I'm sorry. I meant to post this in kitchens.

I want to put my pulls up higher on my drawers like badgergal did and others.

Here is P3370-SS. 96mm on the uppermost top cabinets.

Here is a small pantry with four doors. I want to put them on the four corners. Would it look okay?

I want to put this pull above the paneled part on the frame of the drawer. Usually it is centered in the drawer panel I guess.

If I put it higher, what about the drawers above that do not have the panel? Do I center the pull or put it higher like the paneled drawer.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have. Peke

For what it's worth, I installed knobs at the lower corners of upper cabinet doors, knobs at the upper corners of lower cabinet doors, and handles at the centers of all drawers. I do not have a drawer face as skinny as the one illustrated above.

kas

I started all of my handles even with the shaker frame.
I also put my handles in the middle of the drawers - I liked the look but function would be nicer at the top, so not so far to lean down to open the drawer - I also wanted to be sure I was on the box as well.
As you noted - badger did this - hopefully she will chime in.

Also, I just noticed you are in appliances - did you want to be in kitchens?

This post was edited by a2gemini on Mon, May 20, 13 at 21:31

Kasecki, it is worth a lot! ð I think I am doing what you did. So my upper/lower cabinets will have four handles close to each other.

A2, do you know if it messes up the drawers if the handles are not centered top to bottom and left to right on the drawers? I do not know how to explain this....not off balance...maybe it might put stress on the rails since the pulls are usually centered. I like the idea of not having to reach so low, but it might look weird since the deep drawers have a panel and the others do not.

Thanks, peke

Yes, I meant to put it in kitchens. I realized I messed up on the 2nd post.

Unless your handles are the size of SubZero handles and made of depleted uranium, it is unlikely that their weight will affect the drawer pulls no matter where they are mounted on the drawer face. Otherwise, the contents of the drawers would also have to be balanced at all times.

kas

This post was edited by kaseki on Tue, May 21, 13 at 10:18

Depleted uranium...kaseki, that's too funny! That is so my type of humor!

I was thinking a different problem. You know how if a drawer is wide and you open it off center? It sort of opens crooked? Racks the drawer? I wondered if it would do the same if the handle was up too high, but centered left to right.

This could only be a problem in my mind. ð I am a worrier. Don't want to have to move the pulls after I have drilled holes in the wrong place.

Speaking of drilling holes.....what is the best way to start. I know to measure the distance between the pull's screw holes, but then what? Are there any tricks I should know?

I remember one time someone told me to use masking tape on tile when drilling. Any tricks for oak drawer fronts and doors? Thanks, peke

Quality drawer slides properly fitted should not notice [react in an adverse way to] any high-low or right-left pulling moments appropriate for the residual friction from the ball bearings.

I used the following process for both handles and knobs (as applicable). Rockler, among perhaps others, may have some of the tooling needed.

******

You will need a spire point drill bit sized to the screw diameter.

You will need an aluminum block about an inch thick that you drill (using the same sized HSS drill, not the spire point drill) a perpendicular hole through using a drill press. Other tools exist for perpendicular hole drilling. I used this method.

Obtain a spare screw of the same thread as the handle uses. Grind one end to a point. Cut the screw so that the part attached to the pointy end is around a half inch long. You may need to use a die or careful filing to clean the threads so that the screw can easily thread into and out of the handles. (This is more of a pain for metric screw threads than English screw threads in the US due to less convenient availability of the tooling one may need.)

Put masking tape on the outside drawer face where the holes are to go. Measure like you are doing post and beam construction: Measure 22 times, cut once.

Drill one hole. (Start the hole free hand and then drill the rest of the way with the perpendicularity fixture. You will have to feel for the hole unless you are using transparent aluminum. It should be sufficient to locate the drill bit end in the hole and then push the block down against the drawer face and hold it there while drilling with the other hand. Other schemes for perpendicular drilling involving a sufficiently large drill press are not addressed here.)

Temporarily thread short pointy screw half way into one end of the handle with the pointy end out.

After drilling one hole in the drawer face, attach the handle part way using the handle hole that does not have the pointy screw in it.

Use the pointy screw tip to define the point where the spire point drill is to go at the other hole location. It may be a fraction of a mm away from your careful measurement due to variations in handle manufacture. Try to keep the handle evenly spaced from the drawer face when doing this.

Drill second hole as noted above. Remove pointy screw. Attach handle.

Be careful with the pointy screw in the handle when attached to the drawer face to not scratch the finish as you maneuver the handle around.

kas

Uhhhhhh! Brain overload! I think I will call my cabinet guy.....too much for me to do. Maybe my husband will do it.

"Measure like you are doing post and beam construction. Measure 22 times, cut once."

The contractor that put in our new ceiling beam forgot to measure past the walls. He measured from wall to wall. He didn't catch the mistake until he tried to put the beam in. It was 2' short. Nice to know even professionals mess up.

Absolutely. Measure many, cut once. GC did ours. I was amazed that they were all aligned perfectly.
I don't think it will be a problem to mount higher as long as the handle goes into the drawer box and not just the panel.

peke, just saw this post tonight. Did you get your hardware mounted yet.
On my 5 piece drawers I put the pull on the pull on the rail. The top drawers of my stacks are slab drawers. On the slab drawers, I put the pull in the same place as if there was a rail on the drawer.
I have been using my kitchen for almost 2 years now and there have been no issues with the pulls being mounted this way. The drawers open and close smoothly and easily. The pulls have remained securely attached to the drawer fronts. If you need any further info just shoot me an email.
In case you didn't see the picture of how my hardware is mounted here is a phot of it:

Badgergal, that is perfect. Thank you!

I see your spectacular tile peeking through. I love that you put it vertically. What is the name of tile and company?

I just saw it on your photo bucket pica. Century 21.