Patrick,
Thanks for the oven info. The oven in my old electric stove works perfectly, so I've been nervous about buying a new range just to get an induction top but potentially ending up with a problem oven. You've reassured me. :-)

I too would like to understand why you can't put a 5 3/4" pan on an 8" hob? Does the user guide mention this limitation?

I have separate elux cooktop and double wall ovens. I hated the look of the Kenmore model that I decided I wouldn't wait to see what the Elux line range looked like. Too bad as I think I'd like it, but I like having the separate units too - and I wanted white . . .

But back to the important part. The cooktop (I assume the range is the same) has hobs with a min and a max pan size.

You can see the two rings on each hob. If you go smaller than the inner ring, the hob will not turn on (the indicator flashes when you try to set it). If the pan is not sitting flat this can happen too.

Manual says you should not go larger than 1/2 from outer ring (meaning pan is 1" larger in diameter.

My understanding of the "sensing" is that the unit will pick one of the two sizes to use, the inner or the full circle.

Here are the sizes on mine. You can add 1" to the outer measure to get the MAX size pan recommended.

Small back - 5" inner, 5-3/4" outer
Medium back 5-3/4" inner, 7" outer
Medium front 7-1/4" inner, 8-1/4" outer
Large front 7-1/4" inner, 10-1/2" outer

Based on that, I should be able to use any flat bottomed magnetic pan that is between 5" and 11-1/2" diameter. My husband's pan was just under 5" and the unit would not turn on.

I'm going to go experiment with boiling water and see if I can tell how it works. I want to know if it is better to use the big hob with a 9" pan, or better with the 8-1/4" one. If the big one only heats at the 7-1/4" circle for a 9" pan then it would be better to put that pan on the smaller front hob - I'll let you know what I discover.

Cathy

Cathy,
The hob configuration and sizes of the range are different than your cooktop.
http://www.electroluxappliances.com/kitchen-appliances/ranges/induction

Patrick,
I'm surprised to learn that your smaller pans won't work. From the E'lux website: ''Surface Sensors...These sensors automatically detect the presence of magnetic cookware, activate the induction field and adjust it to the exact size of the pan.'' You might want to check with E'lux customer service about this...maybe something isn't calibrated properly???

It will be interesting to hear what Patrick has to say about the two rings on his cooktop. The website doesn't have all that good of information - need to see the actual manual. I really do like the look of the range - not trying to dis it or anything, I've only had my induction cooktop installed for a few weeks and love learning more about it.

I did some testing on mine and here is what I found.

On the 10" hob, it would not sense my 5" pan. It would work with the 6" pan even though the manual says the minimum size is 7-1/4". It heated the entire pan for any size between the 6" and my biggest pan - 9-1/2"

The 8" hub worked on my 5" pan and up. With my biggest pan, you could tell that it was not heating the entire pan surface (not out to the very edge).

The 5" hub would work with my biggest pan, and it was very easy to see that only the area marked on the outer circle was providing power.

Now I want to see if I can figure something out to determine if the entire circle is "energizing" or just that directly under the pan - Dh is going to see if he has any magnetic washers in the shop.

While I was doing this my college age daughter called and asked me what I was doing - I told her watching water boil. She said I need to get out more.

Cathy

Ok, for my last experiment I put the 5" pot on the 8" hub and put a washer inside the circle. I spread a small amount of butter on the washer - the washer heated up too so when the hob sensed a pan, it turned on the field under the whole area, not just that of the pan.

I did it with the washer half over the outer line. Only the butter that was inside the outer line by about a 1/2" started to melt.

I have no idea how the Range may work, but it is good to know that with mine, if it turns on it would excite any metallic metal object within the outer circle.

just got my induction range yesterday. the control panel does not respond at all for the burners. cant use it at all. the store was closed today so i will call tomorrow. so disappointed.

I had read of the auto size recognition too before buying, and am surprised about some of the lack of compatibility that I have experienced. I wasn't expecting this to be an issue.

The manual states, "PAN SIZE DETECTION - The pan recognition sensor automatically detects and adapts the Cooking Zones to the pan sizes in use." On another page it reads, "MINIMUM PAN SIZE REQUIREMENTS - USE THE CORRECT SIZE COOKWARE - The Cooking Zones available on the Induction Cooktop require a MINIMUM pan size to be used at each location. The inner ring of each Cooking Zone is your guide to the correct MINIMUM pan size. The pan bottom must FULLY cover the inner ring for proper cooking to occur." So, I guess you could say that it adapts to the exact size of the pan, with-in a somewhat narrow margin. A little deceptive?

