lights on except Fast). Close the drawer, press Start/Pause, and a 5-minute test cycle runs -- lid closes, fill, wash, heating element, drain, off.

5. Fourth level is Continuous Cycle (Heavy + Normal + Rinse cycle lights). Close the drawer & press Start/Pause. Whatever was the last cycle selected in normal operating mode will run repeatedly until Power is turned off. To change or select the cycle for continuous test, exit diagnostics, select a cycle, turn off the power, restart diagnostics.

* Drawer may have to be closed to run pump motor tests. My DD603 will run them with the drawer open. It's OK to run a drain test with water in the tub and open, no water will spray. But of course a wash/recirculate test will spray water out unless the drawer is closed and the lid sealed. Remember, you have to do everything manually in Hardware Output diagnostic, the lid won't close automatically before starting the motor.

Oh, almost forgot ... you may want to pull the pump rotor to check if there's anything obviously wrong with it, such a broken or loose drain impeller or something clogging the outlet.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

HELP!!! We just installed a single dishwasher drawer by Fisher Paykel DD24S on our boat. It performed fine for the first two times. The third time, we have an error message; E4 and the drawer is locked and holding our dishes hostage. After the E4 error it came up with 02.We called customer care and were told to contact a service co. Folks we are away from civilization often and this will not work. According to the book it is a heating element. Can anyone help?


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Try shutting off the power to it and then turning it back on at the breaker if necessary or the plug, if you can get to it. That should reset it so that you can at least retrieve your dishes.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Thanks for your suggestion. We did turn the power off and back on but that did not solve the problem. Our coffee mugs are still being held hostage and the drawer will not open. The boat is now in a slip in a marina and a repair person is scheduled for tomorrow. I will post the results.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

The drawer can be forcibly pulled open with the lid closed if necessary but DO NOT force it closed or the lid seal will be damaged. After fully removing the drawer the lid motors can be manually wound up to raise the lid.

Fault E4 indicates a failed heating element -- the water temperature was detected as not increasing during the cycle. 02 is a subcode on the main fault.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Hi I have a model DD60DCW6 product 80588 -A double F&P dish draw. muy problem is the top draw doesn't fully drain and after a short runing time brings up a "tap with a cross through it" on the lcd display and then two short repeating beeps for a alarm. when it first starts up it sounds like the water is draining away for a couple of seconds as you can hear the pump and the water flowing down the drain but only for a sec or two then it goes on to another stage before faulting, any suggestions as I am unable to find any manual or fauly codes test runing modes etc... cheers Damon


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Sorry to say but welcome to the world of Fisher Paykel dishSLOSHERS. I finally got rid of mine 3 months ago.. good riddance. If you can, do yourself a favor and return it. Google it and you will see numerous help articles on how to fix the things (because they are all broken and everyone is asking for help).

The only thing that helped mine was to increase the height of the drain hose. I moved mine to the absolute maximum and it really helped with the standing water issue. That being said, it was still a 1 in 3 shot if it would have water standing after a load of sloshing water around. If you have hard water, I recommend regular empty vinegar loads, which also helped with the drainage issue. The thing that really killed it for me was the lack of cleaning ability; it wouldn't fully wash the dishes and then the drying cycle would bake on the debris, requiring a handwash.

My problem is that despite the standing water issue, they never cleaned particularly well. See if you can return the piece of junk... I switched to Miele and my life is so much improved!


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

KiwiNomad --

All cycle selections begin with a brief drain period, that's normal.

The next function is filling for the first spray period of the selected cycle.

The icon you're seeing is a fill / water supply fault. Are you sure draining is the problem? You're seeing water remaining in the drawer immediately after a given cycle selection is fully completed and the unit has shut off? How much water? It's normal for a small puddle to remain in the kidney-shaped drain filter, but no more than that. More than that, especially if it collects a while after a cycle ends, typically indicates a backflow situation due to the drain hoses not routed with a high-enough loop or some other drain-side installation problem.

My DD603 will be 10 years in August. No repairs and it cleans quite nicely. As you may know, drying is "passive" via an exhaust fan with no heat other than what the dishware "absorbs" from the final rinse water, which may be heated as high as 163°F depending on the selected cycle.

-- I can't respond to your contact message. Your GW profile doesn't allow contact via the site message system, and you didn't provide an e-mail addy in the message you sent to me.

