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kellyja58

Kitchenaid dishwasher vent issues

kellyja58
12 years ago

To all Kitchenaid dishwasher owners, I am preparing to purchase a dishwasher and have read much on these forums about the issues with moisture venting out on cabinets and under the counter. Can any recent new owners tell me if you are experiencing problems with this. Kitchenaid says vents stay closed during cycle unless door is opened. If that is the case, I don't understand how people are reporting problems.

Comments (155)

  • e e
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    The brand new Kitchenaid dishwasher has been having a couple of issues about 9 months. Steaming mostly from the vent (left) and a little from the right side of the dishwasher during washing and rinsing cycles. The model number is KDTM354DSS. First, the door was not closing tightly so a technician came to TRY to fix it 5 times by replacing the spring in the door, gasket, etc., but it didn't work. Finally, when the technician called Kitchenaid a couple of weeks ago for advice (because he did everything what he could do to fix the door issue), Kitchenaid told the technician that the model# and the serial # on my dishwasher has a top rack issue. I guess Kitchenaid just figured out the issue about a couple of weeks ago and distributing new railing system for this issue! So the technician came back again and replaced the upper rail system. Now the door is closing tight; however, the steam from the vent didn't stop. Yes, the vent had damaged the cabinetry to the left already. This is a brand new dishwasher and having the same issues from the beginning is not acceptable.

  • Kevin T
    6 years ago

    Hello everyone. I just thought I would toss my experience in. We have the A Kitchenaid KUDE70FX*5 which I installed in 2014. A couple of months ago we started having the steaming issue, out the side vent, described here. I downloaded the technical aid, ran the diagnostic, determined the fan is no longer working, and order the replacement assembly. Now just waiting for it to arrive. Thanks for all the information here.

  • miles1010
    6 years ago

    I have given up on ours. After completely blocking the vent off from the tub using a metal lid, we were still getting steam coming out of the side vent, just not as much. Pulling out the adjacent drawer when running kept it from being damaged. Still couldn't figure out where we were getting steam from. This went along for a couple of months until about 3 weeks ago when I came home from work to find the dishwasher still running in wash mode after having started it 10 hours earlier. Stopped it, drained it, and removed the front door panel. Back of stainless panel was covered in condensate. Insulation below the toe-kick also dripping water. Thought maybe the seal on the bottom of the door, which is just rigid plastic, was the problem. When messing with the door to see how to get it out, I removed the vertical vent flue that connects the fan/vent at the tub with the outlet at the toe-kick. That's when I realized it went through the part called a vapor barrier at the bottom of the door panel. When the dishwasher is running, this barrier is the only thing between the water in the tub and the door panel cavity housing your electronics. They (the mfr.) punched a hole through this white plastic part to put the vent tube through. I figured I would just remove the vent tube as we had already blocked the vent off inside the tub. The new replacement part for the vapor barrier does not have the hole for the vent tube since they quit making it that way. Once the new part came, minus that hole, I put it on figuring I had solved how the steam is getting into the door panel. Hooked it back up but had the same problem with my controls getting stuck on wash. The control panel had sat for about 10 days waiting for the part to come in and should have dried out so the steam must have damaged the controls. New controls are well over $200 so am not going to replace. Bottom line - paid $850 for this dishwasher and used it for less than 3 years - 18 months of which were spent messing around trying to get it to quit steaming up my cabinets. Approx. $150 spent under warranty getting Sears out to "fix". I think if I had known sooner to replace this vapor barrier part that had a big gap in it for the vent tube, my controls wouldn't have been damaged. The vapor barrier part cost $18. Bought it online from Walmart. If you still have the vent tube in use, I really think this is the weak point - where the tube penetrates the vapor barrier - and if you can come up with a way to seal around it, that might solve the steam issue. A silicone caulk should do it. That's what I used to attach the canning lid I used to block the vent hole with. It held up through 3 months of wash cycles before this problem, and is still attached. It only takes about 10 minutes to remove the front panel, and another 5 minutes to replace this part.

    Sorry for the lengthy post but I've spent almost 18 months fighting this problem. The vapor barrier part I'm speaking of is the white plastic flat piece you see at the bottom of the door front when you remove the cover panel. It spans the width of the front, about 2" high, It's actually L-shaped, with the bottom leg of the leg forming a seal front to back of the door cavity. I think the hole in it was allowing enough steam into my door cavity to short out the controls. The wash cycle kept running, causing water to eventually compromise the bottom door seal and wet the insulation behind the toe kick.

