They are fairly standard on Euro kit. I believe they are designed for easy connection to control boards and plugs. If you were to open up the cooktop, or oven, ect... you'd see the other end has the same thing or sometimes eyes and those are attached to the control board with screw terminals.

I'd just get a plug and matching receptacle and wire it up. You could always cut those ends off and hardwire it into the box with wire nuts too. Would be a ba idea to check with your local inspector as some places don't like you to cut those and some don't like 220v plugs that don't come from the factory.

As long as your connections are tight and encased in a UL approved device you are gonna be safe.

Thanks! We were just at Ace Hardware buying a new chain saw and my husband saw a 220 v plug that he figured was what we needed for it but we held off to see if anyone had a response. Maybe after we cut down these trees we'll try it.

They're made to go into screw-on terminals. Or clamp-down, as it were.

Hopefully someone can give me a hand....So I am awaiting delivery of a Miele 5773 induction cooktop and I am getting ready to run the 6 gauge (50A) wire for the cooktop.

Do I need to install 6-2 wire or 6-3 wire? Based on the installation manual and the picture above, there are two hots and a ground. No neutral. So I assumed I need to install 6-2 wire but 6-2 wire has a hot, neutral and ground. So it seems I need to run 6-3 wire (2 hots, neutral and ground), but what do I do with the neutral that does not hook up to the cooktop?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!
Lou

No, 6-2 wire has two conductors and a ground. You are allowed to connect the two conductors to two breakers in the box for a 220v circuit (a double breaker). You must put a marking (piece of tape, black or brown) around the white wire at both ends to indicate that it is not a neutral but a 'power' conductor.

However, if this is a new circuit you might want to think about using 6-3 instead. Some time down the road that cooktop might be replace with something than requires a neutral. For the Miele, you would just cap it off inside the box where the other connections are made.

Great thanks for the info. I am going to run 6-3 for future proofing and just cap the neutral in the box.

Thanks for your help.

Because disconnection of power to the cooktop may require disconnection of this cable (unless the breaker box has or supports lock-out means or is in view of the cooktop), it is better to use tap type connectors (see link for one example) in the box where this cable terminates instead of, say, large wire nuts, such as the pale blue size. The box has to be big enough to fit the tap connectors, as well as handling the bend radius limits and volume that apply to number six conductors in boxes.

Alternatively, taped up u-bolt connectors can be used. In both cases, the crimp on the cable keeps the strands from wandering about and potentially not contributing to the current path. If stranded number six conductors are used on the supply side, similar crimp sleeves should be used for tap connectors and u-bolts. MSC Direct is one source of crimp sleeves.

kas

Here is a link that might be useful: Greaves Corp PBS2 for example, page 56

where do o connect the green wire? I have red on red black on black, should I connect white on green?

If your configuration is green on the cooking side, it should be connected to the grounding system. Unfortunately, you didn't specify which side is which. In proper wiring, green denotes part of the grounding system; white denotes neutral, which shouldn't be grounded except at the point of disconnection near the power meter. You could connect a cooking device green to the white (which you need to tape green) if at the other end the white is also taped green and connected to the grounding system in the box.

Dryers grandfathered-in may be grounded using the neutral feed. I don't recall whether ovens or cooktops are also allowed to do this.

You are getting into details that should be resolved by an electrician, or else you should get a copy of the 2017 NEC Handbook from the NFPA and read the relevant parts (not a few, unfortunately).