Hi. It's me Susan. I'm happy this is still helping people . We still have our NXR and love it. Dad, the other set of hands in the photos has since passed. He was a real Mr Fixit and my inspiration. Now if only I could fix my LG refrigerator !!!!

This is another fix for the warped base:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fp8AiuPi544

Hi. It's me again.... Susan. The ignitor failed again and I had to replace it. It was easier now thanks to scungilli ... I just removed the screws holding the flex hose in place and the back screws holding the burner in place. This made accessing the ignitor a million times easier. Thanks scungilli . Now that Dad has passed, it is bitter sweet to look over this thread.. Anyway, I want to reiterate how grateful I am that this could help even one person. Very happy others are adding more and more tips / info. We still love our NXR.

Sorry to hear about your Dad, glad it helped you out though. My NXR is 10 years old now and still working great for the most part. I do get the clicking ignitors more often now and have to sand them down and clean them up a bit more often these days.

Adding to the advice given above and in the you tube videos, if you are still getting the clicking after trying the surface burner-base fix shown in the videos linked by Susan and scungili, look at the flames for the burners' center rings. If one or more have ragged or very unevenly fluttering flames --- or non-existent as was the case with one of my 8 y.o. model's burners --- you may need to clean out the tiny venturi jet that feeds gas to the center ring of the burner. (Note that the front venturi feeds the shorter (non-centered) shaft for the center ring while the center venturi feeds gas through the larger shaft up and out to the outer ring of the NXR burners). I tried reaming with the smallest sewing needle I could find, but its diameter was too large. What I found that worked was the smallest two "cleaner drills" in a torch tip cleaner kit like this one from Lincoln Electric that I found at our town's hardware store: https://www.truevalue.com/welding-tip-cleaner-kit Most hardware stores seem to carry these kits.

Also, my sympathies, as well, on your dad's passing.

Anyone have a gas smell after replacing igniter? I replaced igniter and now the oven does light and heat up but I keep smelling a gas smell. Is this normal when the igniter is replaced?

You definitely should not be smelling gas. The igniter gets hot first, then when heated enough, gas is allowed to flow, causing ignition. I would check the joints where your connections are with some soapy water and see if gas is leaking somewhere.

Adding this to update on NXR repairs after eight years of daily use of my NXR model DRGB and finding (somewhat to my surprise) that NXR has a replacement parts website which charges less than some of the usual suspects for replacement parts like RepairClinic, GuaranteedParts, Dvorson's, etc.

A couple of weeks ago, the oven igniter began to fail, again. This was five years after I first replaced it. Ignition was taking longer and longer, up over three minutes when I deemed it time to replace it. The part is still available through the amazon link that scungilli listed above, although the price has now risen from $17 to all of $18.91. Also available from local parts supply warehouses but at a much higher cost. (Our local Sundberg's has the same piece for nearly $80.)

Then, a few days later, the oven safety valve failed. When I took things apart, I found corrosion and constant use had eaten a hole in the U Shaped Burner tubing where the igniter mounts to it. Maddy/Susan's original post has a couple of links to videos on testing the igniter and the safety valve by measuring continuity across the contacts; continuity means it is probably working, lack of continuity means the piece is dead. Here's a photo I took to show testing continuity across the connectors on the valve.

The reading of "open" on my VOM means that there is no continuity and the valve has stopped working.

And here is a photo I took of the corroded, burnt out hole that I found in the U Shape Baking Burner where the igniter mounts at the end of the right hand burner tubing. This is after 8 years of fairly heavy use and kind of looks like the burners I recently replaced on my gas grill.

Went looking for generic replacement parts. Had no luck finding anything less expensive than what Duro charges for the OEM replacement burner and valve at ShopNXR.com. (Might be some out there that can be made to work but I got tired of looking). Interestingly enough, though, ShopNXR prices were lower than the usual online sources like Dvorson's, RepairClinic, etc.

Now, ShopNXR was not cheap, but it did save me a combined $150 on the two pieces and the shipping charges. (The trade-off on free shipping, btw, is that ShopNXR uses only USPS 3-Day for shipping and does not offer any expedited shipping methods even if you should happen to be in a really big hurry to get your stove back in operation for a holiday shindig.)