    Good luck to the rest of you. Every dishwasher I've researched gets a number of bad reviews, from Bosch's smelling bad, Kitchenaids having pump failures, others being too expensive. Right now considering a GE from my local non-chain appliance store. Due to go on sale Memorial Day weekend. Gets 80% good reviews and can get it for around $600 installed with old one hauled away. Good enough. I don't have faith in any of them lasting more than 5 years so am not putting any more than that into it. The old Kenmore I threw out when remodeling the kitchen was still running after 18 years - just wanted to update. Should have kept it.

  • angelasalinas02
    6 years ago

    We have a Kitchenaid Dishwashwer Model # KUDS30SXSS8 which has a builtin water softener and vents on the door as well as the side of the unit. The air escaping was so intense that it destroyed our kitchen cabinet. We contacted Kitchenaid claims department and they quickly admitted fault and agreed to pay for all damages. We purchased the dishwasher through Sears and after multiple repair appointments and wrong parts ordered they have refused to admit there is an issue. They went so far as to state that we purchased "cheap cabinets" and that it is our fault. We have a Master Service agreement that should replace it but they have stated the dishwasher is working normal. The cabinet maker completely disagrees with Sears' assessment as does the designer we worked with when we remodeled our kitchen in 2013. I am curious to know if anyone experienced a similar issue or type of damage?

  • bagofchips
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I have a KA kdtm504epa which I just noticed tonight has this moisture problem. I was fixing a broken circ pump and had pulled the unit out. Note it's NOT door vent related but rather something is happening on the left side of the unit where its internal high drain loop is. My left mdf cabinet sidewalls are just starting to show moisture damage. This model is 1.5 yrs old. Is the plastic on ONLY the left side of the unit's sound insulation padding a lame attempt by them to address the problem?

  • Bob Dorris
    6 years ago

    If this helps anyone... a solution that worked for me was just to re-paint, then layer a few coats of clear gloss over the dishwasher front wooden panel that was getting damaged. Turns out the clear coat is strong enough to withstand the steam and protect the wood for quite a while. Might need to be re-coated on occasion, but it's a relatively easy solution if it works for you, too.

  • bagofchips
    6 years ago

    You can also look into 3M clear removable protective material, usually used for automotive like bumper protection. May be too glossy. Supposedly removable. Been thinking about using with a similar issue on my microwave drawer (only an issue on longer runs and manageable with towel draped on drawer front below it that bears the brunt).

  • bagofchips
    6 years ago

    This comment won't get read by a lot of people. But to summarize there seem to be two alleged sources of moisture venting discussed here.

    1) Vents on the top side edges of doors. Unless your dishwasher has vent tubes connected into the door (show me the dishwasher that hast that), the likelihood of significant steam emitting from these passive vents seems far fetched. If the door's inner panel is well sealed (and it has to be to protect the electronics which further get dedicated sealing) then not much moisture is going to get out those vents. I think the real problem is overly moist air is evacuating out a port on the bottom front of the dishwasher (on bottom left front edge of most KA / whirlpool / kenmore / frigidaire variants).

    2) moisture leaking deeper on the side, such as on the left side evidenced a couple posts above. What I've learned from this thread and elsewhere is KitchenAid et. al. have had a faulty inlet valve / connection. KA has attempted to address the problem with a flimsy plastic cover for the insulation blanket which seems like a cynical attempt to prevent moisture from reaching the side cabinets or the insulation. IT DOES NOT WORK. Instead of fixing the problem they kicked the can with a kludge. Seems like class action fodder to me.


  • miles1010
    6 years ago

    Bagofchips, in response to your 1. Vent comment, all of the dishwashers early on in the comment string including mine (circa 2013 Kenmore Elite, aka Whirlpool), have a vent tube connected into the door - fact, not far-fetched. There is a vent into the tub that connects to a vertical tube that travels down the inside door panel and out the toekick. The only thing keeping steam out of the door panel cavity is a damper on this tube that malfunctions. There is a large gap in the vent tube structure where on some models a fan is housed. (see Geobrick's photos further up the chain). The fan also malfunctions (not all models even have the fan assist). The controls themselves are not sealed against steam in the door cavity. Trust me, I've had 3 service calls plus have taken this door apart myself. The controls are exposed to steam in the door cavity. There is a lot of steam being allowed into the door cavity when this damper malfunctions, which then comes out the side door vent. The vent tube itself also penetrates a plastic vapor barrier at the bottom of the door panel through just a cut opening - not sealed/gasketed in any manner. This further allows steam from the tub to get up into the door panel. Older models do have a vent into the tub. If you take the door panel off immediately after a cycle, the whole inside panel has condensate all over the back of it, and the insulation is wet. This occurred even after we disconnect power to the vent damper and completely sealed off the tub penetration. At this point the steam was coming up through the vapor barrier around the vent stack. By the time we realized this vapor barrier had been factory compromised, my controls had been steamed/ruined and it wasn't worth the close to $300 for a new control system.

