Thank you for the GREAT reviews. We're just starting to research and thinking of the GE induction cooktop (because it's frameless), you've got me convinced! So glad to hear you LOVE it!

Athomesewing: Yes, I can't find anything negative to say about that GE cooktop. You won't be disappointed!

try_hard

Did you leave all the space under the induction cooktop that the install guide shows - especially the 18" shelf depth? I am thinking of the 30" GE versus the Miele 30" - both have install problems.

Would you like the bottom freezer as much if you used it every day? My plan requires either a top freezer refrigerator or a bottom freezer refrigerator because of a side wall next to it.

Margareta_Mi:

Yes, I would like the bottom freezer even if I used it every day or several times a day for ice. I have had a traditional refrigerator (top freezer), a side by side, and now this one, and this one is my favorite in terms of usable space and visibility into the refrigerator.

I did not leave as much space as the GE Profile instruction manual suggested. I called GE and also called their engineering department and tried to find someone who could talk intelligently about the clearance recommendations; specifically, what they meant by recommending that much clearance between the cooktop and combustible items. In the end, I decided to put the cooktop above some drawers but the space directly underneath the cooktop is empty - here is a picture that shows what I did:

And here is a picture of the cooktop pulled out of my counter - before I closed on my house the tile installer scratched the cooktop. I called GE and they replaced it for free (they have a great policy about replacements in the first 30 days.) So you can see how shallow the cooktop is and the fact that I have alot of space under it.

I keep pots and pans in the drawers under the cooktop. I've not noticed any problems with heat or ventilation.

Try_Hard

I don't understand why they say so much space when they will sell an oven to put under it. I was thinking of a pots and pans with the dummy top drawer also. Most drawers are not full depth anyway so there is still air flow from the bottom to the cooktop.

Margareta_mi: I may be wrong, but I think alot of people assume the space is due to heat or ventilation needs; however, I think the key part of their recommendation is the word "combustible". I remember reading a thread here last year that talked about the fact that the oven they sell to go under it is encased in a non-combustible, insulating material.

try_hard

That was a very informative post. We almost went with Electrolux Icon Double Ovens, but chose GE Monogram instead. I was worried about interior space and the electronic controls. The fingerprints would drive me nuts. Im not sure the GE will be any better, guess we'll find out.

I wish more people would post there after 1 yr experiences. Thats great info!

Try Hard;
12" to combustible surface but the 18" deep shelves or rollouts are for air circulation (except when over an oven). Weird but could cause warranty problems. It is good to know that you haven't had a problem with the cooktops internals in the year you have used it.

Great post, Try_Hard, thanks. I particularly appreciate the fact that it comes a year after install, not a week or month. One thing stood out to me as missing in your review: Your hood. Want to throw in some words about that while you're at it?

Ya_think:

The hood is a VentaHood K250HSS2. This is my first hood that really vents to the outside of the house; my previous homes had the microwave above the cooktop with no exterior ventilation. I opted for exterior ventilation at my brother's recommendation; however, I've since discovered that the kind of cooking I do doesn't require high-powered ventilation. I use it maybe once a month.

All this being said, it does seem to be effective at sucking up the steam. I need to take it apart and clean the fan area, now that I think about it. And I find this to be more aesthetically pleasing than the less expensive options.

Would I put it in my next house? Probably, because its size and appearance appeal to me. My choice would be based on looks, not the need for serious ventilation.

try_hard

Wow, thanks for a great post! Our plans call for the same refrigerator and dishwasher. Glad to hear you love the fridge so much! I was a little nervous about giving up the ice/water in the door, but due to a perpendicular cabinet, this is the only style fridge that will work for our new layout. Sounds like it will work out to be an imporovement all around.

Your review of your cooktop has definitely intrigued me and even my "die hard gas husband". We don't know anything about induction cooking, but have had both traditional electric and gas, and prefer gas. I, too have researched and read endless threads, reviews, etc trying to find the right cooktop for us. Do I even want to open the induction can of worms?? I think I'll just pretend I didn't read your review on the cooktop :)

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'm done with all my appliance decisions (for now), but I know I would have appreciated this post while doing my research.

Try Hard,

Great post.

Someone was recently talking about some kind of wax to keep fingerprints off stainless. I'm wondering if there's something that will smudge shield your oven glass? Something that doesn't mind heat, of course...

