1. external. As in, on the outside of the house wherever the vent pipe ends. On the roof or on an outside wall. Gets the motor out of the house completely. Usually the quietest option.
2. internal. As in the blower is inside the unit above your stove.
3. inline. As in, the blower is in the vent line somewhere between hood over your stove and the outlet on the roof or wall. This moves the motor out of your kitchen and puts it somewhere else, usually the attic.
4. liners. As in, they line a custom-built wood (usually) hood cabinet. They go inside and are sometimes called 'inserts'. They can contain a blower, or not.
6. rear venting. Out the back. What happens after it goes out the back (up,down,sideways) is up to you.

Blowers, liners and hood separately. Well, moving the motor out of the kitchen makes it quieter. Liner and hood gives you the greatest design options, in that you can match the hood to your cabinetry, or make some other kind of architectural statement.

Keep reading, you will understand it eventually (I did).

Great summary! I just have to mention regarding external blowers - while it is the quietest option inside the kitchen, it may be too noisy for your neighbors if it is positioned on your roof, but close to their house or their backyard or patio. And it may be noisy for you if it is mounted near your backyard or patio.

It is probably more convenient for many people to buy a hood "package" than individual (and possibly not compatible) components. Not all packages have internal fans; for example, Wolf has larger hoods and exterior fans that operate together.

If an in-line fan or silencer are desired, then one might have to go to an alternative supplier, such as Fantech.

I would guess that persons of limited free time and/or deep involvement in all the details of a kitchen renovation would find a package easier, while anyone who is interested in and has the time for full scale investigation of ventilation options would prefer component selection.

kas

Thank you. I really thought inline and internal were the same...now I know they are not. It is true that I do not have much time, but I am online every night to look at websites to find a hood. I just seem to forget everything I have read. Thanks for your responses. I am ready to search for a vent hood that has blowers built in...again. Peke

Kaseki, if I put my rangetop in a 27" deep base cabinet and pull the vent hood out 3", how would I build a filler for the gap? I assume granite or stainless steel, but I can't imagine what the filler would even look like. I just know there would be a gap if I brought the hood forward 3". Need to have 15" deep uppers too I guess.

Peke, you are probably going to have to frame out the wall by that same 3" behind the hood. Then maybe get a stainless filler made, horizontally covering that 3" on the bottom of the 3" deep wall. You might be able to cover the 3" with your backsplash tile, if that is what you are doing. As was said in your other thread, best if that added back can angle/taper up from the wall to the rear lip of your hood, for better flow and maybe cleaning.

It MAY get a bit touchy with the inspector. The range/cooktop installation instructions often give a maximum depth (could be 13") for the adjacent upper cabinets. Of course that is for a standard base cabinet, but they may not see it that way. I'm doing the same (16" deep cabinets, mounting hood out 4", deep base cabinets), but haven't gotten to that point yet.

This post was edited by attofarad on Sun, Jan 20, 13 at 0:38

I can't address the whims of inspectors, but if I were to move a hood out from a wall, I'd plan on having some stainless steel pieces made that direct into the hood any effluent that rises up the wall toward the rear gap.

The minimum would be a 3-inch piece that is set on a horizontal plane to the hood edge. Effluent that rises into it would be deflected downward and pushed horizontally away from the wall by the follow-on effluent, and if one is lucky would be entrained in the effluent with a direct path to the hood and captured.

This would not be as good as a larger piece that had the property of deflecting the effluent upwards into the hood. If the effluent angle toward at the wall were 22 degrees, then the angle of the stainless steel to the wall should be no more than 45 - 22 = 23 degrees. So the size of the plate would be 3 inches divided by the sine of 23 degrees, or roughly 8 inches. With cabinets on the sides, only one piece is needed and should be a simple job for a sheet metal shop.

Refinements such as a small edge extentsion to fit against the hood edge and tabs on the sides to mount to the cabinets might be included. Or a frame could be built behind it and the sheet screwed to the frame. It depends somewhat on your home tooling as to which mounting approaches are less of a pain.

kas

attofarad, your description finally helped me "see" what I needed to do.

kaseki, you had me until the degree thing. Get a single piece of SS made for backsplash that angles toward the back of vent hood to direct upwards, right? So 22 degree angle? 8" I missed something.

Thanks,

Found out one thing today. Horizontal means go up then out. Rear venting means just that. Straight out the back. That is the one I need. Peke

22 degrees referred to the half angle of the conical expansion of the rising effluent. Conservation of momentum will tend to cause the rising particles to reflect from the steel at the same angle to the normal to the steel surface as they impinged on it. To keep the particles from going downward or horizontally, it is desirable that the plate be tilted out from the wall at a shallow angle. So, the larger the plate height relative to the three-inch gap, the better it will work. Eight inches was the smallest I would recommend if such a configuration will work for you. An even larger plate that extends from the hood edge to the wall at the bottom of the cabinets would be even better.

For example, the cabinets are 18 inches above the counter and the hood is 30 inches above the counter, leaving 12 inches of distance for the plate. The plate size in the upward direction (excluding any edge details) has to be that given by the Pythagorean theorem, or sqrt(3^2 + 12^2), while the width is the distance between the cabinets. Make a cardboard mock-up before visiting your favorite sheet metal shop.

kas

Oh, so no more than 22 degrees which will need an 8" wide by ? of stainless steel filler. ? is based on width of hood which in my case would be 42". Peke

No. Picture the piece of stainless on the wall. Look at the top. Come down about 8 inches. Draw a straight line from one side to the other. Have the metal shop make a bend at that line. The bottom of the bend will be attached to the wall. The very top of the bend will stick-out a skoonch more than three inches. That will give you an angle of 22 degress out from the vertical plane of the wall/rest-of-the-sheet. It will butt up against the back of your hood. The top of the metal will meet the back of the hood. The stainless will completly cover the space between the wall and the back of your bumped-out hood. Kas is saying this will give y0u the most efficient flow into your now bumped-out hood.