  • debbie hyman
    6 years ago

    In response to "As far as the suggestion for a class action suit, it always seems to me the law firm ends up making all the money and if successful, we'd all get a check for 93 cents." I could care less about making money on this. I would like to protect other consumers from suffering the same problems. No amount of complaining seems to do any good. Making them pay lawyers might.

    In response to "We purchased the dishwasher through Sears and after multiple repair appointments and wrong parts ordered they have refused to admit there is an issue. They went so far as to state that we purchased "cheap cabinets" and that it is our fault. We have a Master Service agreement that should replace it but they have stated the dishwasher is working normal. The cabinet maker completely disagrees with Sears' assessment as does the designer we worked with when we remodeled our kitchen in 2013. I am curious to know if anyone experienced a similar issue or type of damage?" Our experience was very similar. They tried to say our water heater was too hot. Although it was set at the recommended temperature for safe dishwashing.

    I really hope something can be done to protect others from going through this nightmare.

  • tessyts
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!! After seeing the pictures and reading the post above, we will NOT be purchasing any K.A., W.P., or K.M. products. Not now and NOT EVER! I'm thankful to have stumbled upon this conversation. It's been daunting to find real customer reviews and ratings online. It doesn't sit well with me to read a "customer" review that says in fine print at the end, "this review was provided as part of a promotion". I also read that some online product rating and reviewing companies had been paid by some of the manufacturers for more positive reviews/ratings. The reviews and pictures here have been enlightening and very believable. Would love to know what dishwasher to buy. Any suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. We have a septic tank and I have read that we shouldn't use a rinse-aid. I do not care how much it cost because I want to protect the cabinets that they are building to go into my kitchen.

  • Kevin T
    6 years ago

    That's unfortunate. I think its a fantastic dishwasher, even the best one I have owned to date. Each manufacture has their own issues. Even with the issues I have had I still prefer it over the last Bosch dishwasher I had, which also had its on set of issues.

  • jt879096
    5 years ago
    I just had my kitchen remodeled last spring and the steam from the KitchenAid side vent has caused the paint the peel and chip from both under sink doors.
  • tarheel72
    5 years ago

    Sorry to hear that. I had a top vent model that I installed on a remodel in 2008 and it never gave me any problems. In 2016 we built a new house and installed another KA, this time with the side vent. So far no issues whatsoever. In fact I cannot ever detect any steam or moisture coming from it. However, we do not use the PRO WASH cycle or any of the high temp options, just the normal wash cycle. Likewise, we never use the self clean cycle on the oven. I think all of these are taxing the appliance to its limits and best left alone. Dishes come clean and if there is a spill in the oven I clean it up. Not worth the risk to me.

  • Heather Henderson
    5 years ago
    This is happening with our Jen air pro model too! The design is so bad I can’t even understand how this past engineering.
  • bagofchips
    5 years ago

    Side venting like that is pretty dumb. They could have at least vented the louvre outward. My fan blower is on the bottom... presumably to toss air out from beyond the general dishwasher vicinity. Wow your drawer fronts are even made of wood not MDF like mine and the wet / dry cycling has induced splitting.

  • HU-33404504
    5 years ago

    Here's a copy of the tech instructions from KitchenAide on the side vent emitting moisture onto cabinet issue. https://www.whirlpoolparts.ca/POL/ServicePointerDownload?pdfName=W10436103-C.pdf Also, I've had to have the electronic panels replaced three times. I now know it's because the damper is malfunctioning and allowing steam to collect inside the door panel that houses the electronics. When they get wet, they fail. And, since the damper is not closing to force the steam down the tube to the bottom vent, the only place it has to go it out the side vent, which is really meant to be a fresh air intake vent. My cabinet is ruined!



  • dgetz
    5 years ago
    We own a JennAir dishwasher that was installed 2 years ago, and I just noticed finish damage on my cabinet adjacent to the side vent. I don’t believe there is excessive moisture coming from this vent (or I probably would have noticed damage sooner), but it is going to be a problem over time. I am going to attempt some type of protective measure on my cabinet and see how that goes. So disappointing to have this issue!
  • HU-33404504
    5 years ago

    dgetz - I didn't notice my cabinet damage until year 2 1/2. I think it's because that's when the fan and damper started to malfunction.


  • geobrick
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    The vent system is a terrible design even when the damper functions properly. When it opens to let moist air escape, there's nothing preventing that moist air from getting inside the door panel and escaping out the side vent. Nothing forces it down the tube because the vent assembly isn't sealed. See the photos I posted way back in this thread. You can see the area next to the fan is completely open to the inside of the door panel. The tiny fan can try to push air down the tube but with the area completely open, it's not all going to go down the tube (plus, hot air rises). I hope after all these years they came up with something better because other than the problem of ruining kitchen cabinets and causing the electronics to fail (though not in my case), it's a pretty good dishwasher.