This post was edited by dadoes on Sun, May 19, 13 at 9:19


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Dadoes, I just had to say "thanks!" Your posts were instrumental in my decision to buy my DD603 several years ago and I am so grateful! I love them! I am remodeling my kitchen and came on the appliances board to look up something else and was tickled pink to see your name.

I'm curious, what do you think of the new DD models with the 2 drawer sizes? I am considering upgrading when I do my kitchen remodel.

PS - to OP, sorry to hijack your post!


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

I just moved and inherited a Fisher Paykel washer. It has performed wonderfully and I love it. I do have a question though about the standing water in the bottom. I have seen on here that some water in bottom is normal but how much? The stated small puddle on top of the kidney shaped filter confuses me. Does this refer to a bit of water on the solid part of that filter or water seen through the opening standing in the filter and of course the rest of the area under the bottom plate? Also my manual talks about the need to remove all the bottom parts to clean every month or so. Is this really needed? I have read so many bad things online about servicing these that I hate to go there.

Thanks for any info


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

I just moved and inherited a Fisher Paykel washer. It has performed wonderfully and I love it. I do have a question though about the standing water in the bottom. I have seen on here that some water in bottom is normal but how much? The stated small puddle on top of the kidney shaped filter confuses me. Does this refer to a bit of water on the solid part of that filter or water seen through the opening standing in the filter and of course the rest of the area under the bottom plate? Also my manual talks about the need to remove all the bottom parts to clean every month or so. Is this really needed? I have read so many bad things online about servicing these that I hate to go there.

Thanks for any info


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

There shouldn't be more water remaining than a puddle IN the kidney-shaped pump filter. It's a little difficult to see exactly how much is there in this picture but the filter is not quite full.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Thanks. I think mine has a bit more than that. It is not clean water either. The unit cleans very well so I am not sure I need to do anything with it. I will perform the cleaning under the filter and metal plate and see what happens.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Thanks. I think mine has a bit more than that. It is not clean water either. The unit cleans very well so I am not sure I need to do anything with it. I will perform the cleaning under the filter and metal plate and see what happens.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Any residual water is from the final rinse so should be clean.

Dirty water appearing there is likely from backflow through the drain hose. This is often caused by an improper installation, i.e. the drain hoses are not arranged correctly on a high-loop under the countertop. There's also a small rubber flapper in the pump outlet on each drawer to help prevent backflow that can stop working and need replacement ... although a proper high-loop on the hoses largely counteracts it from being a problem.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

In California, you generally have to have a siphon break, that sticks above the counter top. For the double drawer, I didn't think that the regular arrangement would prevent backflow into the other drawer (in case the flap valves don't work so well), so I installed it with a dual siphon break. If you don't need the siphon break, taking both hoses high before they combine with that U-shaped piece on a downhill to the drain/disposer should work fine.

So far so good, but we have only run a dozen loads or so -- not moved in yet.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

In California, you generally have to have a siphon break, that sticks above the counter top. For the double drawer, I didn't think that the regular arrangement would prevent backflow into the other drawer (in case the flap valves don't work so well), so I installed it with a dual siphon break. If you don't need the siphon break, taking both hoses high before they combine with that U-shaped piece on a downhill to the drain/disposer should work fine.

So far so good, but we have only run a dozen loads or so -- not moved in yet.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Beth203,

Your address is blocked for privacy so I can't reply to your GW e-mail message. Just wanted to say that per your description of the drain layout coming from bottom of the cabinet to the disposer connection, that is the cause of your problem with backflow. The drain hoses need to loop up *higher* than the disposer connection ... ideally a loop anchored under the countertop, then down to the disposer.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Strange that the installation booklet shows it this way. I did get a garbage disposal installed after I moved in. Maybe it worked better before that. I don't know. I guess I need to get a plumber to check it. Thanks!


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

One more question. The operators manual reccommends taking the filter and the arm and bottom plate off to clean every few months. Is that something that really needs to be done?


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Yes the filter plate should be checked. How often depends on usage habits. I don't do mine even yearly, maybe 5 or 6 times in 10 years.

Pull the drawer fully open.

Take out the silverware basket.

Raise the side shelves. Remove the rack by lifting it from the rear.

The arm sits atop the recirculation impeller, lift it off, no need to unscrew anything there. Check for any debris in the arm, clogging of the spray ports, flush it with running water if necessary.

Remove the separate pump filter, clean it as necessary. This can also be done as a separate procedure as needed if/when debris is observed in the pump filter, without removing the rack via the lift-up door under the silverware basket.

