You can add us to the list of those with the intake hose issue. We already replaced it once after about 2.5 years. Now 2 years later the same problem is occurring again. Has anyone had any luck dealing with Miele or the company where they purchased the dishwasher? This is not acceptable. We bought a dishwasher with a 20 year reputation. I could have bought 3 cheaper models and had less of a headache than this.

Are all of you in Calif. ?

We are in Texas. Let me tell you how my husband fixed the issue for much cheaper than Miele parts. This Solenoid seems to work: GE WD15X93 GE Amana Maytag Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve. If you look at the plastic box on the water inlet hose the hose is clamped on and there is an insulated wire that runs into the Miele solenoid - you have to remove the plastic case to see this. He cut the wire and stripped it and put on two slide crimpable connectors that would fit the terminals of the new GE solenoid and then clamped the hose and connected the inlet water. Started the dishwasher and everything works well. We will have to see how long it lasts and how well it does. This is day one, but at $20 for the solenoid we could do this several times for the same cost as the Miele intlet.

Well done !

Don't know about others but we are in California. Tricia: So your husband worked on a Miele or a GE? Guess I'm not understanding this. BTW, we have the repairman coming tomorrow and intend on grilling him. Figured it's our right since we're going to be paying for it. Will let all know what happens.

He retrofitted a GE part into a Miele. Thrifty solution, but is only applicable to a DIYer. Most repairmen would not want to get involved in stuff like that.

Hello All- Yes, I am in California also, and have now replaced the part for a 3rd time in the last year. One of the local repair guys here came up with his own replacement intake valve/pump and sells it on ebay for $100, but thanks for the info on the even cheaper DIY fix with the alternate part- that info is much appreciated! Miele didnt respond to a written complaint I send to them via their website. Still hoping to find a lawyer to take on a class action suit, I have gotten one response from a lawyer thus far and will let you know if a class action occurs, so please keep posting if you have had a problem with this same part so we can contact you for inclusion in the law suit.

I have a Miele Optima, over 9 years old and no problems, whatsoever, (Knock on wood). I have a question though, for you "fellow Californians", How many of you that have had the water valve problem, have a "whole House" water softener?

When I replaced my Old KA DW, the KA looked like it had "snow" inside it, and eventually, (after about 10 years), it did "total the pump on the DW" but not the intake valve.

I figgered I best treats my new Miele better than that, (IE no "super hard" water for the new Miele), even though the KA survived it for 10 years!

Hense, I think one of the main reasons I have not joined the "Multi-valve group" here in Houzz is because of the "whole house soft water system" I installed, before I installed the Miele DW.

Anyway, how many of you folks are feeding your expensive Mieles our lousy hard water, "straight from the tap"?

Gary

No, we do not have a whole house water softener (mainly due to the fact that, without a garage, we would have to install a code-compliant outdoor structure) but we do have a whole house filter which removes a good deal of the minerals. That said, our previous two Kenmore dishwashers, which used the same water (sans filter), didn't have a problem. The first was replaced due to a wiring problem, the second was replaced as we were remodeling and I wanted the Miele. As stated elsewhere, if other dishwashers work fine with hard water, why does the Miele have a problem. The repairman is coming today and we are going to ask, again, what might help.

As a side note, part of the Miele sales pitch to us was that, since it has a built-in water softener, it was actually one of the best dishwashers for areas with hard water. Too bad they didn't mention how bad hard water is on the dishwasher itself.

Well, the repairman was here for about two hours, replaced the inlet valve, told us to ignore the Miele tech's suggestion of an in-line filter but that it would help to get a water softener, charged us $370 and left. As we suspected, our hard water is too much for the delicate mechanics of our Miele. So, if we want to stick with the Miele, we can shell out $370 every three to four years OR we can spend about $4,000 for a soft water system (an actual quote) and another $1,000 to $2,000 for someplace to house the system (remember no garage, no room by the water heater ... ) OR we can buy another brand of dishwasher. And now we've been told that the jury is out on whether a water softener helps or harms our septic system (state-of-the-art, bio-filter system, so we have to contact the manufacturer ... ). And all this because I had to have a Miele .... sigh!

just FYI-

I have a water softener, one of the best at that (kinetico) and still have gone through 3 inlet valves with this junker miele optima. (I also have a septic system, and on a side note, I dont think that a softener would cause any problems with that)

My water softener, (Raine Water), similar to Culligan, cost me slightly more than $25/month and I think they charged me about $30 to install it. At first I only had it on the "hot side", due to the fact that I would have to run PVC pipes of non softened water to the back yard.