The inner ring (minimum) on both the 8" & 10" front elements is 7 1/4." On the smaller back elements the inner rings are 5 3/4" & 5."

I did my own experiment with my 5 3/4" pan, each time using 1 cup of room temp water in the cold pan. The back 6" (smallest) element brought it to a boil fastest, at 1 minuet. The 7" took about 2 minuets. The 8" unit sort of worked in a "half baked" fashion. It did heat, but at a diminished capacity. It took a whopping 3 minuets to bring 1 cup to a boil. So, the lowest power cooking zone heated the fastest for my small pan. Obviously, matching up size is more important than power potential of any zone. The 10" zone would not go on at all with the small pan. Even though I did get the 8" zone to sort of work at a slow rate with my small pan, I would not feel comfortable using it this way. The pan is well under what they are telling me is the minimum. Electrolux really needs to have a smaller hub up front, or better yet, a switchable one that can accommodate both large & small pans.

Regarding the noise. I have found that the range is pretty to very quite. I have only noticed a slight buzz from the induction units. I think that there is a fan running. However, I can hardly hear it. The single hub portable induction unit I had used earlier was much noisier. The fan was loud. When heating is was much louder than this range. Sometimes the sound coming from the portable was akin to fingernails on a chalkboard!

Yes, I think that is deceptive.

It also explains why they changed their c*oktops to substitute a smaller 8" element for the 10". It's a more common size.

I agree their marketing department is excellent at going right up to the point of mis-stating the capability of thier induction cooktops without out-right lying about them. They must have employed some out of work politicians.

I have the E'Lux Icon induction (the new model) with "infinite" cooktop technology (in fact some of the pics I see actually says "infitite" right on the surface, mine does not). Infinite as long as you stay within the finite pot range. Not exactly infitinte. Oh and wait until they start to market zoneless cooktops, then thier marketers will be working overtime telling you they are 'zoneless' as long as you are within one of three zones. Oh well..

Cathy, Patrick,

When I was testing my cooktop I used different sized pans on all the elements. I now have it disconnected because I'm demolishing the backsplash, but I too noticed that the smaller pan on the larger burner did work, but it heated water more slowly. Matching the pan size gives you the best performance. But my smaller pans did work on the 10" element. I expect we will use the 10" element mostly with our 3qt saute pan (9" on the base) and 12" griddle (9" base). These don't need high heat. The other front element is perfect for boiling water and had excellent performance with my 3qt pot. I think with the smaller pot on the larger pan the pan interfaces with less of the element meaning the power density is reduced. I think as long as the cooktop recognizes the pan and heats it, it is not a safety issue. It will however give you less performance. So even if e-lux says don't use a pan less than X or more than Y size, as long as the cooktop works with it it will be okay, maybe not optimal. What you DON'T want to do is to bridge a pan across from the left to right side elements. These are on different inverters and that may cause an issue. Front to back seems okay. I don't have anything that large.

I can't remember if Electrolux used the word "Infinite" to describe the induction units on this range or not. Even if the controls were continuously variable rotary knobs, the work "Infinite" would be deceptive if used by any Range maker. If it was "infinite," you could set it for thousands of degrees, right?

I have been very pleased with the heat control on the Electolux. With 23 setting for each hob, I have not felt the need for any more, or in between settings. They seem to have gotten that just about right. I actually prefer exact settings as opposed to variable, as long as there are enough of them. I like touch controls.

I am old enough to remember when most electric ranges had a whopping 5 heat settings! A few of the more deluxe ranges had 7 or even 9. When you get to 9, at least your getting close to realistic. I loved the old GE Push-Button Ranges. My grandmother had one. Hers had a large (8") element that could be lowered inside the range. A special large pot came with the range that fit right into that recessed well with that lowered element. So you would have this huge, deep pot, with not much more than the lid showing above the stove top. I think the main purpose of this was to deep fry. My aunt also had a little more "modern" GE Push-Button Range called The Americana. It was very cool. As I recall, there were two ovens, one above the cook top, and one below. This was before Microwaves. One 8" & the two 6" elements had the standard GE 5 Push Button heat settings. The other 8" at the front of the range had a continuously variable control for the heat settings, with push buttons to select how much of the 8" element would heat, 4," 6," or 8."

Electrolux could learn something from history here. I would be in seventh heaven if they had made that 10" hob selectable with 3 realistic sizes, either automatic or user controlled.