    Maybe the trick is to not use the ProDry option. According to the link above, the damper will be closed for the full cycle and stay closed for 6 hours after the cycle ends. At that point all the moisture should condensate on the stainless steel walls and drip down the drain. But that assumes the damper hasn't failed. If your getting moisture out the side vent or inside the door panel and you're not using prodry or don't have the prodry feature, the damper has probably failed.

  • miles1010
    5 years ago

    Sad to see this is still going on. I got rid of my Kenmore version of this dishwasher back in May of 2017 as it had steam-cooked my second control panel. When I made my final take-apart of the door panel, I finally saw how the vent tube penetrated a vapor barrier at the bottom of the door panel, with no means of sealing that vent tube penetration, thus allowing steam from the tub to get up in the door panel. I think that is the weak link. By then, we had completely removed the vent tube entry to the tube, block the damper shut, and sealed off the opening into the tub compartment. That penetration at the bottom of the door panel would have been the only way for steam to enter my door panel cavity once we sealed that off. By the time I realized this was where the steam was entering the door panel, I was looking at a $250-$300 circuit panel so decided to call it quits. I have a GE now that does a great job, is very quiet and didn't cost me an arm and a leg. Other than the steam issue, that Kenmore Elite (rebranded KA) cleaned the dishes well, was quiet, etc. But it was blowing away my custom cabinets, leaking on the floor from steam dripping out of the door panel, never shut off due the steam causing control panel issues, etc. In researching for another dw, none really got stellar reviews, even the high end ones. For every person raving about a model, I found others with major complaints. So went with what was affordable, purchased from my local independent appliance store, and just figured I'd be replacing it in 5 years.

  • mradkie
    5 years ago
    FYI I am on my second KA dishwasher in 4 years! The control panel on the first one (installed in 2014) went out in 2016 and KA could not supply the part....after months of calling them and being insulted and lied to they finally replaced it. Now 2 years later I just paid $400 for the pump on this one to. E replaced! On a first name basis with the appliance repairman with all my 4 year old higher end appliances. DO NOT do business with Whirlpool!
  • geobrick
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Well I spoke too soon when I said "other than the problem of ruining kitchen cabinets and causing the electronics to fail (though not in my case), it's a pretty good dishwasher".

    My wife noticed the wood floor buckling in front of the dishwasher. I pulled out the dishwasher and saw significant water damage under the dishwasher. I ran the dishwasher while it was pulled out from the cabinet to see where the water was coming from and it appears to be coming from the area of the diverter motor. So after only 5 years there's a leak that likely caused more damage then the cost of the dishwasher.

    What brand can we buy and what do we need to spend to get something that will perform well for a reasonable period of time and not cause major damage to our houses?

    In the 18 years I've lived in the house, I've had the Viking that came with the house, an LG and this KitchenAid. Of all those, the KitchenAid was the best. That's how bad the others were.

    Do I try Miele? Samsung? I need something that at least matches the look of the Kitchen.

  • geobrick
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Here are the details about the leak. When I pulled the dishwasher out to find out why the floor was buckling here's what I found.


    This was on the wall next to the round discoloration



    So I lifted the insulation and saw this.

    But this never reaches the floor.


    This is the equipment at that location


    Here's a close-up of what's probably causing it.



    And likely caused by a failed diverter motor seal.


    If this hasn't happen to you yet, it probably will. We need to get away from this brand (whirlpool, KitchenAid and all their other brands). They can't expect us to trust them ever again. This dishwasher is only 5 years old and has been through too many problems. This one being the worst for me. Others have had their cabinets ruined.

  • geobrick
    5 years ago

    New Discovery!. (at least to me). Pictures to follow.

    A failed vent assembly is not the only source of steam venting into/onto cabinets.


    The water inlet on the left side of the dishwasher is a completely open design. There isn't a valve or anything to prevent moist air from escaping the washer tub through the water inlet. More details to follow.. .

  • dadoes
    5 years ago

    Many dishwashers have an "open" inlet flume (goes back many years), not just WP brands, as do many washing machines.

  • geobrick
    5 years ago

    Probably so but on this dishwasher, for whatever reason, enough water vapor is escaping from the opening to cause the damage in the 2nd photo in my post above.

  • geobrick
    5 years ago

    Just following up on the suspected diverter motor seal leak that caused the floor and cabinet box damage. I replaced the seal and if fixed the leak (not related to steam venting from the water inlet - that's a different issue). I was able to use the part recommended in the comment section of a youtube video demonstrating the fix. A guy named David Olsen commented on where to get the seal now that whirlpool doesn't seem to sell the part by itself. They want you to buy the whole sump assembly. The seal will cost about $6 with usps shipping. So far it's working fine.