Well, as I could never train the wife to use the hot water only, and the cold water kept messing up faucets sinks, etc, I hired a handy man to run non softened water to the back yard. Best thing I ever did, (well close anyway)!

Faucets, sinks, toilets stay lime free now, Yeahhhh, and as I mentioned the Miele DW has been "happy happy" for over 9 years now. I also suspect the water system in the fridge appreciates it too.

Raine comes out and changes the tank, once per month, so I don't havta lift a finger, cept to write the check for the bill.

I am so happy with the system, that I also put it in my rental, and I even pay for it, (how about that)? But it saves all the plumbing fixtures, The DW, the hot water heater, so at least "to Me", It is a good investment.

Of course you don't get the "ultra pure water" that some super expensive systems "might deliver", but the water tastes plenty good for me, and if it doesn't for you, then just buy the bottled water, It's sure a lot cheaper to do that than spend 4 grand on a "Who Knows What"!!!!

I should have mentioned, that I, like caricia78 , have never had a dishwasher fail, in my house or in my rentals, due to our super hard water here, I'm actually to blame for the KS failure, as I was not careful about removing the huge lime chunks from the KA DW, and allowed some of the chunks to get into the pump, So Yep, I agree with those that say (paraphrasing), "Miele should do better"!!!!!

If one checks my various posts, they will find I have posted MANY Warnings about the price, availability, (and the fact that Miele parts can only be sourced from Miele) so they charge what they darn well want to!

But Alas, I had to have the 3rd cutlery rack and back in 2006, only Miele had it. Anyway, "So far so good", I'm sorry others have not shared my good luck!

Gary

We have a Miele Optima G2472 SCVi SF
Replaced the intake valve about 2 years after we got it and it just went off again today. My friend who lives a few streets away just replaced hers for the first time too. Really not pleased with what seems to be a common problem. We own Miele washer/dryer and two vacuums that have been great (knock on wood). This certainly sounds to me like a problem.

FTR, Germany has hard water. If the machines work in Germany then what's the problem?

We have the same problem with our Miele Optima = the intake valve/"waterproof hose" failed after 4.5 years, and now has failed again 2 years later. It's a $300-400 repair. We have an excellent whole-house water softener. Miele has not been apologetic at all. This is unacceptable for one fragile part to ruin the affordability/longevity of a $1400 appliance. Looking at DIY fixes or another machine - not Miele.

I haven't had much luck yet with finding a class action lawyer, but I am still very convinced us miele optima owners have a case. My best advise is to buy another dishwasher or look on ebay for the after market remade intake valve that I recently purchased and try it- I can only attest to it working a few months as that's all I've had it, but so far so good. If anyone finds a class action lawyer please let me know!

Thank you everyone who has posted here. All your posts were helpful. We have a Miele G2472SCViSF Optima dishwasher and have our second intake valve problem in 2 years. As mentioned above each fix is $400+. We were deciding whether to fix again or buy new. It is frustrating to have to buy a new $1500 machine when this one is only 6 years old. The advice above "don't keep replacing the same part" makes sense. The service tech says he has a lot of customers with this problem on this model and he himself suggested new made more sense than repeating the fix. Very frustrating and disappointing that Miele doesn't "own" this issue. Also, we are in Issaquah WA (with a water hardness of 1.6 gr/gal which is really low) so hard water isn't causing the intake issue.

I'm sorry you're having the same issue that most of us here are having. After our last repair, we've decided that, when it happens again, it's a new dishwasher for us. When looking for the Miele customer contact address, I came across this video ... silly but true: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rcr4b_ywWU.

