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Questions on making standard refrigerator flush with cabinets

flwrs_n_co
13 years ago

I have several questions regarding trying to make a standard refrigerator flush with cabinets:

1) Is "boxing in" a free-standing refrigerator okay for the motor? Do you still allow several inches at the back of it for air circulation? i.e. are there concerns about overheating due to totally surrounding it with cabinet walls?

2) I've read about bumping out the back wall in order to get the flush look. That's not an option for us, but I think I could do deeper cabinets on that wall. Is that possible if we're not doing custom cabinets? I'd like floor-to-ceiling cabs on that wall--maximum storage--with maybe a "hutch" look to the cabinet area. Any negatives to doing it this way?

3) Anything else I should be aware of before planning on this?

Our refrigerator is probably going to be at the end of a cabinet run and I don't want the side of the refrigerator showing since many stainless steel refrigerators don't have stainless on the sides.

Thank you for any help/advice you can give me as I'm just in the planning stages and trying to sort everything out before I start shopping for cabinets.

Comments (12)

  • weedmeister
    13 years ago

    the specs for the fridge you chose will state how much clearance is required at the sides, top, and back. Usually it's something like 1/2 to 1 " on the sides, 1 - 2" on the top.

    knocking out can mean just removing the sheetrock on the wall behind the fridge, and any studs that might be there, without disturbing the wall behind. You would replace the studs with a header and jack studs and gain 3" of depth.

  • flwrs_n_co
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Thanks for the info, Weedmeister. I thought bumping out the wall meant moving it back. Good to know I need to figure out which fridge before finalizing cabinets.

  • bjwright1
    13 years ago

    If you do bump back the wall behind the fridge as weedmeister described, make sure they install the outlet above (not behind) so that you can push the fridge all the way back. If you can't bump it back and want to have deeper side cabs. without going custom, is it possible to take a 24" deep cabinet and install is 3" out from the wall somehow but make the counter top still go back above the 3" void to touch the wall? I would like to have the same look without buying cab. depth fridge.

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    13 years ago

    Some fridge wires/plugs aren't long enough to mount high like suggested above. You can use what's called a clock outlet that has a recess made into it for that purpose. Bt the fridge manual will describe the optimum height and location for the outlet to eliminate any interference with the protrusions.
    Casey

    Here is a link that might be useful: recessed duplex receptacle.

  • lala21
    13 years ago

    You'd need to create a frame or false wall to attach the cabinets to and give support to your countertop. How long is the counter next to the fridge? You might think about how much it will cost for the countertop's extra square footage if you were to make them 3" deeper. It adds up quick and might cost just as much as a counter depth fridge.

  • flwrs_n_co
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Thank you all for your words of wisdom.
    Weedmeister, I'll be sure to figure out which fridge I want and check the manual for recommended clearances before I finalize kitchen layout.
    Bjwright and Sombreuil, I'll be sure to check the manual and discuss placement of the fridge outlet with the KD & GC to avoid later heartache. I never would have thought of that on my own--thanks for the warning!
    Lala, I don't know if I'll try to bump out the back of my wall behind the fridge--still in early research & planning stage, but I'll be sure to make sure the back of the counter is supported. I think I want to do upper cabs down to the counter top to maximize storage so counter top won't be full depth. Not sure about this wall of storage though--may make my kitchen feel too small plus I won't have any other countertop near my fridge for landing dishes.

  • creek_side
    13 years ago

    It is standard practice to bump out ONLY the refrigerator cabinet. That way your counters remain at the normal 24 depth.

    The sides of the refrigerator cabinet are known as legs. You will want to check on how thick they make them and how wide the facing (wrong term, but I can't think of it right now) is. It looks better if it is at least a couple of inches. An extra deep cabinet goes between the legs above the fridge.

    Do not make the mistake of having a 36" wide opening for the fridge to slide through. For decent maneuverability and good air flow, a 36" wide fridge needs a 37" opening. Be sure to leave at least one inch, preferably more, between the top of the fridge and the bottom of the top cabinet.

    When the fridge is installed in the cabinet, it must stick out enough that the doors can swing past the 90 degree point, otherwise you won't be able to get the drawers out.

    If you decide to get extra clearance by setting the refrigerator back into the wall, remember these points.

    1. You can't do it on an exterior wall because of the insulation.

    2. You can't run wiring or piping back there, so it eliminates outlets in that area of the room behind the fridge. The electricians will have to plan for this, and the plumbers need to be aware of it.

    3. If you push back too hard on the fridge, it will bump the sheet rock for the other wall, possibly damaging it. That wall will have little structural strength, since there will be at least 36 inches between studs.

    4. The water line (if any) and outlet will probably have to be installed in the floor at the very back of the space.

  • flwrs_n_co
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Thanks, Creekside. The fridge is on an inside wall, but I'm pretty certain it must be load bearing (dining room is on the other side). I'm beginning to think maybe I should just do a CD fridge--just really didn't want to pay more for a fridge with less room (trying to keep my appliance budget to I'll definitely keep all the advice in my file in case we decide to do it this way.

  • davidro1
    13 years ago

    If you recess only two inches, it will help a lot. It makes a difference.

    The warnings above are a bit too strongly worded to make me comfortable.
    -- Compressor noise doesn't come through a drywall sheet and disturb the room behind the fridge. Not in my experience with a 25 year old Noisy fridge and my having removed all studs and pushed the fridge back to the drywall of the other room. There was even a perforation in the drywall for an electric outlet, and still no complaints...
    -- Studs are easy to add, and a partial recess doesn't leave the drywall hanging with nothing to support it. In the gap between studs, gluing a second sheet of drywall onto the back of the first is a great way to get a more solid surface wall in the other room. Less bendy, and great for receiving the nails for hanging pictures and the like.

    If the recess is 3" (in a 4" thickness wall) you will have left enough room for wires to cross that space and you can double the drywall across most of the surface exposed. Ta da.

  • creek_side
    13 years ago

    "If the recess is 3" (in a 4" thickness wall) you will have left enough room for wires to cross that space and you can double the drywall across most of the surface exposed. Ta da."

    I hope you are not suggesting that exposed electrical wiring be run across the wall behind the fridge. That is what it sounds like.

  • dan1888
    13 years ago

    Pull the standard cabs out as far as you need and double screw a 2x4 ledger board to the wall studs to support the rear counter. If you want to advance your design pull them out 36 inches and include a return run to double usable counter space into dual work stations. Both sides of the "L" use the same space. Two work together.

    Pulling the drywall is low tech and diy. The cost is more in 'getting' the idea than in money.