Here’s the link for the replacement safety valve which seems to be the same for all versions of the NXR ranges from the NRG through the DRGB models to the current models: https://shopnxr.com/collections/range-parts-1/products/safety-valve 

Here’s the link for the replacement U-Shape oven burner for the DRGB and all subsequent models: https://shopnxr.com/collections/range-parts-1/products/u-shape-burner

The original NXR models (models beginning with “NRG”) use a different burner which can be found here:

https://shopnxr.com/products/u-shape-burner-17?_pos=2&_sid=a1d7534d7&_ss=r

Anyway, everything is back together and seems to be working as well as it ever did.

n.b. --- In case anybody is searching Houzz on replacement NXR safety valves, I also mentioned the valve replacement in Maddy's/Susan's thread about replacement safety valves, "Susan's NXR oven safety valve is broken. What's the part Number?"

Hi. It's me Susan. it tickles me that people are still here. JWVIDEO well done.

Nice writeup...I can't believe the pricing for some NXR replacement parts, especially the individual stovetop burner parts...A total ripoff and overinflated pricing in my opinion. These are 2 examples, but not from NXR itself...

http://www.guaranteedparts.com/NXR/NXR-10600001A0.html

http://www.guaranteedparts.com/NXR/NXR-10600003A0.html

Well, that is interesting.

For the burner cap which is $62.94 at GuaranteedParts, ShopNXR has it for $19 -- https://shopnxr.com/collections/range-parts-1/products/inner-burner-head

For what GuaranteedParts calls an "outer burner head ring" priced at $111.18, ShopNXR calls it an "inner burner base" and has it priced at $60 -- https://shopnxr.com/collections/range-parts-1/products/inner-burner-base. 

On the other hand, shopNXR isn't always the best deal. Fr'instance, the OEM oven igniter at ShopNXR is $82, which is rather higher than the generic replacement from Amazon, eh?

Warning! be carful using after market parts. Check Amp draw on the safety valve. It needs to be in the 3.1A to 3.5A range.

Thought I should take the time to write a comment after going through a bunch of repairs with my NXR oven. First off I had a failed igniter that broke off and ended up resting on the burner, shorting out and cooking the safety valve plus it put a large hole in the burner like the picture above that jwvideo has. I found the NXR web site but being too cheap I opted for a different approach, I found a igniter (not NXR) at the local store that looked the same but without the sta-kons connectors. Then I simply retired the broil function by swapping the safety valves. Worked great, problem solved. 3 months later the safety valve failed. I believe it was due to the new igniter I installed being wrong, the aftermarket igniter I found at the local store had a draw of 7.5amps. NXR igniter draws bang on 3.5A

I researched new ovens and quickly decided It was probably best just to buy all the parts I need from NXR store. Around $750 CAD later, 2 x safety valves, oven burner and Igniter. I would hope I get another 5 years out of it.

thanks for the info. I've replaced the ingnitor 3 X now and never had a problem.

Found how to fix the burner clicking . Youtube video helped with that.

Now, I'm trying to find a new OVEN LAMP. Mine just went out. Also, how easy is it to install a new oven lamp... I looked at it and also Duro website ($30 for one , whole unit not just bulb... bummer)... when I detached the oven lamp didn't look simple ... not just changing the bulb ...do I have to remove the back panel of my stove / move stove out from the wall? I still have one lamp lighting .

Maddy -- Have you seen the old thread on replacement NXR bulbs, ATTN NXR Owners?

Quenstion: do you need a new lamp (the whole fixture) or just a bulb? The older NXR models (NRG ones) used a press-in pin-base bulb. Some of the early DRGB units apparently also used pin-based bulbs but most DRGB and later models on use a screw-base bulb. The bulb should just unscrew. (It may be pretty tight after 7 or 8 years.) Replacement bulbs also may be easier to find. The screw-base ones for my DRGB are listed in the linked thread -- Phillips 330C 125v 25w Phillips Italy XK5. A few years back, I got one from Dvorson's but, IIRC, I had to call and ask for it because it was not listed on their web page for NXR range parts.