An in-line pressure regulator, either for the whole house or for the dishwasher alone may help avoid pressure damage to the Miele Optima intake valve (if that is actually the root of its reliability problem). My Miele valve failed at about 1.5 years, but the replacement has lasted for 3.5 years so far. I put in a whole house pressure valve not long after the Miele valve was replaced.

kas

Thanks for your input kas. An in-line pressure regulator was recommended by Miele repairman No. !; however, when we asked Miele repairman No. 2 about it, he chuckled and said that, in his experience, a pressure regulator wouldn't help. I guess I find it disconcerting that one has to retrofit their house/plumbing/whatever to accommodate a, supposedly, "superior" appliance.

Please note that this is only a "may help," not a "sure to help." I took my valve module apart and didn't find any obvious cause of failure.

I was considering purchasing a Miele, but after reading this thread and seeing that this is such a common issue, I am definitely far more hesitant.

I recall that someone reported in the less distant past than that of my repair that newer Miele dishwashers no longer use the end of the hose solenoid valves, but instead use a valve in the dishwasher guts. I have no direct information on this, but I don't recall any complaints about solenoid valve failures of the newer models. If you happen by a distributor showroom having Miele dishwashers, perhaps a check of the dishwasher hose will reveal whether my memory is consistent with the present design.

kas

I have had the same issue for years on my Optima. The intake/drain F13 fault happens at least once a year. Miele customer service have been extremely unhelpful. Parts have been replaced, water pressure and temperature checked, and it still happens. On the last 2 or 3 occasions, the problem had amazingly fixed itself by the time the Miele tech arrived, proving that it is more a functional issue than a parts issue. This was after we had let the Miele "rest" while we washed the dishes by hand for the weeks they made us wait until the tech could arrive. This fault has happened yet again today in the middle of a seemingly normal cycle. It is infuriating that Miele cannot tell us how to fix or avoid this recurring problem. I have been told by Miele that the machine is too sensitive for US plumbing. We live in Texas. Well then, they should not sell a product that cannot reliably function in this country.

If Miele is serious about sensitivity being the cause, then the only other factor I can think of is water hammer, due either to the dishwasher rapidly shutting the water off, or some other device, such as a washing machine, doing so. Perhaps addition of a buffer (a mechanical engineer would call it an accumulator) to the water line near the dishwasher will attenuate any pressure pulses that occur due to the [attempted] pile up of moving water at the end of a water line. (Water is not compressible, so its pressure is easily affected by sudden changes in direction. The buffer provides a compressible air bag that absorbs the pressure pulse.

kas

I'm in CA too and have hard water. We are about to do a kitchen remodel and before we do, intend to do something about the water. Whole house water softeners that use salt are banned in our area. I'm thinking the $55/month exchangeable tanks from Culligan and Rayne would be sufficient so we don't destroy our new appliances. Thoughts?

I live in Southern Calif, and the hard water destroyed our 9 year old KA DW.

It also messed up faucets, sinks, tub, you name it, soooooo~~~~~~

When we bought our Miele Optima in 2006, I had Raine Water,(a competitor to Culligan), install a small tank on just the hot water side and connected the Miele DW to the hot water.

Well, the Miele still looked like new inside and worked as new, several years later. Alas, I could not train the wife to only use hot water in all the sinks, tubs etc, and they were still getting lime deposits from our hard water, sooo~~~~ I "bit the bullet", installed a bypass for regular water to the back and side yards, and had the Raine Water install the softener for both hot and cold sides.

Best thing we ever did, faucets sinks, tubs showers all sparkling clean and NOT a trace of lime deposits. In fact I was/am so happy with the Raine Water that I had it installed in my rental and I even pay for it,~~~beats scrubbing lime out of a tub!!!!

To me, the water tastes good, and we even have the ice maker connected to it. The Raine water i'm sure, is not "Purist Quality" as far as drinking goes, but I'm 73 and it hasn't killed me yet!

So Yep, I say GET^ IT^, Thumbs up!

Gary

Gary, yours sounds like an actual system. Mine would be a tank that they swap out every 2 weeks. Or do you mean a reverse osmosis under the sink and the exchange tanks?

Mine is a tank that they swap out once/month. It cost me about $35/month. I don't have to do a thing, except write the check for it. My next door neighbor has one of those Self flushing type water conditioning systems. One night their drains got plugged by tree roots, the water system decided to "flush itself", and all the water came up through the drains, showers toilets etc and did terrible damage to their house.