    After I get all the damage repaired, if I keep the dishwasher, I'll probably get a leak detector and/or one of those plastic pans for under the dishwasher so any leaking water would come forward where it can be seen as soon as there's a problem.


    Here's some pictures of the seal itself.





  • geobrick
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    And here are the images of the water inlet showing how there's nothing preventing moist air or steam from escaping during the dry cycle. According to Dadoes most brand water inlets are made this way. I think the newer versions of the Kitchenaid dishwashers have plastic around the sound insulation to prevent moisture from damaging the MDF on the inside of cabinets. But then where does that water vapor condensate? It's got to go somewhere.









  • Heather Henderson
    5 years ago
    Wanted to update my earlier post about our JennAir Pro that ruined our cabinet. Unfortunately, we were not looking enough to have our supplier stand behind the product and we purchased a new Bosch dishwasher that vents internally.

    JenAir sent me a adhesive piece of essentially tinfoil. I had to laugh out loud because they seriously thought that to remedy this problem I should wrap the side of my cabinet in adhesive tinfoil! So ridiculous.

    Lesson learned. Avoid the side event and look for another brand that doesn’t vent out the side. On another note, for many months we fashioned a piece of tinfoil to deflect the moisture, but soon found the water was puddling on our wood floor as it dripped from the tinfoil..
  • dana fischietto
    5 years ago
    Just purchased a home Nov 2018, with this problematic KitchenAid dishwasher (model KDTE404DSP0)with side vent the is flush with cabinets. Ruined the cabinet when I did my first load. :(
    Not sure how the previous owner did not have this happen. Apparently they hand washed.
  • dynamitework
    5 years ago

    I'm glad that I was able to find this forum as I recently discovered the exact same damage to the inside of my cabinet caused by the VERY poorly designed water inlet assembly (photos below). Again, as stated previously by others there are mainly TWO SEPARATE issues that are being discussed in this forum (1. the left door vent issue, and 2. the left side water/condensation issue which is damaging the inside of cabinets caused by a poorly designed water inlet port -part number W10195536). My issue is with the poorly designed water inlet port.


    Unfortunately for me, my unit is a Sears/Kenmore (manufactured by Whirlpool), and although there is at least one "Technical Service Pointer" (bulletin) which Whirlpool has released regarding this issue, several attempts at contacting Sears/Kenmore have yielded absolutely nothing.


    Is it Class Action Lawsuit time? Yeah, I think so, too.


    Here are a few that I have learned so far which others may find helpful (and hopefully a lawyer somewhere will eventually read all this and feel inspired to take further action):


    *Whirlpool has issued a technical service bulletin regarding this issue which states: "All Plastic & Stainless Steel Tall Tub Dishwashers DISHWASHER STEAM BLANKET- Models: All Plastic & Stainless Steel Tall Tub Dishwashers Serial Numbers: Date Range: All to F440 NOTE: If produced after this date, order blanket per repair parts list. Concern: Condensation may form on the left side of the dishwasher, the surrounding cabinets, or on the underside of the counter top. Cause: There is a potential for moisture to reach the cabinet walls when the dishwasher is installed into a tight cut-out. Due to the tight fitting cut-out, moisture emitted from the siphon break cannot always dissipate or evaporate freely. Correction: Remove and discard old blanket and replace with new plastic-lined blanket (P/N W10380479). Install the new blanket using the same attachment method as the original blanket. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the plastic lining is on the same side as the siphon break (left side). S-CODE to cover part only is S31831. "


    ....So, "Condensation may form on the left side of the dishwasher, the surrounding cabinets". They claim this is CAUSED by installing the unit into a tight cut-out. HOWEVER, according to the installation instructions furnished with my unit, my unit was installed WITHIN THEIR SPECIFICATIONS. I submit that the condensation issue is IN FACT CAUSED by THEIR design error, and/or THEIR ERROR to provide adequate installation specifications so that my cabinets would not be damaged by the normal operation of the unit.


    *The part number of the water inlet port has been revised: They no longer produce or offer the same water inlet port that came with my unit. If you try to buy it from Whirlpool, or Sears/Kenmore you will get a new and slightly different part number. Which probably means that they have re-designed the part to help rectify the design flaws associated with the original part which were installed into many of these units at the factory. The old part number is "W10195536", the new part number is "WPW10195536". (maybe the "WPW" stands for "Whirl Pool's Whoops", or signify's that the new one "Won't Piss Water" all over, or perhaps their engineer thought it "Will Probably Work". -Just guessing.) At this time, I do not know in which ways the product design has changed due to the revision, but I would bet that there is now more baffles on the inside of the part to help rectify the issue which they know exists with units manufactured in their factories prior to the revision.


