Per the parts diagrams at SearsPartsDirect.com, the unit has multiple electrical/electronic components that could be at fault -- what appears to be two safety thermostats, a cooling fan for the control panel, a relay, two microcomputer boards plus the touch panel.

A common failure after self-cleaning is a thermal safety fuse that protects the control electronics from overheating. The fuse blows due to overheating, insufficient cooling airflow, and must be replaced. This unit appears to have two but I don't have a wiring diagram or tech literature to confirm their functioning.

Couple of entries on the link below about this being a control panel problem or dc transformer ( as in ac/dc electric). From this link, see more by going back one page and enter "self clean oven" while under Kitchen Aid ovens and further discussions will pop up.

Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Discussion Link:

There had been a ton of posts about the KA ovens failing after cleaning, both here in Garden Web as well as other internet sites, in fact there may be several class action Lawsuits due to the problem.

In Most of the cases, Dadoes is correct, it just blows a thermal fuse, that unfortunately most DIY'ers can't replace themselves, It's on the back of the oven.

There have been repair kits put out by Kitcheaid to "Hopefully alleviate" the problem.

Just google Kitchenaid ovens Thermal fuse or Kitchenaid oven self cleaning failures to see this info.

My money is with Dadoes, I "Bet" it's the fuse!

Gary

KA wall ovens failing after self-clean were the topic of previous discussions. The unit of question here is a set-in model ... but a blown thermal fuse may still apply. Per the parts diagram, the thermal cut-out (#17 on the diagram, part number 341196) is at the right front under the control panel, not at rear of the oven cavity.

There is also a high-limit thermostat at the left side (#20 on the diagram, part number 9579944).

Thermostats by definition auto-reset upon cooling. Thermal fuses blow and must be replaced.

As with any part failure, confirm the item(s) of question are bad by testing with a multimeter or other method before ordering replacements.