So for us, we just like the simplicity of the Raine Water guy swapping out the tank, once per month, all I have to do, besides writing the check, is to fireup and move the 1964 Dodge out of the way!

Gary

Ok yes! That's what we will likely get. Don't want to shell out over $5k for a Lifesource conditioning system. And I don't write checks, so even easier for me, lol :)

We have a Miele Dishwasher that we replaced the intake water hose less than two years ago and now it is displaying the same intake red light again. I called and yelled at Miele but of course they didn't offer any help. I was some brilliant electrical person would come up with a way to just defeat this stupid box on the hose so that the dishwasher would see it as working fine. Every time I check the filter in the hose it's clean as is every other part of the dishwasher. Our water pressure is super low only 40psi at the street so that isn't the issue and our water heater is set below the half way mark. I'm planing on pulling this piece of crap out and replacing it with a different make one that doesn't have a stupid sensor on the inlet hose. I was wondering if any of you like any other make of dishwasher?

Thanks - Paul

I have a Miele Optima Series dishwasher model G 2420 SCi. It is about 8 years old. Had the intake hose replaced after 3 years I think for about $250. Then it stopped working again. Same error code. I could not remember who fixed it the first time so I called the place I bought it and told them I needed a new intake hose. They said they had to send a repair guy out to verify it was the hose. The repair guy came when my girlfriend was home and in 2 minutes said yeah it needs a new intake hose that will be $80 for the service call which will be deducted from the repair bill which would be $400 for the hose and $400 for the labor. He also said there's no guarantee it won't happen again. He advised her that it be cheaper to buy a new inexpensive brand of dishwasher. "You see you bought a Mercedes which has a higher cost of maintenance, when a Ford would do the job." This coming from a repairman from the appliance store (Asien's Appliance, Santa Rosa, CA) that sold me this piece of junk for north of $2 grand....I think it was $2500 for the quieter model. I was fuming for weeks and explored the internet. I saw a part on EBAY that sounded promising for $95 but the photo is just a plain cardboard box. I was leery of that but then I found this blog and another person had tried the EBAY part and it worked. I bought the part and it took me less than an hour to install and YEE HAW !!!! my dishwasher was fixed. Been working fine for several months now and I am so happy to find the solution.Thank You, Thank You, Thank You to the EBAY replacement part guy. You truly saved me great pain and suffering! I do love my Miele again as it is so quiet and does a great job of washing the dishes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301848332552?euid=630eb55e3ebe43bc97d160ea6fb9fdf6&cp=1&exe=13926&ext=35633&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext

Thanks for posting the part information 'jonbgoode'. I've decided that the next time the dishwasher goes out (and we all know it will ... ), we might as well try to do the replacement ourselves (or con my handyman SIL to do it). After all, what have we got to lose if we're going to replace the Miele anyway.

That said, I found the information on Raine interesting as well. The local water people we had come out to give us a quote on a whole-house system seemed totally disinterested in the project (which seemed rather straight-forward to us) and then quoted us a price that was about equal to a year's tuition of college.

This is just a general comment--but we have the 858scvi plus--installed 11 years ago. Yes, we have had the intake/drain issue which we have fortunately seemed to dodge without repair (knock on wood)--it seems to correct itself with little help from us every time it has happened so far. HOWEVER, my issue is with the dishwasher itself! For something to have purportedly been the best at the time we purchased it, I have been less than happy with its performance. Some pieces/dishes are left wet when cycle is complete and there are way too many instances of cutlery/dishes/bowls with food still remaining or hardened on. I have to check everything when it comes out of the dishwasher, or at least rinse everything, almost to the point of complete cleanliness, before it goes in. I would never recommend a Miele dishwasher to anyone. Sigh.

We also have an Optima.

We've replaced the in-line water line twice in the 8(?) years we have had it.

I'm in a city in BC Canada with 80 psi water pressure in the house, and 140F water temp.

It's good soft water, and there shouldn't be a problem.

I'm on the fence about the next time if the in-line water line craps out.