My Maternal Grandparents had GE pushbutton ranges , like you describe. The really neat thing I found as a kid was each pushbutton lit in a different colour when you pushed them, seems like the bulbs burned out a lot thou.
Apparently the Elux range is not quite the same as their induction Icon cooktops, as I had posted before, that I took my smallest pot, 5 inches, and put it on the largest burner, which is either 10 or 11 inches, and the pot was recognized and heated, alto I didnt time it.
When Mojavean and I had the water boiling contest, I used the largest burner, and the largest pot I had, which was still smaller that the outside ring of the hub. It took 4 mins and 30 seconds to boil 2 quarts (8 cups) of water.
I guess we cant really use the experiences we have on the Elux cooktops to "Guestimate" what the Elux range will do, as there does seem to be a difference?
Good luck with yours! Hope you enjoy it as much as we have our cooktop!

Gary

Patrick,
I used to have one of the ranges with the recessed pot and it was supposed to be for deep frying although we rarely used it. I think mine was a Hotpoint or Frigidaire? (It was many years ago.) I wonder if this wasn't a common feature in the 50's or so.

I think that the Deep Fryer was pretty common on both the GE and maybe Hot Point too. Incidentally, Hot Point was made by General Electric. Grandma's was a 36" wide range. I think it had two side by side ovens. They were pretty common back then. Today most ranges are 30" wide, unless you go commercial. I can see the convenience of having most of the tall pot below the surface level. That way, it wasn't covering up the controls on the back splash. Probably easier to use too.

Gary (dodge59),
My all time favorite cars are those of the "Forward Look" made by Chrysler Corporation in the 50's & 60's. I'd give my eye teeth to have a 1959 or 1960 Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto, Chrysler, or Imperial. That's when as a kid, I fell in love with Push-Button Controls. Chrysler used Push-Button Controls on almost all of their Automatic Transmissions from 1956 thru 1964. They were reliable and worked great. The only reason that Chrysler dropped them was that Big Brother, the government, stuck its nose into the auto industry. Hmm, History repeats itself!

I have put up a lot of videos on UTube of our 50's cars cruising the freeways, If you can't find them holler, and I will post a link.

Gary

This is getting way off topic, but those Chrysler Corp push button transmissions were not that reliable. Mom had a '60 Plymouth passed on to her by my grandfather (who was h*ll on transmissions of any description).

Anyway, the whole push button mechanism was made of plastic gears & at some point in the car's life they had a habit of jumping off the track. Mom always had a small screwdriver handy so she could take off the coverplate & pop the gears back. This usually happened in reverse, but we lived where there was mostly parallel parking, so reverse was very important. ;^)

More on topic - what I'm gathering out of this discussion is that there is quite a bit of "pan jockeying" that needs to be done with these ranges. Also, larger pans seem to be problematic. I do use a 12" pan and 12" Dutch oven on a regular basis. Would I have issues with most induction ranges/cooktops?

Thanks - Jo Ann

Off topic too, but just the "Facts". Had 57 Desoto with Push buttons back in early 60's. Never had a problem with pushbuttons. I have had my 59 Convertible for over 5 years now and No problems, There are no gears in the pushbutton assembly, and it is all metal except for the pushbutton and their shafts, which are plastic but a pretty tuff plastic. These move a metal plate that in turn, moves a cable (Metal), in/out to select the proper gear, the same type cable that would be hooked to a floor shifter. I use the pushbuttons a lot as I like to shift the tranny like a manual---I push the 1 button, let the engine wind up tight, then push 2 button, wind up the engine then push 3.
I have a friend with more than a half dozen of these cars and He has had no probs, either. Sorry to hear about your (or your Mom's) experiences.

Gary

OK, Uncle! I was a kid & all I know is that it was a Plymouth circa 1960, had a pushbutton transmission & at least once a week when we tried to park it wouldn't go in reverse, so Mom pulled out the screwdriver & dinked around where the push buttons were & it worked.

Perhaps, I imagined the gears or conflated it with some other memory. I did a quick google search and found a picture of these gears that were part of a Valiant TorqueFlite:

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1399788}}

I'ii start a diff thead called off topic so I dont steps on the Elux, also I'm curious to see what was the problem with the dead elux.

Gary

was on the phone with electrolux this afternoon as well as the store that i purchased it from. seems there was a bit of different opinion as to what should be done. a service repair is coming on friday....NOT HAPPY.