Nice input!! Since I have had mine installed since Thanksgiving of 2006, I will add my 2 cents--errr I mean "2 years"
Like "Try_Hard's, we went with the Electrolux Convection oven as well as their Speed oven. A slightly different take on the finger prints, not really been a problem on either, alto there are only 2 of us. Our old kitchen had a diswasher with a stainless steel door and boy was that a pain to keep clean, tried all kinds of SS steel cleaners and still had spots--finally found car polish worked the best. The SS on the Electrolux unit seems more slipery and hence easy to clean--just a damp cloth does it. Both have been trouble Free, easy to use, and we like the fact that only a blue clock shows on the convection oven and a white one on the Speed oven, until you touch the panels to lite them up. One thing that Electrolux advertised was "The coolest oven door in the industry(outside) and it does indeed stay very cool so glass easy to clean & SS.
The 48 inch Built in and paneled Jenn-air Fridge has been trouble free, We specifically designed the kitchen to accept a 48" Fridge, and luv it and would do it again.
We bought the Miele Optima Diswasher and luv it , especially the siverware tray up on top, less bending over and at 66 years---every little bit helps!!
Our big mistake was the cooktop, I didn't do my research, and I bought it mainly because of it's unique curved design.It started giving problems right away, the touch controls were extremely sensitive to any foregin matter, grease, U name it, and after 2 years we had to replace it as it became completely unusable and the error msgs and the beeping drove the wife nuts!! Since then we have replaced it with an Electrolux Icon 30" induction---and this one exceeds even our wildest expectations---absolutely love it--but as we have only had it for one month we can't offer any reliability data---as far as personal experience goes---I can say, when I looked it up on Consumer Reports , it was rated as #1.
So to sume it up, We would buy again, exaactly what we have now, have not seen anything , at any price, that we would desire more than what we have now.

Gary

Dodge: What was the first cooktop you had - that you replaced?

Also, my Electrolux oven door is dirty and I can't get it to come clean. Someone put fish in the oven with too much olive oil on it and the oil popped and splattered all over the interior of the oven, including the glass door, and I can't get it clean. Any suggestions on cleaning the interior glass?

Thanks,
Try_Hard

The curved cooktop was made by a company in Vermont, called Caldera. It was the only curved one on the market, and as you proably know, I have curved granite, curved doors, etc etc--so it seemed like a perfect fit. Let me experiment a bit on cleaning my oven glass, I have a cleaner called awsum, I will try it and I will give you a full report.
After reading all the posts about ovens that quit working after self cleaning---alto none were electrolux---I'm still kinda scared to do it----Ya know what I mean?

Gary

Thanks for your posts Try-Hard and dodge1959! We recently purchased a 30" GE Induction rimless cooktop that has been sitting in our living room (along with the new cookware) anxiously awaiting the installation of our new counters, which will take place this week! I'm SO excited! I've been cooking on gas my whole life, and my husband likes the smooth look of the glass cooktop so after some research here and on the induction website, we decided on the GE induction. Can't wait to try it out!
Sue

Congradulations on your induction purchase. The cooktop never ceases to amaze me. Everybody that comes over, I put on the "Magic Show" for them. Sit a paper towel down on one of the burners, take a pan add a little less than a cup of water, turn the thing to "Boost", and they are amazed when the water starts boiling in well under a minute and the paper doesnt burn up. In fact if I dont leave the pan on too long, I can turn off the burner and rest my hand right on it---but be careful, U leave it on too long , the pan will heat the burner, er Induction unit I mean, and you will "Blow the whole show" trying to cool your hand!!!! We normally dont turn the cooktop more than halfway up when we use it---as even then it is very fast, an at my age I could forget to turn it down.
Wife just luvs cooking on it----veggies we normally threw in speed oven, now we saute on the cooktop---probably eventually get lazy and throw them back in the speed oven, but right now we really having fun.

Gary

Warm water with baking soda and a soft brush, also you could soak with lemon juice

Thanks, Guadalupe. I'll give that a shot.

try_hard

Thanks Try_Hard for a great informative post. Also, you have a beautiful kitchen!

I tried the Awsome cleaner it worked pretty good, alto I had to do it half a dozen times or so, as there was quite a lot of grease on the door---so I would try Guadalupe's suggestion. I called Electrolux to find out how to remove that inside glass, in case I ever want to clean the inside---supposedly--just remove a black phillips screw at the left and right--at the bottom of the door and the little square brackets that hold the glass should come off and allow you to slide the glass out---however--after removing these screws, I still couldnt remove those *%^@#brackets---maybe they are greased on? I sent them email and will keep you posted. I have seen other post by ppl that want to clean the inside of that glass. Mine isnt that bad so didnt wanna force things and break something.