On our Miele unit the "Water Proof System" (hose with the solenoid valve box at the end) didn't cause any errors on the console but started slowly leaking from the valve box area onto the floor.

After removing the box cover I found there was a faint crack in the formed plastic valve housing which was leaking. Seems like a manufacturing defect or possibly impact damage? I'm considering plastic welding it, basically using a heated flathead screwdriver to re-melt and seal the cracked area. Hopefully the pressures involved aren't high enough to reopen the crack.

I read Tricia's post 11/4/15 about the $20 GE WD15X93 solenoid valve retrofit on the existing Miele hose. That seems like a great option considering the amount of repeat failures reported. The redundancy of Miele's dual solenoid valves is lost but the vast majority of dishwashers only have one valve and they haven't caused some epidemic of dishwasher house flooding.

Since I currently have my machine apart I was wondering if I could test the Miele solenoid valves while the hose is off the machine. There is a black lead and a white lead leading to the valves. Does anyone happen to know what voltage needs to be applied to those wires to open the valves? 120VAC? 12VDC? voltage on both leads? is the black lead a ground? If anyone knows would really appreciate the info.

120 volt

Thanks. 120V AC to the white lead or the black lead? both?

Hi Joe,

We gave up and bought a KA. After checking Consumer Reports we got the one that they rated the best. The crazy thing is as we were waiting for the installation guy to come and put in the new dishwasher the Optima started to work again. I just thought for the heck of it I would try it one more time as our sink was full of dishes and the stupid thing started to work. I put the installation of the new one on hold as I had a whole box of the fancy Miele soap under the sink so I decided while it's still working I would use the soap up.

Regarding whether or not a whole house filter helps in our case it didn't stop the part from failing. We have had a whole house water filter system since we've owned the dishwasher and it didn't make a difference. We live in S. California with the super hard water but it didn't seem to matter.

Good luck to all of us who bought this overpriced piece of junk!

120v is across the two wires.

My 7 year old Miele G2472 inlet valve failed yesterday for the second time. The first
time Miele did a "goodwill" warranty repair even though it was a couple
of years out of warranty. After reading this thread, I repaired it today
with the GE valve idea that Tricia Mowen
mentioned above. There is also a youtube showing how to install this
type of valve https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw . It's a bit
of a hack but works and will probably last much longer than the Miele
valve. Cost me $85, $59 for the valve because I bought it locally ($40
on Amazon). I also replaced a hose that previously ran to the old valve
with a copper tube with compression fittings. This gave me a way to
mount the valve -- just hang it from the rigid pipe. The job is not
totally easy but if you're handy it's a good way to go. The ideas
floated here that the Miele valves fail due to temperature, pressure or
water quality seem ridiculous to me. It's obviously just a crappy valve.

I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also
the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing
water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by
August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013.

I called the local factory authorized installer,
and they came out promptly. As I
learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the
case and wired-in a new valve. They
charged me price of entire unit.
Eighteen months later, same problem.
I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I
guess I was too timid to try it then.
So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this
time they changed out the entire assembly.
It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and
did another replacement. Every time they
checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees.

The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8
months! We tried to use the machine over
Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming
in and then popping off the “F12” fault code.
After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I
finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before
Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2.

I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw

I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video,
and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units
are functionally comparable. The bracket
and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by
the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer
position in a GE system. It is also about
$10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon,
so I could fix it right away. I would
guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit
on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine
installation.

The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8”
Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water
source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression
fitting. To mate them I needed to pick
up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a
compression thread. Connecting them was
no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while
tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve
portion. I used plumber’s tape first,
but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a
somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick.

The wire connections were straightforward, just as
explained in the video. I test ran it
twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far,
there are no leaks. The time between
failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the
out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was
$40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from
the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done
this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.

I have only had one intake valve failure in my Optima's lifetime, several years ago, and it is of some interest to me to determine why I've been saved the hassle. What is different about my configuration that might be relevant?