    *Upon reading other appliance repair forums, many other people have experienced the exact same issue with this poorly designed water inlet port. In most cases, it seems that online technical support specialists have been advocating replacement of the part. Which some people claim does indeed rectify the issue. This further supports my theory that the part has been revised in such a way that it now has more baffles inside to prevent water and steam/condensation from escaping. Unless this part were to become plugged up from debris or sediment in the fresh water supply, there is virtually nothing that would wear out or cause it to behave differently from how it was designed. There are no moving parts or pieces inside it. It's a piece of molded plastic, water goes in one end and exits the other end. The issue with this part is not due to wear or mechanical failure but is inherent with how it was originally designed and hence produced.


    I plan to post this same information on other forums/discussion threads to help others who are dealing with kitchen cabinet damage resulting from poorly designed parts. Below are the photos of my cabinets which were newly installed at the same time as the dishwasher...which has been ruining them with every wash-load ever since. -Not because a part failed. The original parts operated exactly as they were designed to operate; very poorly. The poorly designed original parts have ruined my cabinetry and certainly thousands of others.


    Under my sink cabinet adjacent to where the unit is installed:



    Wood is completely warped and starting to mold in this area of my new cabinets and already needs to be replaced:


    Note: staining to the insulation blanket from water damage.


    Water inlet port. Original non-revised part number W10195536


    Here is a view from the inside of the dishwasher compartment. This is how my new cabinets now look. Completely warped and damaged in the area of the poorly designed water inlet port.




  • Jill P
    4 years ago

    I'm facing this now (left vent now emitting steam) on a KA dishwasher. Rep told me to get a 'vent redirect aid.' (Which KA has never heard of). Anyone had experience with this 'fix'?

  • geobrick
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    dynamitework, Great information. I didn't know they were recommending the new sound blanket with a plastic liner. I did see that newer versions of the dishwasher came with them. The latest models currently in stores seem to have a completely different design without the vent damper valve in the door or the side mounted water inlet.

    The real fix for the water damage caused by the water inlet design could be the new part number. It would be nice to find out if anyone's had some success with it.

    I just reinstalled the dishwasher after having a new cabinets and floor put in after the damage from the diverter motor seal failure (where water leaks from the bottom). I put a plastic sheet over the side with the water inlet (under the blanket) which will devert the condensed water to the floor (and now I have tile instead of wood to avoid a similar problem).

    I just reinstalled the dishwasher after having a new cabinets and floor put in after the damage from the diverter motor seal failure (where water leaks from the bottom). I put a plastic sheet over the side with the water inlet (under the blanket) which will divert the condensed water to the floor (and now I have tile instead of wood to avoid a similar problem).

    You gotta love their explanation for the cause of the water damage: "... when the dishwasher is installed into a tight cut-out". How many cut-outs are bigger than 24" wide at the face and maybe 25" behind the face. How much space did they expect back there. It was obviously not tested in real world situations.

  • Jill P
    4 years ago

    this might be info of help:


    "I have steam coming out the upper side vent on the door panel. Have had the washer for a few years. this just started and is ruining my wood cabinetry. my service repairman told me to get a 'vent redirect aid.' KA customer service has never heard of this. what advice do you have?Jill for Model Number KA dishwasher kude70fxss5
    ANSWER Jill, you will want to check to ensure that the deflector WPW10195032 on the door vent located above the dispenser is securely tightened. From there, you will want to remove the outer panel. With the outer panel removed, you will want to inspect the upper vent WPW10469574 for a worn gasket or cracked housing, and you will want to inspect the lower vent WPW10195028 for a cracked wall or loose connection. For steam to be coming out from the top one of these had to of failed. Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Tuesday, May 21, 2019"

  • HU-339058828
    4 years ago

    I have just discovered the very same problem with my dishwasher, same make and model as Angelasalinas02. our pictures could be duplicates. After a lengthy phone call to KitchenAid/Whirlpool they have attempted to blame me for the problem. They claim the unit needs more "breathing space" between the dishwasher and cabinets. Two different factory service reps have looked at the dishwasher installation this week and neither have questioned the installation of the unit as being anything less than proper. The second tech stated that the issue was clearly a defective venting design in the unit. You would think that a reputable and honest company would be willing to simply fix the problem they have to know is in their design. The dishwasher is one of four major appliances purchased from KitchenAid less than five years ago in a kitchen remodel. After today's call I would never buy another anything from that company.