If you need to replace the fixture, you will have to pull the stove out. You then start by removing the oven vent and back panel. With those off, you can slide off the three stove-top panels to expose the wiring that runs across the top of the oven compartment from the light switch at the top front left hand corner of the range. When I ran into a similar problem a few years ago, I found a break in the wire to one of the lamps. It broke just behind the light switch at the top of the oven. The wires to the oven lamps are very small gauge (maybe 18 ga. or even 22 ga.) so they can get brittle. Also check the solder connections on the pins on the back the switch. If you need to wire in a new fixture/lamp, you might have to remove a side panel as well in order to pass the new socket and wires down to the lamp location.

yes I did read thru that thread. I was dismayed that these bulbs are hard to identify / find . when I disconnected the lamp from the side of the oven,.... I was unsure how to remove the bulb... unsure whether it was even possible. Do I pull it out? ( it's not a standard screw type bulb from what I can tell it is a pin type. ) If I have to pull out the stove remove panels and check soldering / wiring it sounds like the job may be a little too much for me.... getting old and it would be difficult for me to just move the stove out. As long as the lamp on the other side is working I may must leave it as is... would cost too much to have a pro do it. I wish I could just replace the bulb and see if the bulb is burned out.

I have the same hole in my oven u-shaped burner tube that jwvideo showed. The u-shaped burner (GL36001032AOW or DVNX-RGB36) is sold out or backordered in all the usual parts supply houses, including ShopNXR. I called ShopNXR and they said 6-8 weeks was the current estimate from the manufacturer. One of the parts suppliers told me this part has been backordered since November. Anyone know if this hole can be patched by a good welder, or is there another manufacturer that makes an equivalent replacement? Pic of damaged burner tube and igniter: https://ibb.co/G5GRwgf

Thanks for the tip re: the alternative igniter. Just replaced mine for a second time, and that part # was a lot cheaper than the "OE" one (the nxr people were kind enough to send me the first one for free as it was barely out of warranty). Seems to work fine so far.

In trade, I will offer up a couple of my (exceedingly many) experiences from keeping my nxr range alive for the past 8 years.

First off, a good stainless welder can DEFINITELY fix the U-shaped burner. I noticed the same issue on my last igniter replacement, and experienced the same backorder issue with NXR parts.

I had it welded this morning, and it works great. The welder hammered the blown-out perimeter back into shape and just hit it with his bead (ie: did not section in a new piece) until it was closed. The weld is a bit bulky, but solid and clean - and he recommended leaving it vs grinding it down for aesthetics, as the extra material will likely help prevent future blowouts. The igniter has perfect clearance, and functions properly!

Here it is post weld. He was able to keep it far enough away from the tiny holes to where they are still intact and operational. The before picture of mine looked exactly like the one pictured above.

While my cost to get this done was definitely reduced as I have brought a lot of work their way over the years, this took under 15 min, so even at the typical minimum shop rate, you will likely come in under what they charge for a replacement.

As for the clicking stovetop issue: The videos on youtube do correctly point out the cause, but unfortunately did not solve it (for mine, at least). In particular, the bottom burner base is what tends to warp the most and the sandpaper method is inadequate, as sandpaper tends to just follow the warped surface, and doesn't properly cut it straight. A friend who is a machinist threw it on the lathe, and after a few minutes spent aligning it properly in the chuck, shaved off a few thousandths, resulting a nice smooth surface. Not only did it resolve the clicking once and for all, I have also noticed that the flame is much more stable/consistent than it was even out of the box. I would also imagine that doing all four would be about one shop hour - definitely cheaper than replacement, and may even last longer (will update).

Here is one of the burner bases, post machining.

When our lamp went out several years ago, I purchased these (probably not from Amazon, but I don't recall where). It was really tough to find back then, so I bought a handful.

WSDCN E14 Oven Bulb 120V

Hope that people find some of this helpful! Also, Jose, the service tech at the NXR parts house (Duro Corp) is amazing. Extremely knowledgeable, and very friendly/helpful!

This thread has been a great help in dealing with our NXR oven issues. First the igniter died, which I was able to replace, now the burner has blown a hole which I am attemping to fix.

In removing the burner and igniter, several of the screws have stripped. I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get additional screws? It was the screws that fix the igniter to the burner, and the burner to the collar that joins to the gas lead. Thanks!