Turn the collar of the filter plate (around the pump impeller) counterclockwise to release it. Lift the filter plate out. Clean any accumulated debris that may be caught on the perfs on back of the plate.

The pump rotor can be removed by turning its collar counterclockwise, then lifting it out (a magnetic pull from the motor stator will tend to hold the rotor down). There should be three index marks on the tub bottom that match with three pointer tabs on the rotor to indicate locked position, turn the collar away from the index marks to unlock it. The rotor collar may turn to unlock position simultaneous when turning the filter plate collar, or may may not. (Newer units may have one index mark and pointer tab, and may also have a large o-ring atop the rotor collar, be sure the o-ring is in place when reassembling.) Clean any debris in bottom of the tub and in the pump sump area. As discussed, residual water in the sump is normal, you can soak it up with a cloth or sponge to clean any food debris.

Be careful to properly turn/align the rotor when replacing it. Don't force it, it'll drop into place when aligned correctly. Turn the collar clockwise to lock it.

Replace the filter plate, turn its collar clockwise to lock it to the rotor collar. Replace the pump filter. Set the arm atop the pump impeller.

Replace the rack by setting the *front* of it into the drawer first, then lowering the rear.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

I have a DD24 and am looking for trouble shooting suggestions.

The top drawer will not start.

It has power; I can change cycles; however when I press the start button I hear three quick beeps and it will not start. No error codes.

The bottom drawer works fine.

I have turned the breaker off and on in the hopes of doing a reset but no luck.

The first time this occurred three days ago, I pushed ever so gently on the drawer--inward--and the cycle started. That trick only worked once.

I am wondering if there is a misalignment with the sensors when I close the drawer. How can I tell?


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

The drawer-closed/open sensor is an optical gizmo, located at the top of the drawer on the right side just behind the front panel.

An infrared light beam is emitted from one of the light pipes, passes through a prism mounted at edge of the cabinet, then into the other light pipe.

Operation of the sensor can be tested via diagnostic mode ... but that doesn't help a whole lot ... in your case the drawer refusing to start for no other obvious reason is pretty much the same thing.

Matter of visually confirming that the prism is in place and that it and the light pipes aren't obscured with food debris. Misalignment due to the machine being off-square (wonkyness on how it's secured to the cabinetry) can occur. Also the rubber gasket that may be at top edge and/or around the sides of the cabinet can protrude too much and "cushion" the drawer from seating fully closed.

Loosen the drawer from the rails and pull it further forward enough to get a look (perhaps with a hand mirror) at the prism.

If the drawer isn't seating fully closed, could be that one of the rail latches is flipped the wrong way. Again, pull the drawer forward enough to look into the unit behind it and confirm that both latches at back of the drawer rails are flipped *open* when the drawer is *open*.

If everything with the light pipes and prism looks good, then possibly the control board IR emitter has gone bad. I've not run across that happening but I imagine it can. Unfortunately the emitter is part/parcel of the board so the board would have to be replaced.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

I have a Fisher and Paykel DD603 and it works well. However I noticed this morning that from last night's wash the cleaned glasses were a little misty but more importantly there was more water lying in the bottom than usual so I cleaned out the filter (there were a couple of peanuts in there) and put a cup of vinegar in before setting it on the hottest longest wash. Same thing when I opened it, more water than usual lying in the bottom. Having found those peanuts (we had some in a dish last week) my fear is that one has got lodged in the exit pipe, Any suggestions how to clear that out? Will it disintegrate in time if I just use the other drawer?

Thanks in anticipation...


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

A peanut fragment small enough to pass through the drain filter should go on through the drain hose ... but possibly could get stuck at the flapper valve at the pump outlet. Something thin such as sturdy wire or drinking straw could possibly be *carefully* poked into the pump outlet (don't puncture the hose!) from inside the tub to check for an obstruction.

Follow the usual procedure to remove the large filter plate ... then unlock and remove the pump rotor for access to the outlet port. There are two small openings at the front/bottom of the rotor cavity. The center port in there connects through to the pump filter. The drain outlet is a little to the left. Further checking of the outlet port would be by removing the drain hose from the pump outlet under the drawer.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

I have a Fisher and Paykel DD603 which has worked well over a number of years.

The top drawer will not change cycle - it is stuck on Rinse.

It has power and I can run the rinse cycle but I can't change change cycles. The bottom draw works fine. No error codes.

I have turned the washer off and on in the hopes of doing a reset but no luck.

Any suggestions?