Gary

Gary - Yes, please do let me know what you ultimately find out from Electrolux about removing that door. One of these days I may need to do that.

try_hard

Hey Try_Hard - thanks for your excellent posts! I'm new to this forum and in the process of renovating my kitchen. I purchased a GE Profile 30" induction cooktop, thinking I'd done my homework. Then I discovered the clearance issues. Many induction cooktops (KitchenAid, Bosch) look strangely similar to the GE (burner layout, etc.) but don't seem to have the same clearance requirements. Regardless, my question to you as an owner is, how hot does it get underneath? Do you have any way of checking? I'd hoped to use an induction cooktop in a situation with very shallow clearance underneath. I've run 21 years with my old Inglis solid burner cooktop essentially snug to the drawer of utensils beneath it with never a hint of problems. I was surprised to learn of heat issues on the underside of induction cooktops. I haven't installed it yet so its not too late to change to a different solution. Appreciate any thoughts - thanks.

Nschloss: I am out of town on a business trip so I can't conduct an experiment for you tonight but I'd be happy to post about that later this week. To date I have not noticed any heat in the area surrounding the cooktop.

So check back this weekend and I will have posted the results of using the cooktop and then sticking my hand up into the cabinet under the cooktop to see if I detect any heat.

try_hard

Thanks Try_hard - it's good of you to offer - I look forward to your results! I'm thinking for GE to warn of combustible materials within 12" underneath, that would have to get super hot - I would think the cabinet structure close to the cooktop would also be at risk!

nschloss: I'm back at home and tonight had to boil some water for pasta. I stuck my arm into the drawer under the cooktop and reached up to the bottom of the cooktop. No heat was coming off of it at all. Not sure what would happen if I was simmering something for several hours...

try_hard

Thanks for the effort try_hard - I had my suspicions that this would be the case. I'm guessing GE is being overly cautious.

DLSpellman - if you're reading this could you please comment on your installation clearance solution - I couldn't find any details in my search - thanks!

Try_hard, thank you for the thoughtful post.

I am going to install an induction cooktop in my remodeled kitchen too, and I have been considering the 30-inch models: GE PHP900 and Miele KM5753. I was inclining more towards the Miele when I saw your post. Now I am wondering what the higher-priced Miele buys me. The GE model is $1679, while the Miele is $2249. Is the $570 difference for anything other than the stainless trim, the power boosters, and the European brand name? I am not sure I will need the power booster, and I don't particularly care one way or another about the other two features. In your research, did you find anything to suggest that the higher priced Miele is a better alternative?

smallkitchen

The GE has boost also.

Smallkitchen: I did not even consider the Miele because that brand was not available through the local appliance dealer I wanted to use. I looked at a few models that were more expensive than GE (Thermador, Wolf) but did not like them better than the GE. I also looked at the Electrolux which cost less than GE but I didn't want the stainless frame. I was insistent upon a frameless cooktop. If I recall correctly, I did not like the Wolf because it had knob controls instead of touch sensor controls, but it's been over a year so I might be confusing cooktops...

try_hard

The Miele has timers that will actually turn off the burners. Neat feature but the thing isn't flush like the GE. It might have more power. The GE looks great installed (I think anything would look good in Try hard's lovely kitchen though).

The Viking is the one with the knobs. It also has a giant frame. It makes my 1980s Kenmore induction cooktop look sleek and modern. It's a real dog. The Wolf has some nice features--it looks fingerprint-proof and has a unique layout--but nothing I can find to justify the price.

Thanks for the review, Try Hard!

Fori - thank you for the compliment on my kitchen. :-)

try_hard

NSCHLOSS -
I installed (18 months ago) similar to the pictures above, EXCEPT I went one step further. Where she has the blank panel above the two drawers, I had my cabinet maker do a third drawer there. It was tight, and we weren't sure if it would end up being a fake drawer or a working drawer until we did the actual install. But, I really wanted a utensil drawer there if at all possible. And I got one... when you pull the drawer open, the actual drawer behind it is only 2" or so deep, the front makes it look like the normal 6-7" deep. Just deep enough to put non-combustible turners, tongs, large spoons, etc. for cooking. I don't keep rubber scrapers or even wooden spoons in there just to be safe.

So, hows this been working in reality? I would defintely still do it for the handiness of having the utensils there. Every once in a great while, the jumbled utensils catch briefly beneath - but a quick jiggle and that addresses that. And sometimes, when I have three burners or more going, I will open up this drawer to aid in ventilation - not that it needs it necessarily - but, just to be cautious. It never seems to get very hot beneath the cooktop. Other than that, it's perfect. I'd definitely do it again...

Although, I will caution - should you have a problem with the cooktop within the warranty period, I suppose they could argue that you have an improper install and deny any warranty claim....I decided to take that risk.