A decade on and the broiler igniter has worn out on my NXR (DRGB series). Found this YouTube video on how to replace it with a generic igniter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uat-Oa4f9Ac 

@Walter Downing: have you found replacements screws, yet? If not, and if it is the screws themselves that are stripped, generic replacement ones are available at any hardware store. Be sure to get stainless ones. Stainless limits the chances of them rusting in place. If it is the mounting holes that are worn, buy the next larger diameter size.

Hi there. Susan/Maddy Reynolds threads on houzz are definitely the best resource for NXR parts! Our oven stopped lighting (no ignitor glow; tested at around 200 ohms) and I found her other thread on the safety valve. Tested it and it looked fine. Ordered a new ignitor just in case and that didn't solve the problem. I then realized that the red oven light next to the Oven knob doesn't light when I attempt to turn on the oven! I vaguely remember it lighting before. Does that mean it's a bad knob? Not sure what else it could be since ignitor is now new and safety valve has continuity! Thanks for any help!

Also tried turning the oven knob all the way to "Broil" and the broiler ignitor doesn't glow and the red light next to the oven knob still doesn't light... Can anyone confirm that your NXR oven light turns on as soon as the oven knob is turned on (before the burner even ignites)?

Yes my light comes on as soon as the know is turned to broil or bake and doesn't go off at all on broil but turns out when oven reaches temp. Hope that helps.

Does anyone know where to find a replacement U-shaped burner for the DRGB3001? Mine has a large hole in it. Is this still safe to use? I'm in Canada and having a hard time finding this.

DRGB

Hopefully, this response at least bumps your post to keep it visible longer.

Can't speak to NXR parts sources in Canada. The source I used here south of the border when I replaced my DRGB3001's oven burner tube was: https://shopnxr.com/collections/range-parts-1/products/u-shape-burner. Couldn't tell from a quick look at the website if the part is in or out of stock or if they ship to Canada, though. Also, if there is a metal fabrication shop anywhere near you, they might weld a patch. Somebody above did that instead of buying a new tube.

I actually contacted shopnxr.ca and they posted stock for me. Hopefully it doesn't take too long to arrive.

Good to hear. Let us know how it works out.

Shopnxr.ca showed no stock for the u-shaped burner. Called them and they added stock to the site so I could order. Shipped a couple days after ordered. Overall happy, my oven works great again.

Thanks to all the posters, been great just reading all the posts and details. Its like reading detective novel.

Our nxr drgb3001 is almost 10 years old and mostly been trouble free. Clicking noise have been issue and comes and goes.

Now one of the knobs broke, nxr have them on back order. Any after market knob that fits, in Canada hard to source parts.

Thanks

I have been annoyed with the burners clicking for a while now; even with cleaning and sanding them down, they were still clicking often. I watched plenty of videos and read many complaints, but I could not find anything at all in my searches on how to eliminate them permanently using the method I just used. I installed a toggle switch on the front panel and ran the wires to the line input power at the blue igniter box on the rear of the range, giving myself the ability to stop power to the igniter, but keeping the burners going. The stove and broiler are unaffected by this modification. The one issue I do have to be concerned with is if somehow the flame gets blown out or if there's a boilover or spill that extinguishes a burner, that burner will still continue to flow gas and that can be bad if no one is watching the stove at the time. The entire cost of the job was $15 for wire, connectors, and the toggle switch at Lowes. Here's a quick video of my workaround:

NXR Range Clicking Fixed - YouTube

Anyone have an issue with the oven not igniting. Have replace both the igniter and safety valve still won't light any suggestio s would be greatly appreciated at a complete loss right now

I haven't had it 3 years yet so frustrated

Hi guys,

I have a crack in one of my range-top ignitors and its shorting the sparks to the gas flame spreader. Anyone know what a good replacement is?

Wanted to bump this because this thread is great. Our DRGB3602 from Costco is 9+ years old now, on our 4th? I think? Oven ignitor and 2nd broiler ignitor. I just had our burner welded today to repair it and was able to order a spare replacement new from NXR Parts directly. Call them if you need something.

Of interest, spoke to a woman at Dvorak parts (Marin Restaurant Supply) who explained these ignitors are good for something like 1000 starts more or less then they start to build resistance and stay on longer, actually burning the hole in the burner. With heavy usage plan to replace them approximately every 2 years, which lines up w/ our timeline and extra usage during Covid times. Hope this helps others.