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Have you actually tried cutting the power at the power panel? Sometimes that works even when a reset on the machine itself does not.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Power, Start/Pause, and Lock buttons work normally? The cycle selection buttons (including Eco) don't work, it's stuck on the 12-min Rinse selection?

Disconnect the power (pull the power cord or turn off the circuit breaker, whichever) for 60 seconds as suggested above. If that doesn't help, then likely a control board problem.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Hoping someone can help. We have a DD602I installed in our home and it is running into an issue where it doesn't want to complete a cycle. If you hit start, it runs for about five minutes, and based off of the drain hose, it looks like it just keeps filling and draining. After about 5 minutes pass, the dishwasher beeps repeatedly with a three tone pattern every second. If you open the drawer while its beeping, the Rinse, Fast and Delicate lights are illuminated in Red. The drawer also has a history of never fully draining.

I have tried power cycling at the breaker, disconnecting the drain hose and ensuring it was clog free on both ends.

When observing a cycle with the front plate removed, the machine appears to fill multiple times before it throws the error. On the dispenser, there is a bunch of water flow on the left. As soon as you see any water flow on larger right side of the dispenser, it throws the error and starts beeping.

I hope this is enough information to get me started. I called up Fisher & Paykel and they said based off the light code I was getting it could either be blocked drainage or low water pressure (both which I have ruled out).


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

I had a similar situation on my DD603 lower drawer recently. I'd disassembled the filters and pump rotor (both drawers) for examination/cleaning (as usual not much cleaning was needed).

Upon starting the next run of a load in the lower drawer, I noticed it would fill for a minute or so, then immediately drain ... fill, drain ... fill, drain. I couldn't figure what's the problem, nothing obvious with the loading, lid wasn't jammed or obstructed, no leaking, etc.

Ended up I pulled all the dishes out, disassembled the filters again, pulled and reseated the pump rotor, reassembled the filters making sure it was locked in place properly to the rotor .. and then it worked. I'm guessing something was a little askew with the rotor and it couldn't properly sense the fill level (via the pump rotor load when primed).

Anyway, on your case ... the left dispenser cup is for the prewash detergent dose. Water doesn't divert to fill through the right-side cup until the main wash period. All fills for a given drawer are through the same incoming line/hose, there's a gizmo in the dispenser that moves left or right to direct the flow. Long as the water flows, it can't go anywhere but into the drawer (unless the dispenser is seriously failed and leaking out the back) so I can't come up with a reason why left vs. right cup flow would make any difference.

Rinse + Fast + Delicate = U3 - Blocked drain or HP/LP setting error.

HP/LP is high or low household water pressure. There's a diagnostic/programming routine for setting this parameter. Low pressure is considered as LESS than 7.25PSI (such as would be supplied by a gravity tank). Seems unlikely that situation applies to you ... so 1) the setting somehow got changed wrong, or 2) your water valve is clogged with sediment or mineral deposits, or some other factor is impeding the flow rate.

To check the setting:
- with the drawer powered on, press and hold Eco (first) and the cycle selector button at the same time for about 5 seconds.
- press Start/Pause button to alternate between HP and LP. A high-tone beep occurs for HP mode. A low-tone beep for LP mode.
- press Power to exit after selecting the correct mode.

HP would logically be the correct setting. But you might try LP to see what's the effect. If it works OK on LP, and assuming HP was the previous correct setting, then further investigation into an obstruction on the water valve and/or supply line seems indicated.

Note -- I don't have a DD602 to confirm the procedure. DD603 doesn't have this programming routine.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

We have a leaking problem with our DD605 dishwasher. During the fill and pump-out parts of a cycle, there is a leak below the bottom drawer. This happens when either the top or bottom drawer is being used. Water apparently leaks from connection(s) under the plastic cover below the bottom tub and drips through a drain hole into the pan. I can't figure out how to remove the cover to access the hoses/connections and don't know what to look for as the leak source. Would appreciate any suggestions.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

We inherited a pair of drawer dishwashers when we moved into a house. Both dishwashers had their motors replaced completely last summer when we were having trouble with getting both to clean (the wand wasn't spinning in the bottom dishwasher, and our home warranty service people just replaced both motors).

Now, we have a problem with the top dishwasher: it's been full of soap for months. My first assumption was that I'd overfilled it with soap, so I rinsed it aggressively, ran a vinegar load, ran a heavy-duty load, etc. Still had two or three inches of bubbles at the bottom at the end of the cycle.