"I can't remember if Electrolux used the word "Infinite" to describe the induction units on this range or not. Even if the controls were continuously variable rotary knobs, the work "Infinite" would be deceptive if used by any Range maker. If it was "infinite," you could set it for thousands of degrees, right?"

In a mathematical sense, there are an infinite number of settings between 0 and 10. There are an infinite number of sizes between 6" and 10". And infinite number of settings or sizes does not mean infinite power or size.

And Elux marketing is jerking us around. I looked at my Cooktek manual and there is no mention at all to either minimum or maximum pot sizes for my Apogee unit. I don't think they care.

Sorry about my misunderstanding the meaning of the word "Infinite." Guess I am not as smart as I thought I was. Sorry too if I was out of line by going off topic.

My range produced a perfectly baked German Chocolate Cake today. It did have a little human help too. Still haven't tried the lower oven yet. Will report back when I do try it.

iriswilson,
Good Luck with your Range. I will be interested to know how the service call goes.

Jo-ann,

Pan size is what drove me to bypass the normal e'lux induction cooktop. The new version of that cooktop reduced the 10" element to an 8" so now there are two 8" elements. With most induction cooktops telling owners not to go more than 1/2" past the max pot size, e'lux is telling users that a 9" pot is maxing out the unit with perfect alignment needed. The size they are referring to is the part that comes in contact with the element, not the overall size. My 12.5" griddle has a 9" base.

So I went with the Icon because they still have the 10" element as do just about all of E'lux competitors. I don't know what they were thinking. I actually wrote to E-lux and asked them.. I didn't really get a response.

I hope your experience with the Electrolux slide in induction range is better than my experience with the Kenmore induction range made by Electrolux. So far, the oven liner was replaced. Just this morning all the electronics for the stove-top were replaced. I've had this Kenmore induction stove since July and feel that it is just cheaply made.

Patrick, I would appreciate hearing from you regarding installation of your range. See my post over last couple of days. Do you have a picture of range installed that you could attach? I am especially interested in the lip area where top sides of range meet counter/cabinet. What type of countertop do you have? Does your range go all the way back so top side stop of range even with cabinet. What is the measurement from back of range rim to back wall? I would appreciate your help. Thanks as I have the same range. By the way, mine had some scrates on the rim that weren't deep, but noticeable.

Rickc,

I was lucky that my counter edges are squared off, not rounded. Mine fits very well. I think you will need to make an alteration. I believe that the link that I have tried to attach, will get you the information on installation. If this does not work for you, ask Electrolux to email installation instructions to you. Here is an excerpt from it:

Countertop Preparation
For detailed preparation instructions, refer to installation guide on the web.
 Flat square-finish (flat) countertop requires no preparation since rangetop
flange lays directly on countertop edge.
 Formed front-edged countertops require front molded edge to be shaved
flat 3/4" from each front corner of opening.
 Tile countertops may need cut back 3/4" from each front corner of
opening and/ or rounded edge flattened.
 For existing cutout width greater than 30-1/16" reduce the 3/4" overlap
dimension or for cutout width of 29", replace actual side trim panels with
smaller side trim panels, available with optional Side Trim Kit (refer to
detailed kit installation instructions).

I replaced a free standing range with the slide-in Electrolux. So, I need to fill in the gap at the back of the range. I am getting an estimate from the people who put in our counters. Lowes told me they could make what I need to fill in the gap for around $100. using my measurements. If they come out to measure, it would be about $75. more.

I have tried to attach 3 pictures, but don't quite know how to do same here. Not sure they will show up, or how you can download them. Good Luck!

/Users/patrickobrien/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2010/Roll 319/IMG_5185.JPG

/Users/patrickobrien/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2010/Roll 319/IMG_5186.JPG

/Users/patrickobrien/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Roll 316/IMG_5169.JPG

Here is a link that might be useful: Electrolux Range Installation

If you're going to point to your own website, the URL link needs to be complete, ie http:// whatever.com/whatever

That's not a website; it's patrick's iphoto library on his computer.

patrick 808, to display pictures here, you'll have to upload them to a website someplace, and then link to them there.

OK -So I am awaiting delivery of my Electrolux slide in induction range and haven't bought my replacement pots and pans yet. Based upon the comments about cooktop size limitations what is the best way to go in purchasing pots and pans for optimum use of the cooktop?

Take along a ruler and a magnet. Nothing larger than 11" or smaller than 5-3/4". Or thereabouts.

