Does it light with a match?

Also is there anything else on the electric line where the burners are plugged into?

Also are the igniters all connected with the orange wire under the burners? Just trying to eliminate all the more obvious issues.

Yes - polarity correct, will light manually and orange wired are connected. Still no clicking!

Have you checked your circuit breaker box?

Yes, circuit checked. And the outlet works - wouldn't it not work if the circuit was blown?

Yup - sounds like you need a service call.

Blah, am I wrong to be concerned about accepting a dead on arrival appliance vs. insisting on a replacement? Not sure...

Hmmm. Just a guess, but I'd venture to say that the spark module(s) needs to be replaced.

The fact that the burners light manually is a good sign. It's most likely the spark module or some electrical connection. It can most likely be easily fixed - in which case you don't want to go through the hassle of swapping the range out.

Agreed. It he more I think about it, the more convinced I am that's it's a very simple repair: probably the lead wire to the spark module got disconnected and needs to simply be reconnected.

if your'e feeling adventurous, here's a step-by-step tutorial that another member posted in a different thread showing how to access the spark module:

1) Turn off power to the range. Breaker is easier than sliding and unplugging.

2) Remove knobs (rubber gloves or a jar opener help with gripping). Remove drip pan

3) Unscrew control panel- there are screws underneath plate holder and just above drip pan (easier to take out with oven door open). Remember that the self-drilling screws go back underneath the plate holder along the top edge of the control panel (I didn't at first).

4) Either let the panel hang down or rotate it up and over to rest on the plate holder (be careful of the oven thermostat capillary tube when doing this).

5) Unscrew the brackets that the module on the right is attached to the stove with. You do this with a screwdriver from inside the burner area.

6) Unscrew the module from the brackets. Leave the module wired up and just hanging there. Pull out the brackets.

at least this way, you can see if the lead wire is connected to the spark module, and if it's not, you could easily reconnect it yourself.

Wow, that's some poor QC on the part of the mfr. Don't they test all their units prior to crating & shipping?

Could be as simple as a wire coming loose during shipping or handling.
Can you access the junction where the pigtail connects to the rangetop? Or the spark module connection?

I'd agree the connector could have barely been on and it could have passed QC then when shipped out it could have worked its way off and now it doesn't work. Nothing is perfect, hopefully this is an easy solution/fix.

I'd recommend that you wait for service unless you're very handy. You don't want to give them an excuse to void your warranty.

It's definitely a simple issue that will have a simple solution. BlueStars are simple robust appliances.

When we got our RNB, in the middle of burn-in, the oven stopped getting hot. It was a simple part that took 20 minutes to replace and all is well.

This happened to me and the repair guy told me the wire cannot touch the metal on the bottom. All he did is fix it so it was raised up--very simple.

Thanks everyone for all of the helpful info! The bluestar rep walked me through fixing mine since they couldn't come out for a while to look at it - I opened the "wire way" along the right side and one of the wires going into the clip from the power cord was loose. Once I tightened it, it worked. Now I smell gas for a while after lighting it so the plumber has to come take a look at the gas line (which is now turned off). Can't wait to be done with renovations!