P.s. Parts list - great resource: https://www.guaranteedparts.com/picture_library/NXR/NXR.pdf

I have a NXR gas range. Just received new igniter. Does it matter which wire goes where? Both connectors are exactly the same.

There is no polarity on the ignitor wires, connect either way.

Thanks for the NXR Parts List, Corbin.. I just found my ignitor is $207 each! That is crazy. I bought the NXR because I understood the parts were sourced from multiple other well known brands and I didn't want to be in this position.

Does anyone know where to source a stove top electrode ignitor for an NXR?

NXR says that my stovetop electrodes are no longer being made and I'm SOL. I'm searching all over for them, there has to be a match somewhere.

I gathered that the stove-top igniters were on back order but did not know they had gone NLA.

Seeing the absence of any responses with direct information on possible generic substitutes, I would try taking the problem igniter to a parts warehouse to see if they can match it with a similar model. Perhaps for one of the sibling Hyxxion ranges (sold under the Thor and Kucht brands) or maybe one for the older model Wolf or DCS ranges which also had dual-stack Isphording sealed burners.

Thank you for this tip! I'll post what I find.

Looks like Electrolux stoves used the same burner's as the NXR.

https://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Spare-Sales-01-038-275-10-ELUX-5304462216/dp/B09JTZHG85/ref=sr_1_113_sspa

The ignitors are all out of stock, but its a lead. Still searching.

Fits Models: E30GF74GPS, E36GF75GPS, E36GF76GPS

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/frigidaire-ignitor-5304462226-ap4298634.html

thanks for the update. Now I know where to start researching should any of my igniters fail.

I'll keep posting updates, but all the electrolux ignitors are out of stock too.

HELLO,

Love this thread. I have the new oven ignitor in hand, ready to go and can not get off the kick panel. The middle screw is stuck. I have covered it in PB Blast and banged the heck out of it.

Anyone else?

Not sure how you could bang on a sheet metal screw along the bottom of the frame. Have you, perhaps, tilted the range and braced the front feet up with blocks or a 2x4 to get better access?

Do you have or can you borrow a cordless impact driver? (Maybe you've already tried that?)

A kick panel with a middle mounting screw; does that mean your NXR is one of the 36" wide models? (I'm asking because my 30" model's kick panel doesn't have a "middle" mounting screw.)

Guys, still incredibly stuck on finding replacement ignitors for these stoves. If we can't source these our stoves are done for when they go out. I'm hoping to find a generic replacement, but worried about the ability of the ignitor to sense the temperature and re-ignite if too low. Nothing is long enough that I'm finding.

Thanks JWVideo,

Yes, it's 36 inch. And a split over shepherd's pie is why the screw won't come off. I used the impact drill, good suggestion, just ended up completely stripping it. Got out the big Rockwell and sheared the head right off. Made a bit of a mess but it is covered when I put the kick panel back on.

B B I ordered a new igniter directly from NXR. $82 but cheaper than a new stove. The igniter has to get to a certain amperage to open the gas safety valve.....I think 2.8?

you ordered a new *stovetop* ignitor from NXR? When I called they were out of stock. I have two with cracked sleeves and the spark doesn't happen at the top

Ok team, I have ordered some completely different ignitors that were also made by NXR but not for our stoves and bootlegged them into the NXR stovetop and it works! So in general you just need something with suitable length and appropriate thickness ~1/4".

Thanks for the tip!

OHHH

Hi. So I have problem with this burner. There's a huge " bubble" on it and it causes igniter to short. I know some of you had holes burned out but in my case it's a bubble.Nxr is out of stock. Does anyone recommend other sources / places for this u shape burner?

https://thorkitchenparts.com/products/part-number-10201038

Just replaced mine that had the blown out bubble problem with this. Same BTU, same length, and it's a perfect drop in replacement at about half the price as the NXR part (if you can get it). The slot on the mounting tab is wider than the NXR, but all that needs is a small washer. Thor may even have a better design - the ignitor mounts further away from the burner. I suspect that moves the fuel ignition out of the burner tube and may prevent the bubble problem, but time will tell.