  • geobrick
    3 years ago

    I filed a claim for the diverter motor seal failure that results in water leaking under the dishwasher (eventually caused the wood flooring to warp - the whole floor covering the kitchen and family room had to be replaced). I never had a cabinet face problem from steam however, there was steam damage to the inner side of the cabinet left of the dishwasher by the water inlet. See my several posts on the subject earlier in the thread. The insurance claim covered the steam damage as well (they covered rebuilding the cabinet to the left of the dishwasher). The insurance company asked me to give them the old diverter motor seal. I assume it was in case they wanted to go after kitchenAid. I assume if they had a disproportionate number of claims where whirlpool was the problem, they'd consider going after them. I don't think this was worth their trouble.


    Believe it or not, I'm still using the dishwasher. I was able to get a new diverter motor seal following advice found somewhere on the web and I draped a plastic sheet over the left side of the dishwasher (the way kitchenAid did it in later versions of this model) to protect the inner cabinet from steam. So far it's been working (for about a year. now). I'm willing to take the risk because we replaced the wood flooring with porcelain tile planks (simulating wood). But obviously I'll avoid Whirlpool brands in the future (just another appliance company added to my 'avoid in the future' list - I'm running out of brands).

  • ldacko
    3 years ago

    This was such a helpful thread. By new cabinets started cracking within a month of using our dishwasher. We made a service request but the tech told us it was bad paint on our cabinets. After reading this thread it’s clear it is indeed the dishwasher as the paint chips are right below the side door vent.

    Was anyone able to get any traction with KitchenAid for a fix or do I need to request a new dishwasher?

  • Design Girl
    3 years ago

    I was hoping this issue was fixed. My old KA has the vent at the top so that it vents onto the underside of my countertop. There's about a half inch between the top of the dishwasher door where the vent is and the underside of my counter. I'm getting ready for a kitchen remodel and researching appliances. I like the KA because if holds more. - Looks like a no now.


  • Design Girl
    3 years ago

    @missenigma - Thanks, that was very helpful. I'd rather get a KA due to larger capacity. It will be in an island, so I could make it flush as long as the vent still isn't on the side. Will check that out.

  • missenigma
    3 years ago

    @Design Girl I was in Home Depot the other day and it looks like KA moved the side vent to the front of the door. I'm not sure if that's true across the board, but for the model (KDTM404KPS) I saw that seems to be the case.




  • missenigma
    3 years ago

    I purchased my KA dishwasher (Model KDTE234GPS0) in November 2018 but didn't install it until this month, November 2020. I installed it myself and while looking up something up on the web, came across this and other Houzz threads regarding the side vent. I read everything I could regarding the side vent (and other) issues. Since I didn't have the option of returning the dishwasher I opted to install it with the following modifications. I'm sharing these in the hope that it will help someone avoid issues with cabinet damage.


    1. I have new solid red oak hardwood floors in the kitchen. I looked several tray options that could be placed under the dishwasher.. Home Depot sells this one:




    In the end I decided to just use some water resistant luxury vinyl planks I already had. Is it completely waterproof? No, but it will work for my install because the floor in the dishwasher cavity has a slight slope downward from back to front, any water that leaks will run out from under the dishwasher and I'll see the water on the floor.


    2. I opted to NOT install the dishwasher door flush with the adjoining cabinets doors and drawers. I installed it flush with the edge of the countertop. In my setup that translates into the dishwasher door being 3/4" inch proud of the cabinet doors and drawers. I'm OK with that and the vent is more exposed.


    3. To address any potential moisture issues with the dishwasher water inlet port (discussed above in this thread) I screwed a piece of scrap laminate I had to the side of the cabinet and sealed around the edges with HVAC metal tape.


    Here's what things looked like in the cavity prior to my sliding the dishwasher into place:




    Finally, I did a test run (Normal Cycle, Heated Dry) of the dishwasher and could feel very warm and moist air escaping from the vent. I took a piece of scrap laminate about 3" wide and found that it slips in quite easily between the cabinet and the rubber gasket of the dishwasher tub and the cabinet. It readily protects the cabinet from moist air coming from the vent. I'll slip this laminate in whenever I run the dishwasher.




    This might be total overkill, but it didn't take too much time. I hope this helps others.


  • Design Girl
    3 years ago

    @missenigma - Thank you for the update. I will definitely be looking into the KA. If the vent is at the top again it will make things a lot easier.

  • bts852
    2 years ago

    just replaced my KA and was agahst at what had happened to my cabinet full of blaxk mold and the side vent ruined the fjnjsh on the front of my cabinet drawer next to it

  • Jeffrey Wade
    2 years ago

    Just an FYI to add to these ongoing conversations...


    I purchased a KitchenAid Model KDTE334GPS0 in February 2019. This dishwasher vents warm, moist air via a bottom vent under the dishwasher that is located on the left side. In theory, the warm air should vent out just behind a cutout on the kickplate or trim that covers up the underside of the dishwasher.