Hope this helps you....

We are redoing our kitchen, and have refrigerator requirements similar to yours. One thing that concerns us is the ability to open the refrigerator door beyond 90 degrees, and to do that we thought we'd have to have a left-hinged door, because the right side of our refrigerator will be next to a wall adjacent to a door opening. I notice that you chose to put the hinge on the side that abuts the wall next to the door opening, the opposite of what we think we have to do.

Can you open your door beyond 90 degrees? How much clearance is there between the left side of your refrigerator and that wall?

I asked an appliance salesman if I could put the KitchenAid as close to the wall as the specifications suggest and he said I could use the refrigerator but I would not be able to pull the crispers completely out to wash them in the sink unless I could open them more than the minimum.

How deep is your sidewall? I notice that try_hard's sidewall is not that deep so I believe try_hard can open the door more than 90 degrees even if it is necessary to pull the refrigerator forward a little to do so. My sidewall is 51" deep so I decided not to put the refrigerator against the wall. I did think of putting the door on the wrong side because I have lived with an arrangement like that for over 20 years and it hasn't bothered me but I live alone and am never pulling much out of the refrigerator at one time. YMMV.

Our sidewall is about 32-1/2 inches.

Since posting I found a Kitchen Aid counter depth refrigerator in a French door configuration with larger capacity that works great for us. Even with doors open only 90 degrees, all of the drawers extend fully.

Our counters are finally in and after everyone's helpful input, I've installed my 30" GE Induction cooktop. We love the look and are taking the risk of running it with shallow drawers underneath (thanks dlspellman for advice). Unfortunately we may have to return it right away - the control lock and timer have not functioned at all. All the burners do however. We are somewhat disappointed by the amount of hum at high power settings but don't leave it there long. Hopefully a new one will work 100%!

I read with interest about the depth requirement of the drawer below an induction cooktop. The question seems to be why would there be so much heat below the cooktop. After all, heat will rise, not fall.

I wonder if the problem is that items in a drawer will get hot because of the induction system...just like the pans and pots on top of the oven get hot. That is, metal items under the cooktop are also somewhat affected by the induction system. I can imagine that the designers might direct the inductive coupling to items close to the top surface, and some magnetic shielding might be applied to the lower surface of the cooktop, but there is only so much an engineer can to to make this a unidirectional inductive coupling.

This is all a guess on my part. If someone knows otherwise, please respond.

mrtimewise -
I'm the rebel who put my utensils directly below the induction cooktop. The metal utensils definitely are not getting hot from the magnetic forces. Like I said above, sometimes, more from paranoia about breaking the rules than anything, I pull the drawer open if I have multiple (3+) burners going to aid in ventilation. And it's a little warm in there - more stuffy warm - not dangerous warm.

I think the manufacturers were just being super cautious from a fire stand point....

Wow, GORGEOUS GORGEOUS kitchen you've created, Try_Hard! All I can say is WOW! It looks like a showroom.

Would you mind answering a couple of questions about your cooktop?

- You mentioned that it's very easy to clean. Do you find that you have to be very careful about not slide pots and pans (especially the big heavy ones) across the cooktop? Does that shiny black surface show every smudge and fingerprint? In the 1+ year that you've had yours, have you noticed any micro-scratches that have developed?

- Did you have any issues with flush-mounting it into the granite? (I'm so afraid that it'll look terrible if it's not done perfectly.) Do crumbs and gunk get into the junction of the granite/cooktop?

Thanks so much!

I've had the same cooktop for 18 months... And it is a breeze to clean. Just wipe off after each use (and if you have a boil over while cooking, the cooktop/burner is cool enought to just pick up the pan and wipe most of the mess off right then). Then after wiping down during cleanup, keep a clean microfiber cloth near by to do a light buff to remove the streaks (start the buffing while a bit damp). A total of about two minutes. SO EASY. Otherwise, it is a bit streaky from the dirty dishcloth...Haven't noticed fingerprints much.

As for scratches, I use some of my old antique cast iron skillets and griddles on it frequently. I wouldn't say I baby it, but, I am somewhat careful to not slide them about carelessly. To date, not a single scratch, micro or otherwise.

As for mounting it, it is not perfectly flush - it is about an 1/8 - 1/4" (whatever the thickness of the glass is)above the counter. I have black counters, black cooktop and Occasionally, a crumb works it's way under the lip of the cooktop...then I just run a toothpick around to quickly clean it out - again, not a frequent occurrence or a big deal to clean.

Mine still looks brand new...I love it!

Try-hard, what model kitchen cabinets did you use? Thanks!