• a fair amount of pex in the path, reducing (slightly) any pressure transients

• a house pressure limiter

• a hot/cold mixing valve under the sink feeding the Optima a warmish temperature

• possible lime accumulation in the mixing valve thereby restricting pressure at the solenoid valve during the open state, and potentially reducing any water hammer effects during open/close transitions (these might not be audible)

The first and third items were present at the time of my Optima's valve failure. I welcome opinions about possible factors, because if the Miele valve's markings are to be believed, the valve should withstand almost any likely residential water source. If water hammer is the real underlying issue, then adding a restriction (or for belt and suspenders types: a restriction and a buffer) would be relatively easy to implement.

kas

Well, I got the "dreaded intake light" on my 2006 Miele Optima DW, a couple of months ago and it's still broke. I'm in no hurry to fix it since it's rarely used.

Interesting that the "German Quality","High End Appliance" was easily out done reliability wise, by my "Everyday, ol Swedish Appliances", Electrolux. The Elux Wine Fridge, Speed oven and regular oven all continue to work well with nary a problem in the 11 years I've had them!

Gary

I'm still using an Electrolux vacuum cleaner bought in the late '60s. There is some bearing whine at times, however. I don't think it likes sheet rock compound dust.

Interesting considerations, kas. From the list you compiled, we have a
pressure limiter and mixer. We have one
of those hammer reducer “thingys” as shown in the pic by Don Winters above my
Comments. Our city water is on the soft
side, on the order of under 3 Gr.

Perhaps the problem may not be the over-priced valve at
all. I have a second smaller Miele D/W
in the house, not an Optima, and it has the exact same valve and it has never
failed. I also have several relatives
and friends with Miele D/Ws and the valves on those non-Optima units are
identical to mine. None have ever
failed. This at least suggests that it
may be something other than the valve itself.

I was thinking along the lines of some hardware “bug” in
the Optima machines. It may be something
spurious, and related to some trivial component on the circuit board that the
Miele engineers just have not been able to ferret out. Since the model is now
out of production, they have no incentive to investigate. It could be that the board is sending out,
for example, an over-current signal to the valve solenoid and over time that is
what eventually fries the valve’s open/close circuit. I could envision a situation where only a
certain number of boards were manufactured using a faulty component, making the
problem that much more difficult to diagnose.
Also, depending upon how robust the valve itself is, some valves may tolerate the over-current
signals longer than others. I’ve
experienced that in my case, with one valve lasting nearly 2 years and the most
recent one lasting less than 8 months. If
I knew what the specs were for the proper current to the valve, I could now
check that easily with a meter, since the connectors to the GE valve are now readily
accessible.

Gary, if you have some time, I would recommend doing the
retro-fit on your machine using the GE valve, if for no other reason than the
satisfaction of breaking free from Miele service and saving a princely sum.

I’ll post back here either if the GE valve fails, or in a
few months as a follow-up.

Thanks tracdoc, but at 74 years old, i'm just not "Up to" a DIY job on the DW, but thanks anyways! My plumber said He is willing to tackle the valve replacement, and I may try to find a deal on one on Ebay but like I said, no hurry as the DW is only used when we have company, probably 3 or 4 times a year. I do hear ya on the "Breakaway" thou!

Gary

I'm 73, Gary...and not a trade professional, either....We've got the kind of know-how that only comes with age.

tracdoc:

My understanding is that these valves are operated by 120 Vac and thus the circuitry in the guts of the Miele would be either allowing or blocking this power. Regulation of current seems unlikely, as that would of necessity lower the voltage to the valve.

This doesn't preclude Miele circuitry and/or logic from having some other blame in game. A weak actuation due to corroded terminals or high resistance control circuit might be a factor. However, heat, pressure, and/or grunge seem to me to be the more likely actors.

LXXV

Don Winters and tracdoc, thanks for yours posts, links, and Photos. 59 Dodge-Gary great to hear from you again, where have you been?, although not so great this time you are commenting on a problem you are having. Get your plumber to install that GE valve and guys keep us updated on how this repair lasts. That blue plastic valve looks so similar to the one on My old 1981 Hotpoint DW which functioned until replaced by F&P DishDrawers 10-12 years ago so I confidently hope it will last. If we would hear from mojavean I would feel all is finally well with the ths.gardenweb adoption by houzz. Cheers

Just an update, 5 yrs later now and the aftermarket ebay water inlet valve NOT made by miele is still working