    However, while it wasn't noticeable right away (single person running the DW just two or three times a week), the solid oak flooring in front of the dishwasher is warping, mostly in front of the left side of the dishwasher, and extends two feet in front of the dishwasher!


    I have pulled the dishwasher out twice trying to investigate for leaks. The flooring under the dishwasher is perfectly flat with no signs of water damage. There are no leaks in the under-sink cabinet where the water connection is located. I can actually see under the cabinet when the dishwasher is pulled out and can see that the flooring under the cabinet is in perfect condition.


    After reinstalling the DW for the second time, I left the kickplate (trim) off and laid out sheets of packing paper (like plain newspaper paper) to see if I could get an indication of leaks. Instead, I am seeing the paper wrinkle up from moisture, not drips, in a pattern that would indicate that the vent is the source and that the moisture fans out from that point.


    I am so frustrated. This is not a cheap dishwasher and it does a great job cleaning anything. I originally purchased this model because at 39 db it was about the quietest DW on the market at that time. Also, it had the fan dry feature like my 2003 KitchenAid did which I also really liked and which never gave me any problems for 9 years until I sold that house.


    Short of replacing it, I now run the dishwasher and disable the drying function and just open the door a bit to let everything dry naturally. #Pissed-off-in-Houston!

  • Maria Mesgar
    2 years ago

    @idacko did you ever get a resolution from KA? I’m having the same issue. I truly believe it’s the farmhouse sink lined up with the vent now that I’m seeing yours too

  • geobrick
    2 years ago

    Class Action Notice:

    Unfortunately, it only applies to the diverter motor seal (see my previous posts) and only covers a portion of the cost to repair or to replace the Dishwasher. It doesn't cover damage caused by the part failure.


    I know most people here have been having the steam problem but if, like me, you also had a leak because a failed diverter motor seal, look into applying to be part of this class action.


    I was notified by email but here's the link they provided for more information:

    https://www.whirlpooldishwashersettlement.com/


    Here's what it covers:

    "The Settlement provides for a rebate or cash reimbursement, up to $225 and subject to other limits, for documented out-of-pocket expenses to repair or replace your dishwasher's diverter motor or sump assembly, or to replace your dishwasher with a new model, due to a Diverter Seal Leak occurring within eight years of your dishwasher's date of manufacture."


    Here's what it doesn't cover:

    "The Settlement does not include personal injury or property damage claims other than for damage to the Class Dishwasher itself, and the Settlement does not release any of these claims."

  • John
    last year
    last modified: last year

    For others with this issue, I found that our fan was dead, causing steam to build up inside of the door panel, destroying the control panel (twice) and venting out the side causing cabinet damage.

    When the fan is operating correctly, it draws air from the door panel as well as from the interior of the dishwasher. When it doesn't, the two are connected since the vent is open during the drying phase - causing steam to build up.


    You can test your fan by checking its resistance, which should be around 35-40k, and by applying 5v to it. Ours passed the resistance check but failed to start with 5V applied. The fan probably dies because it's exposed to steam, especially if the drying cycle is interrupted. It is a standard 40mmx40mmx20mm 5V fan and is easily replaced.


    The factory service manual helped me diagnose:

    https://f01.justanswer.com/md20/20/5baf1e9e-6fe5-479a-b633-14612b86b7a3_TechSheet-W10455257-RevA.pdf


    Based on my experience, if you're getting steam out the side, then your fan may have failed, leading to eventual control board failure.


    Hope this helps someone.

  • geobrick
    last year

    It's been 4 years since the diverter motor seal on my KitchenAid dishwasher failed and damaged the wood floors and cabinets. At the time (see my posts way earlier in this thread), I bought a replacement seal. Now after 4 years, I see evidence the seal is starting to leak again. The $6 I spent on the part gave the dishwasher 4 more years of life. I discovered the leak because the diverter motor was making a horrible whiny squealing noise whenever it was active. When I pulled out the dishwasher, I could see evidence of a leak beginning because there were calcium deposits on and around the diverter motor (leftover after the water evaporated). There was a slight bit on the floor as well.


    I would have jumped at the chance to replace the dishwasher but...


    I've been looking for possible replacement dishwashers over the last 4 years and wanted something with real heated drying (many don't have it so they can meet energy efficiency standards). Bosch has CrystalDry that uses a natural mineral that heats up when wet but I haven't seen enough glowing reviews on the performance. Meile gets very good reviews, but they don't make a dishwasher with real heated drying. KitchenAid seems to be my only choice and I don't want to buy something from the company that destroyed our kitchen.


    So I punted. I found a new sump assembly for $155 on eBay and replaced it. Now (hopefully) I have another 4 years to decide what to buy.


    Here's a picture of the old sump assembly taken apart.