We have the 4080 and love it. The 4080 lets you keep the wire rack inside the oven when you are running in microwave combination modes. It is missing the under the floor heating element of the 4082 (and presumably the 4084)

Big concerns are warranty. Make sure you are getting a full warranty on the thing. Inspect for damage. Make sure everything is present as new, meaning the glass tray, the wire rack, the temperature probe (you get that with the 4080, not the chef model) But if you can get the price down you are getting a good deal. The ovens are solid and well-built. We love ours.

Do you think missing the floor heating element is an issue? Is that why you don't like it for pizza, perhaps?

My guess is that having a heating element in the floor is most useful for a crisp bottom crust when cooking pizza.

Just to clarify, the smaller / thinner metal wire rack in the previous 4080 model rests inside the glass tray's depression. The larger / thicker metal wire rack in newer 4084 models fits in guides along the oven sides (the same guides that the glass tray would use). So the newer metal rack is used instead of (or above) the glass tray, not within it.

OTOH, there's nothing to stop someone from using an old wire rack in a newer oven, or (I think) using a new rack in an older oven, assuming you can find the metal racks.

Finally, I'd try to find out how long this oven was a floor model, both in time (months or years) and in hours of use. The oven's manufacture date may be inside, and it may release the latter information in response to the right code; I don't know.

thanks, chac mool-
Yes, I understand about the racks. The manufacture date is 2005! The glass tray, metal tray, and boiling wand were inside of it with tags on them as well as a manual. I didn't see the roast probe so I'll ask about that. At present, it is not "hooked up". So, it's a good suggestion to find out if it was used and how long...

The newer models may well be better for pizza, 2Fishes, couldn't say. It's not a big issue around here as we have better alternatives for pizza. We use stones in the big oven for that and usually end up feeding a pretty big crowd so the extra space is needed anyway.

It sounds like the oven was never hooked up? You can tell if it has been cooked in by examining the interior. Look at the "ceiling" inside the oven cavity. Is there any staining up there from spluts from baked stuff? When you broil you will get splatters up there that will be readily apparent. If the interior is spotless then it has never been used for real cooking. It might have heated up a coffee or made popcorn as a microwave, but that's probably it. A lot of dealers just stick them in the wall and don't hook up power (it requires a 20A or better 240V circuit to run it)

To me, the issue is do all the parts come with it and does it have a warranty? I can't think of a thing that the 4080 won't do outside of the pizza thing so if you like the look and get a great price with a warranty then I would get in there and see what kind of a deal you can pull off. The oven is pretty astounding. If you can get it on the cheap you will be ahead of the game equipping your kitchen.

Thanks, mojavean! I wouldn't do much with pizza except re-heat pizzeria pizza or make a little frozen pizza but I can always do that in the regular oven too.

It looked to me like it was never used. Unless it was hooked up as a micro or just so people could "play" with buttons? I'm going to check today! On the Kitchen Forum someone said they paid about $2600 about for it new and that $1000-$1200 would be a good price. (The tag said $2360 original in store).
What's your thought on a great price that would make it worth the purchase (assuming it's complete and with warranty)....

The manufacture date is 2005 so I feel like due to that and the fact that there have been 2? Master Chef models since then is good for bargaining.

If I were in the market I would probably not balk if I could get it for 1500 so long as it had a warranty, was guaranteed fully functional and undamaged and came with all the original equipment. Start low and work your way up?

But keep in mind that I am a realllllly big fan of our oven and am comfortable with it, like the rack arrangement in it better than the newer ones, etc. You need to look at the brand new ones and decide whether the discount you are getting is enough to induce you to purchase this older floor model rather than something with no fingerprints on it.

I do wish you the best of luck whatever you decide! Have fun!.

They said it has warranty and has all pieces and has never been used.
Also said they can sell it for their net cost of $1475 (what they paid)... Think they paid that much?

Can you get that part about the warranty in writing, maybe? And for how long. Not necessarily in blood, of course, just written down on paper so it can be shown to people, if need be...

Good idea. I'll ask. I spoke to my "guy" on the phone and asked for $1200. We'll see!