This has nothing to do with how wide your hood will be. It will be the same whether your hood is 30 inches, 36 inches or 72 inches wide. The only thing that matters is how far you have bumped-out the hood.

This post was edited by JWVideo on Tue, Jan 22, 13 at 23:18

Gotcha! The bend will bend toward the front of the hood and meet with the vent. I guess it gets screwed on? Sealed in some way?

I forgot the backsplash part. I was just thinking the part from hood to wall. Of course it needs to be one piece.... Love this forum! I learn more every day. You are awesome.

So I can quit trying to find a 27" deep undercabinet hood?

It is bound to be less expensive to get 24" hood instead of 27" deep and add the SS piece since I have to add a SS backsplash anyway. I just have to remember to add 6" for below the rangetop when I measure, find the bend msmt, then add the inches to the vent.

Thanks again for all of your help! Peke

Peke, what did you narrow down to?
This has been a useful thread to help me in our unexpected kitchen remodel. Thank you. I am baffled. Haha.

I received it Thursday night. I bought the Broan E6042T SS. It is beautiful. No logos on it. Also doesn't have any paperwork with it for some reason. Will need to download user manuals and installation manuals I guess.

It is not installed yet. It is just waiting patiently with the other appliances.

First picture is the part where it would vent straight up. Two small rectangles that unscrew. The same for rear venting.

Broan E6042T SS
Accessories Mandatory Yes
Accessories Optional Yes
Accommodates Ceiling Height 8'
ADA Compliant No
Blower Air Mover Type Centrifugal Blower
Blower Included Yes
Boost Mode No
CFM (Airflow) 1200
Color/Finish Stainless Steel
Control Feature Filter Reminder No
Damper Included Yes
Delay Shut Off No
Digital Clock No
Dishwasher Safe Filters Yes
Duct Connector Size 4-1/2" x 18"
ENERGY STAR� qualified No
Filter Included Yes
Filter Type Stainless Steel Baffle
Flue Accommodates ceilings up to xx ft N/A
Heat Sentry Yes
HVI Certified Yes
Light Bulb Quantity 3
Light Bulbs Included No
Lighting Function Two-level
Lighting Type Halogen
Max Sones/100 CFM 1.2
Minimum Height Above Cook Top 24"
Mounting System Wall
Mounting Type Wall
Nightlight No
Non-Stick Coated No
Product Depth (inches) 24"
Product Height (inches) 18"
Product Width (inches) 42"
Rated Amps 9.0
Remote Control No
Sones Certified Horizontal High 13.5
Sones Certified Horizontal Low 1.5
Sones Certified Vertical 7" Round High N/A
Sones Certified Vertical 7" Round Low N/A
Sones Certified Vertical High 14.0
Sones Certified Vertical Low 1.5
Switch Control Settings Variable
Switch Style Rotary Dial
Timer No
UL Status Yes
Voltage 120

2nd picture is the underside baffles. 3 lights, 2 rotary knobs, 1 rocker type switch, and one small clear "thing" that looks like it might be a tiny light that will light up when it is running. Like you wouldn't know without that light! LOL

left rotary dial can turn & click 2 times. Looks like the lights. 2nd dial is the fan and it just turns....no clicks. So maybe the speed? The rocker switch looks like the on/off.
I haven't taken the baffles out yet to see if they feel sturdy.90 lbs of vent hood feels sturdy to me. It will be a while before it gets installed. Will post when I get it installed. Peke

Thank you to everyone who helped me find a vent hood.

Now...on to a kitchen sink search and choosing shelf height in my pantries....and drawer heights...and cabinet doors....

Will it ever end? Pele

Looks and sounds great Peke! Keep posting your kitchen purchases journey. Btw, this is the vent hood my appliance expert recommended.

I think my brain is mush! I do not remember posting this!

Peke

Hi everyone

These forum posts are incredibly helpful. . . but I'm currently in a quandry as to the specs I should get in a hood system. I'm hoping you all can chime in to help me.

i have the option of buying an Abbaka hood liner that didn't work for someone else for a great deal. . . I'm just not certain it will work for me. It is 54" x 25" x 12" but the kicker is that the filters installed in the unit are only 16" deep from the rear.

My cooktops will be a Freedom induction 36" x 21" (but only 18" workable surface) with a 15" x 21" (but only 15" cooking surface). Side by side these two will be installed at about a 52-54" width. Also, my counter depth is extra deep at 36" to allow for appliance garages at other points in the counter. . . .but this does provide me installment options for the cooktops and liner/hood system.

My question is whether this hood liner and filter system will be adequate for the induction/gas cooktops?
Thanks in advance for any help!
riveroakgirl

Oops. . . the 15" unit is a Wolf multifunction gas hob. !

riveroakgirl. Welcome. You may wish to make your own thread with your pertinent question rather than place it here where few may view it.

Your question is rather unique and I don't have the expertise to answer but others most likely will. We have quite the hood experts here on GW. Good luck.

Thank you SparklingWater, I will do just that!
riveroakgirl