I bought a set of Stone Ware pots & pans. They have a few layers of material on the bottom, and are induction compliant. I bought these new on eBay a while back. They were very inexpensive. So far, I love them. They worked great on my former Radiant Range, and the Portable Induction unit I used to test out induction, before deciding to make the big purchase. They are non stick, yet don't seem to have any coating on them to wear off. Like I have said before, my favorite pan is the 2 quart. Only problem with it now is that it is confined to the back of the stove. It could be that pricey stainless steel would work better. But, I haven't had any complaints with the inexpensive Stone Ware. Mine is marketed by StoneLine, and is made in Germany.

Here is a link that might be useful: StoneLine Cookware

patrick -- I have the Kenmore induction range with similar burner restrictions. I only use my 2 quart saucepan on the back burner although I did try in on the smaller front burner and it did work.

I actually love having the two large burners in the front. On my range I can cook bacon in my 12" skillet and eggs in my 10" skillet both in the front on the stove.

My 2 quart saucepan is the only pan I own that "has" to be used on a back burner.

macybaby -- I had to laugh at "Nothing boils over quite like cocoa wheats." I used to make them in the mw and can't tell you how many times I have to remove the mw tray, soak it and wash it because of boil-overs. I was so glad when my 7 year old was off her cocoa wheats kick.

beachlilly -- sorry to hear about your Kenmore stove. What precipitated them replacing all the electronics? How is the oven liner holding up?

Patrick - Thanks for trying to post pictures. I sent you an email message with my email address. I really would like to see pictures of your range installed, especially around front if you could please send pictures through to my email. If this is something you don'g feel comfortable doing, it is farily easy to upload pictures to someplace like flicker. Easy to create account and is is free for certain number of pictures. Then post link to where pictures are on that site. The granite installer is coming back on Thursday, so I am anxious to see pictures. Thanks, Rick

Stir, the electronics were replaced because one of the hobs was no longer performing as it should. The 10" would take 5 min. to bring water to a low boil, and would never reach a rolling boil. Sears repair(?) people replaced that hob but it didn't improve the performance. After the new electronics, however, if the full 10" hob is used the power is fine, but if an 8" pan is set on the center of that hob, the power is greatly reduced, the water won't reach a rolling boil, and no power burst is available. The repairman knew this when he left. He just didn't know what to do to fix it.

The replacement oven liner is better than the first one, but it is still flaking, just not as much.

I don't know what I'm going to do. I've got gardening that needs to be done, and fighting with Sears will come later.

I've been slow to check back, occupied in other venues, and I see that a few of you have beat me to it. From what you are saying, I'm not sorry not to be the test case. We've been told we will receive ours on Friday, and I'm hoping that the delivery frustrations and runaround we've experienced will be the extent of our woes. Not likely, I'm sure, but I do appreciate the heads-up. At the very least, we will have to call it a hefty learning curve/trial and error. I'll add my .02 whenever I have a chance to try it out.

iriswilson, so sorry to hear that yours is not working. I hope your service call solves the problem.

beachlily, I hope you get it figured out to your satisfaction. I have gotten the feeling that once they had our money, the appliance store was less concerned about getting back to us to keep us informed. At least they are willing to bring us a loaner if we have any issues. Have you asked Sears about doing that?

beachlilly -- I would ask them for a new stove. My first Kenmore kept throwing fault codes ten days after installation. I couldn't get it to stop and the repairman said the same thing (we need to replace all the computer boards) when in reality he had no clue what the problem was. I went to see my salesman and asked for a new stove. Had a new one two days later. That was six months ago and so far so good.

PS: I have seen a few Kenmore induction slide-ins pop up on the Sears Outlet websites now. Funny enough, they want more for the "refurbished" ones that I paid for my brand new one.

I've had the Ken.more slide-in induction range since November and, so far, it's working satisfactorily. So far.

The only thing I don't like is setting off the control panel when I clea.n it with a warm well-squeezed-out soapy sponge. Nothing else really removes cooking greases, not even Win.dex (which smears grease around in a lovely swirl). Locking and unlocking the control panel to avoid all the beeps is a bit of a nuisance.

Otherwise, no complaints. So far.

rc

Here's a quick update. The oven is quiet sophisticated. A quiet fan runs while it is pre-heating. I guess that must make the pre-heat a little quicker. A fan runs after the oven has been shut down too, to cool it down. It is very quiet also. I only realized this when I stood in front of the range after using the oven, and shutting it down. I could feel the warm air being pumped out the venting at the top. It is so quiet, that I felt it before realizing that a fan was actually running. It's warm air, not hot. Not going to burn you.

