Something apparently is placing undue stress on the cables. Do they pass over rollers that aren't turning? Misalignment? Custom-paneled door too heavy?

Never heard of this in 20 + years in the industry.

With multiple occurrences, I'd suspect an alignment problem.

Do you have a factory door on the unit or a custom panel ? What is it made out of and how thick is it , if custom ?

Was the unit new in the box or a close out / scratch and dent ?

Additional information:
This is a standard door-not custom or heavy.
This was a new dishwasher right out of the box. Not an 'outlet' model.

When the door breaks we find pieces of plastic - looks like wheels or pulleys on the floor. Is this the kind of parts Bosch puts in the dishwahers?

Although this is not one of the models I am aware of, try calling Bosch because there are a number of models that are having the cables replaced under a rework. Not a safety issue but a better for the customer issue.

This is a year later from the original post. Ours has been replaced 5 times in the 5 years we have had it. The cord (who uses rope?) keeps breaking.The last repair guy did not tighten the lower panel. It was loose. We had no problems with the door, until this was tightened. Then within 10 days the cord had broken again. So I have come to the conclusion that the front panel at the bottom is pushing on something that in turn is cutting the cable ( or the panel itself is doing it somehow).

Since five people have fixed this and none have mentioned any alignment issues, I consder this to be badly designed.

I have seen several cases where someone installed screws that are too long and the screw hits the rope/cable and cuts it. Since yours has happened several times that is the most likely cause.

Possible, but since it has happened since it was installed new out of the box it means the supplied screws were too long.

I thought I posted this, but mine broke too. We haven't yet figured out what caused them to break, nor have we gotten it fixed yet.

There is an issue especially with 7 series machines (SHX7ER, SHV7ER and SHE7ER). Outside of that they do occur, but a lot of times due to tension, or installation. If anything rubs on that cable (I will confess that bosch should have used something more sturdy than a piece of string!) or if the tension is too high it can snap.

There are several screws that come in the installation packet and some are longer than others. I've also seen where an installer has used drywall screws to hold the toe kick and these will cut the rope.

I've been working on Bosch since 1999 and the system rope/cable system they use today is the same type they used for the 16 years I've worked on them. I suppose there are millions of these units out there with no issue.

Several years ago, in a training, I saw a video where I think they said they test the door opening for 20,000 cycles so the cable systems seem to hold up well.

If you have the cables replaced have the tech install the toe kick before putting the d/w back into the cabinet to see if anything is touching or interfering with the cable. Also the cables are not that hard to replace if you want to do it yourself.

We'd love to DIY the replacement - is it self-evident (DH is very handy), or can you tell us how? (The tech came twice, and both times he said he couldn't get the machine out of its spot to fix the cables - my DH got it out no problem).

If you google Bosch Door cable you will get places that sell the parts and have videos on how to do it. I am frankly not up to parts of that project. Also I still have extended warranty time on the one I have. For once such a warranty has paid for itself.

It's pretty self evident. Just pay attention to how your are taking the cable off and install the new the same way.

I remember Bosch having a consumer version of the parts lookup on their website here is the link http://www.bosch-home.com/us/store/category/dishwashers

You will have to put in your model number in the keyword search. This site works almost as good as their servicer only site.

Thank you both. Weber, we're in warranty, but as I mentioned, the servicer was somewhat useless in that he claimed on two occasions, he couldn't get the dishwasher out to fix it. We had even pulled it partway out the second time. Still not fixed. It would probably just be easier to fix it ourselves.

Weber Baker, in your post you said the when the tech left the screws loose the door had no problem but when the screws were tightened the cable broke. This is clear that it is the screws that are too long.
When you have service have the tech cut about 3/16 off the end of the screw before reinstalling. Also, as I said before, have him put the screw in just after replacing the cable to see if it is touching the cable. Shortening the screw will fix your issue.

Just a followup. The appliance repair person came again yesterday, and I have to correct something I said (disparagingly) earlier. It wasn't his fault we couldn't get the dishwasher out far enough, it was the contractor's fault! Anyway, he and my DH were able to wrestle it out (now that it's back in, we'll correct the issue) and he replaced the cables (both had broken). In his opinion, it's the weight of the custom panel that causes these things to break. Anyone else of the same opinion? He agrees it's a design defect to make them this way for paneled doors if paneled doors are the problem!

The problem seems to happen more commonly on panel ready units. I would say 70% of the time. My guess is that if the panel is even a little heavier than the bare minimum it puts a lot of stress on it. When combined with a tight install it seems to fail a lot

I think that's likely then. We'll just have to be careful, but at least we know how to fix it if it happens again. Thanks.