Call ASKO's tech dept. and ask. It's likely the value of a cap won't be on the wiring diagram that service has though. There is also a possibility that the component/ assembly is made by a third party too.

Just google Asko, the model # + schematic.

I did and here's what I got. (Click the helpful hint below my post).
On the parts list, it does list a capacitor, more than likely, the one you need, but you can always call the site I'm referring you to.

Good Luck with it!

Gary

Here is a link that might be useful: Asko DW Schematics & Parts

Gary - Mark was asking about a cap at the board level, not a typical replacement part like say a standalone starting capacitor.

Soldering on a board is a skill almost no appliance service tech will have, and probably wouldn't attempt in the field even if he did.

Sweet link though.

Thanks for the link Gary but xedos is right, I'm looking for a board level capacitor. Also the door diagrams don't look quite like my door so I'm not sure it is the same dishwasher. I did find a replacement control board on one site that said they had it in stock but it was $468. It isn't worth that much to fix a 20 year old dishwasher. I'll try calling Asko to see if I get any help out of them otherwise I'll replace the dishwasher.

Mark

You are probably correct, xedos, but I did mention it would be a good idea to call them. Also I noticed that they do have some kind of on-line help when you go to that site---A Pop up window, asks, "Can I help you" or something similar.

As far as soldering on a board, you are correct, but fortunately, if you do have to change a component on a circuit board, I can think of no easier part to change than a capacitor.

I was a field service engineer for 40 years +, including running my own business for 16 years, (Scientific Equipment), and we did a lot of board level repair, both in the customer's lab and in our shop---It would have been nice had we only had to change capacitors, as IC's are a PITA!!!

Anyway I hope the link helps out the poster!

Gary

OK, 1st why do you suspect the capacitor is bad?, Is it an electrolytic and you can see leaking at one end, or did it explode?

If it is an electrolytic, you can always buy one with a higher capacity and voltage rating and it will work fine.

So step 1, what kind of a cap is it?

Gary

I assume it's a capacitor, it's a large blue square and is marked C1 on the board. It is not marked like most capacitors that I am familiar with. It is marked with 3u9 K 250v PHILIPS 373 MKT HQ 92 27. It is manufactured by PHILIPS, I think 373 MKT is the package type, 92 27 is probably a date code. I think it is bad because the plastic package is melted on two sides and has turned black on one end.

I'm capable of replacing components on the board. About a year ago I had to replace one of the relays on the board when it stuck on causing the heating element to continually heat.

Mark

You are correct, I googled
PHILIPS 373 MKT HQ 92 27

and here's what I got, (Click the link below my post)

My guess is your odds are about 1000 to 1 with that being the problem though, in 40 years working with electronics with the exception of electrolytic capacitors (which that is NOT), I could probably count the numbers of bad capacitors I've run into using my fingers and still have fingers to spare.

At any rate try electronic parts houses and you may be abvle to find that capacitor, There's a really big one I used to use it "Thief River Falls, Minn" sorry I can't recall their name , right now but they are BIG!!!

Is the DW completely dead?

Gary

Here is a link that might be useful: Capacitor

OK, I finally remembered the name of that electronics store.
I'm getting rusty as I retired and closed by business Dec 31,2005, although I still have customer's calling me, Rolls Royce (Oakland) on Friday.

The store is Digikey and I used them a lot for my business.

My guess would be the CPU chip on that board or possibly some ram or Rom (Memory) chips on that board, a diode if you are "really Lucky"!

Gary

Polyester film cap.

It may be directly across.

Only 63 VAC, 40 V Dc.

WTA"

Some places list it as 250 V.
Trace the circuit and double check the part number

DigiKey should have them if you want to go that far.

Soldering is not all that hard (rosin flux only).

Removing parts without damaging the board is often actually harder.

Film caps are often 'elf healing' but occasionally can fail completely.

If you try t replace it, order more than one.
If the new one fails quickly keep looking.

This post was edited by brickeyee on Mon, Mar 25, 13 at 13:35

So how things going Mark? Did you decide to make another attempt to fix it, or buy a new one?

Inquiring and "Helpfull" Minds wanna know!!!!!

Gary

I called Asko but they were no help. I could guess on the capacitor value and replace it but I'm leaning towards replacing the whole dishwasher. It is almost 20 years old. Now I'm trying to decide what to replace it with. We looked at new dishwashers this weekend. We like the rack layout of the Asko compared to others.

Mark

Why not just pull the trigger on the ASKO?

20 yrs is great for a dishwasher.

Just curious, at this point, why not swap the cap on the board if you have the skill ? You've already invested the time researching all this and it'll cost what - $10 in parts and shipping + an hour or two of your time ? You've really got nothing to lose.

I installed a new cap on the board but I'm not sure it's the same value as the old one. I view this as a short term solution though because I just don't trust the dishwasher anymore.

Now we're trying to decide if we should replace it with a white dishwasher or stainless steel. If we want to change our kitchen over to stainless steel now would be the time to do that. The oven and cooktop are also 20 years old so I don't know how much longer they will last.

Mark

So it works?, Mark

If I was still running my business I would hire you in an instant.

You have very good trouble shooting technique.

I had to teach this to various graduates from Electronic Schools I hired over the years, (ITT) etc etc.

The graduates were always over anxious to "Drag out the Heavy Equipment" first, (O Scopes, Meters, IC Testests etcetc).

I told them it is much faster to use your eyes, ears and nose first---usually you will find the problem much faster.

Anyway, nice job.

For what it's worth, We had an SS DW. What a pita to keep clean, I can not think of a worse place for stainless steel than a DW, every drop of water showed on it.

This time we went with a paneled Miele, had it 7 years now.
Cleanup, if any needed and rare, is a swipe of the wood with a cloth. Also did the same with the fridge for the same reason.

Gary

I had this problem with C1, intermittent power failure. It turned out simply to be loose, especially on the ground pad. It probably had a bad solder joint there because of the heat dissipation. I soldered it in firmly and the intermittent problem went away.