Sparks from the heating coil element on the electric stovetop.

11 years ago

Hi:

I replaced the burner infinite switch (from Sears) on my Kenmore electric stovetop two months ago since turning it on was not heating the coil (the red power light would not come on). But after that, everything was working fine. We have been cooking on that heating coil element since then, but yesterday while my wife was cooking using a non-stick pan, suddenly sparks started coming out of the heating coil element. My wife quickly turned off the burner switch and the sparks stopped.

When I inspected the hetaing coil element, I could see severe damage and there was melted metal on the floor where the sparks touched the floor. Even the bottom of the non-stick pan was damaged. I removed the heating coil element and haven't used it. Two things to note:

1. The burner socket for that particular heating coil element was replaced by the earlier seller. I know that because I can see the new socket connected to the old wires using connectors.
2. The other three heating coil elements work fine which is what we are using for our cooking.

Please tell me what's going on. Did I wire the infinte switch incorrectly, but then why am I seeing the problem after two months? Is the entire electric stovetop unsafe for use?

Thanks,
D

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Comments (7)

weissman
11 years ago
You should post on the electrical wiring forum - you'll get better responses there. Personally, I'd hire a repairman to look at this or more likely replace the range.
dadoes
11 years ago
A problem would have appeared much sooner than two months of use if there's a problem with the replaced control. The element likely just failed/shorted-out. Not unusual. Oven elements can fail in the same fashion, flaring up in a blaze of sparks to some degree or other ... but it's usually not noticed by the user (the oven just turns up not heating) because one doesn't normally stand and watch the oven during use as is the case with burner elements.
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steve340
11 years ago
Replaced the element and the socket at the same time and you should be good to go.

This post was edited by steve340 on Wed, Mar 6, 13 at 23:53
Dukkar
Original Author
11 years ago
Hi!

Update! I tried replacing the burner socket and the heating element, but no luck! I went to HD and bought the following for my Sears/Kenmore electric stovetop:

- Burner socket [http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100135001?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&N=5yc1vZc35vZlo&R=100135001#.UTt6TDBYWSo]
- Heating Element [http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202049930?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&N=5yc1vZc35vZlo&R=202049930#.UTt61zBYWSo]

I followed the directions in this youtube video: Range/Stove/Oven Repair- Replacing the Surface Burner Receptacle (Whirlpool Part # 12001676) - [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L78y6v1rRVQ]. I wasn't able to get porcelain wire connectors so I am using the plastic ones that came with the burner socket.

When i turn on the burner switch, the red light comes on but the heating element just does not get hot. My other 8-inch element had stopped working years ago and i never bothered to fix it, so i tried to fix that as well by replacing the burner socket and used the old heating element. same results: the red light comes on, but the heating element doesn't heat at all! What am i doing wrong? The wires of the previous burner sockets that the previous owner had replaced were soldered as opposed to me using wire connectors for the socket that I am replacing. Other than that, I would expect this to be a simple job!!

Now I only have the two 6-inch ones working. Any help before my wife talks me into calling a technician? :-)

Thanks,
K
weissman
11 years ago
Surprise your wife and buy her a new range before she talks you into calling a technician :-)
jakvis
11 years ago
Without proper diagnosis it's impossible to be absolutely sure... but based on your description, the switch blew when the element shorted.
This is not uncommon with the type of element failure you had.
brickeyee
11 years ago
Measure the DC resistance of the heating coil while it is disconnected from the stove.

Infinite is a BAD COIL (open circuit), other readings are generally ok.

The actual resistance varies a great deal as the coil heats up, so it is really not more than a continuity check.

If an element failed it may have damaged the control if it was hooked up and turned on.