For what its worth, I bought a 4080BM floor model about 15 months ago and think it is one of the best decisions I made. I absolutely love having a speed oven - even though I have never used it in combo mode with microwave. Just being able to use it as an oven, broiler or micro is a real treat and time saver.

rocketscience- Thanks! May I ask what you paid about?

Yay! I am getting it for $1200 and will ask for specifics of warranty and get it in writing : )

Nice deal! 60% off with warranty is spectacular for Miele gear. Many happy speed ovenings to ya, 2fishes.

Good on ya, LittleFishies !

Thanks for all your help!!!

OH, btw, when the oven is on (baking, lets say) do you feel the heat much when standing in front of it? Meaning, if it is in my island I wondered if I was standing in front of it prepping if that would be an issue? Otherwise, theres another under-counter spot that's possible, but in the island would probably work better for us. Also, anyone know if you can lock it while it is in use?

It exhausts out the front, is well-insulated and the breeze is more "warm" than hot, but I wouldn't put it where you know you will have to stand for long periods. It is a full-blown oven when you have it in convection or broil mode.

But you won't have to worry about coming in contact with the door and getting burned or anything; it seems to stay touchable in operation.

But there is no door lock on the oven. If you pull on the door it will turn off the heaters and/or the microwave - i.e., it is fully interlocked, electrically- but there is no locking mechanism to prevent opening the door. A couple more things:

The door interlock switches have to be adjusted properly. If you have the oven installed by Miele techs, ask them to please check the interlock adjustment once they get it installed in the cabinet recess (they should be able to do it by ear, or they may use a couple of pennies to set the spacing), actually: you should hear the switches on both top corners of the door frame click at the same time when you open and close the door. I am not talking about the latches clicking, it is a finer click, made by a pair of microswitches that make a fine, sharp, tick. If you hear a distinct "click-click" in sequence instead of a simultaneous clicking pair, then the interlock switch adjustment should probably be done.

Also, when I had to have service done on our oven, the techs performed a Miele-authorized engineering change and installed a 12A fuse in place of the existing 10A fuse that ships with the oven. This fuse is tied to the door interlocks, incidentally. The wiring of the oven (and all microwave ovens) is designed to blow that fuse any time one door interlock is closed while the other is open. The rationale is that if only one interlock is being energized and the other isn't, then the door has been damaged and the microwave may leak. The fuse blows and all the power to the oven is shut off. According to the tech, the 12A fuse (btw, this is from memory so double-check those values with the technician) prevented inadvertent over-currents and fuse-blowing from transient pulses due to the door flexing a bit on opening and closing. You know, you grab one side of the handle and pull hard and the fuse pops. So you might ask about that fuse.

BTW, just as a heads up, I had to have service because the squirrel cage exhaust fan is a multi-speed affair. The bearings for the squirrel cage got gunked up and it wouldn't spin fast enough to tell the oven to turn on the heaters. Symptom, microwave works, but neither the convection element nor the broiler element will turn on. Cause: there is an RPM COUNTER! on the fan itself. The oven is so careful to make sure that all systems are go that it checks if the blower has gone to high speed before it will send current to the heater elements! The techs can't disassemble the fan to clean and lube the bearings, they just installed a new fan. Around $280 just for the part, IIRC. I kept the old fan, disassembled it and serviced the bearings (they were just contaminated with dust and old oil) When I was done it was good as new. So, if you get out of warranty at some distant date and find that the heaters won't turn on, suspect that blower up in the top of the oven.

I know this is a lot of info, but I might as well give you the data dump now.

Best of luck with your oven. We, as I said, are really happy with ours and use it all the time.

Well, I got them down to $1,000. instead of 1200 now : )
I'm wondering if I can get a different handle? I may put in near my fridge which is the Elux Icon professional (straight handle) and thought it would be nice if they matched?

Here's mine (to be):

Miele makes several handle options for the current lineup. You will have to check with Miele to see if they will fit, but my guess is you can pick any of them, other than I would steer clear of the one that makes you replace the hinges.