We've looked at the drain hoses and even had someone come out to check our disposal set up to make sure everything was draining correctly. I didn't add any soap to the machine for two months and ran it probably several dozen times through rinse, normal, and heavy modes to get the soap cleaned out. We had maintenance folks come to look at it, and they were baffled. It has no codes. They suggested replacing the soap dispenser until they understood we hadn't put any soap in for weeks and weeks.

In the meantime, the water doesn't drain. If I run a half-cycle, stopping in the middle, I can get an empty dishwasher with no soap, but that's the only way.

Today, we had a new circuit board installed in the front as the theory went that the triggering circuit to drain/rinse wasn't working... and after a new round of regular wash, with a small amount of Cascade soap added, it's again filled with soap bubbles at the end of the cycle.

Above that, the dishes aren't clean at the end of the cycle, either, and there's a long, low noise in the middle of the cycle that the lower dishwasher never makes. (This happened in the load way back when that started this all, too; the dishes still had food residue and soap residue all over, and they smelled).

I've read that sometimes soap bubbles like this show up after someone has put dishes in that had dish soap (like Dawn) residue. It's absolutely possible that I pre-soaked something with Dawn in it two or three months ago and then put it in the dishwasher... but would it still be soaping up now like this all the time?

Any ideas? It's a DD603 model.

Any ideas?


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

1) Did someone mistakenly place dishwashing liquid (Dawn, Palmolive, whatever you may have) in the rinse agent dispenser? It's dispensed in the final rinse so that would explain why the foam doesn't appear if a cycle is canceled midway through.

2) Excess rinse agent can cause foaming. Perhaps the rinse aid dispenser is leaking (if dishwashing liquid is not involved).

There's not really a specific "circuit" on the controller board involved in draining and rinsing. The cycle is sequence is programmed onto firmware chips.

There are multiple fill, spray, and drain periods in each cycle. Normal for example runs five fill/spray/drain sequences. There's nothing different about the fill/spray/drain functions from one sequence to another.
- Prewash (or Prerinse if detergent is not placed in the prewash cup)
- Rinse
- Main Wash
- Rinse
- Rinse


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

My DD601v2 DishDrawer works well on the bottom however the top has a U3 error where I have eliminated almost everything that could be wrong except the 'electronics incorrectly sensing the load' and that it has been programmed to Low water pressure.

In the process of checking to see if it was set on High Pressure (HP) or Low (LP) I have discovered that the 'program' button on the inside of the draw doesn't seem to work. I pulled the front off and pulled out the controller to see if the button on the controller could be pressed to ensure that the controller worked but neither the 'program' button or the 'eco' button work just on the controller withmy finger but the 'eco' button does work fine back in place in it's normal functioning position.
Any clues as to how to proceed to work out if the controller is bung or is it the water level senser?
Kindly Sam


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

There is no discrete water level sensor. Fill level is determined by the controller monitoring pump motor current draw as per when priming is reached.

U3 is for fill (pump prime) happening too quickly, the premise of it is that the drain side of the pump or the drain hose is impaired in some way ... leaving too much water behind after a drain period.

The buttons are sensor/capacitive-touch so require proper grounding for the sensing circuit to work.

A way to troubleshoot a bum controller is by swapping the upper and lower controllers to see if the problem moves along.

Mysterious fill faults that don't resolve to the electronics can be caused by a flaky water valve.


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

Thankyou Dadoes for your feedback.

Understanding that the fill level is measured off the current drawn from the motor pump is helpful and swapping the controllers is a simple and effective way to test them.

I was about to swap them over and decided to try the existing controller once more in place and IT WORKED and was able to check the water pressure setting and it was in fact set on LP - low. I changed it to HP - high and it now works like new. Problem solved no more U3 fault.

I don't really understand why the program button now works. Either the controller has an intermittent issue or it could be something else.
Dadoes, any ideas?


 o
RE: Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem

No specifics. Could be that the longer-term power cycling of removing the board and/or reseating the connectors got it back on track.

More of question (to me) is why was the LP/HP setting reversed? Was LP correct previously and your mains pressure recently changed? HP is the default.

Nice to hear that you have a DD601 still running. What's the serial number? I may be able to decode the manufacture date.

I can send a service manual via e-mail if you'd like. Send a message to me via GardenWeb's member contact system, be sure to include your addy (that can receive an attachment) in the text. People sometimes contact me via GW who have their address hidden for privacy which prevents me from replying directly.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Appliances Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here