Still haven't tried the lower oven. I would most likely use it for heating up frozen foods, maybe for cooking pizza. Because of it smaller size, I bet it heats up pretty quick.

The dual timers are convenient, and easy to use. However, they sure aren't very loud, especially considering that the audio is adjustable. I would say that the loudest setting is about what I would expect to hear at the lowest setting.

Patrick

Patrick, thanks so much for your helpful, informative posts. I really appreciate all the detailed info.

Pudgybaby,

Glad you appreciate my input. Here's one possible correction in what I said last time. That warm air I feel being pumped out after the oven is shut down, may just be a function of protecting the control panel from excessive heat from the oven, rather than an attempt to cool down the oven. That would explain why the air I feel is just warm, even when the oven is still hot. Important?, probably not. I just like to try to be as accurate as possible, even when I am giving an educated guess as to what is going on.

I will be leaving town tomorrow for an extended period. Wish I could spend more time with my new "toy." I will be interested in what others report with their experiences with this, and other Induction Ranges.

I will be using my 20 some year old GE Coil Range while in my alternate location. I love that stove too! It has a beautiful stainless top with aluminum drip bowls & stainless trim rings around the elements. It looks so classy compared to what I see on the market today. On today's coil ranges everything would all be Black. I would much rather use a quality Coil Cook Top than a Radiant one any day. I would gladly use steel wool occasionally on the drip bowls, and trim rings, rather than need a razor blade almost daily to keep a conventional glass top looking good. While not near as good as induction, the coils are much more responsive than a Radiant Cook Top.

Patrick

Patrick,

Thank you so much for your reviews. Have a safe trip.

WF

My thanks as well, patrick! Enjoy your trip and your electric coil range. It's been a while since I've had one, but the cleaning factor was one reason we switched to the smooth top. The razor blade cleaning doesn't bother me as much as the scrubbing all around the coils and pans, and I am not such a gourmet that I ever noticed the responsiveness, but I'm sure the coil one must have been better. At least it sounds like induction will be much better.

Any further updates? We're looking at this range for our gut rehab....

I only had a few weeks to use my new range before I went back to Michigan. That is where I am now. The new Range is in Florida. I hope to get back to "visit" it some time this summer for a couple of weeks. I will be back using it regularly next winter.

I would be interested in hearing about other peoples experiences with their Electrolux Induction Ranges. I figure that a few more people must have them by now.

My experience about my Induction Electrolux range is far a way to be satisfied. I had to replace all my Belgin Cooper Cookware set for a SS Caphalon, because the cookware must have a magnetic function. But I stil have problem to fry an egg, make an omellet, make hot cakes, crepes, everything is sticks. I called to Caphalon and they suggested me to wait 10 minutes in room temperatures of all those products comning out from the refrigerator before to cook and not use pan instead Oil. Anyway it doesnt work neither. It has been my worst investment in my lovely kitchen thanks to Electrolux.

Thanks to all for the great info here. I have a small counter top induction burner and have always liked it except for its ten settings range. Sounds like this Electrolux has solved that. We have one on order, so I hope so. My experience with the counter top unit has taught me that there are varying degrees of magnetism from one pan to another, the highest being cast iron, in my experience, and that this makes a difference and you have to learn to adjust for that with these induction elements. A little trial and error and you can get it right.

Tuned on the slide in Electrolux Induction stove, EW301S6CJSC. We were cooking on the front burner and inadvertantly activated something, all functions stopped, cooktop locked, control lock has a 3 displayed in box, door locked. Able to get door open after power down. display says 5F or SF by Upper Oven control. What have we done and how do we correct it?

I don't know about the 5F. The condition you describe sounds just like what happens when the Range is "Locked." On the extreme left of the control panel is a "Lock" Icon with a 3 in it. Is it possible that someone rested their hand on that for 3 seconds? Unlocking the Control Panel & the oven door requires pressing that Icon for 3 seconds also. Good Luck.

I have had mine for two & a half years now with no problems. I frequently lock mine when not in use. Even though my two cats "know" not to get up there, they might "forget" when I'm not around. Another safe guard would be to not leave any pans or kettles on the surface when not in use. This way, even if a surface unit was accidentally turned on, nothing would happen. It actually wouldn't even go On with nothing there.

Tried pressing the unlock but nothing happens. Not a good time of the year to be without a stove. Not very happy with electrolux.

You could try shutting off the power to the stove for 30 seconds - either unplug or flip the breaker on your fuse box. This is sometimes enough to reset everything on an appliance with a computer control board. Good luck!