Have you checked code in your area? Some places don't allow windows directly behind ranges. Also, with a 1400 CFM blower, you most likely will need makeup air.

Code is ok with window - we hope we won't have to use the full 1400 and there are 4 windows in kitchen do plan is to bring in make up air for boiler and open window if we have fan on. Older drafty house (well not so much the kitchen now - but hvac guy didn't think we'd need make up air)

Do folks think the hood is deep enough?

You did not say how high above the range you intend to mount it. I am not an expert but others here would be able to input more with that measurement available. Good luck!

Mounting 7' off floor so about a foot higher than normal

Assuming counters are 36" and the cooking surface is about the same, that would put the hood at 48" above the cooking surface. Is that what you intend? That is indeed very high.

I didn't do the math, but a hood should be 30" - 36" above the cooktop. Any more and you'll definitely lose effectiveness.

It does sound like the hood will be too high. What is make up air? Ours is a high CFM too, not installed yet. Does make up air mean we'll have to open a door or window? that could get pretty chilly in winter...

The air that goes out of the kitchen has to also come into the kitchen. With a very wimpy ventilation system, this air can be supplied by house leakage. With serious ventilation (you could probably achieve an actual 1000 cfm with all the windows open) this air must come from a deliberate air path. If weather doesn't allow windows to be open whenever cooking, then a make-up air system is needed to supply the air. This can involve a blower of its own, filtering, and heating (in the north) or cooling (in the south). At a minimum a large duct and a damper are required. Otherwise, two effects can occur: First, one might back-draft combustion appliances. This is not good as it pulls CO and other undesirable effluent into the house. Second, air will be pulled through the walls affecting their internal humidity. In both cases, the actual hood flow will balance to a value well under the free-flow 1000 cfm or whatever it is.

So, for nice ranges with adequate ventilation, there are three major costs: The range itself, the exhaust ventilation, and the MUA ventilation. The costs can be equal, but typically the two ventilation costs combined roughly match the range cost.

The alternative is a greasy house. There is a reason why historical Chinese houses had a separated and open kitchen attached to the house. Today, if one can see the roof of a restaurant, one will find at least one high MUA intake vent and several exhaust vents (usually upblast fans).

kas

I highly recommend a variable speed motor on your air handling unit (with a remote controller at the range)...most of the time you will only need @600CFM...only when you fire up all the burners, wok cook, or high temp cook with smoke, will you need the >1K CFM. If you have not yet, check out Greenheck...they have variable speed controllers and great blowers.

If you dont go with a variable speed, your makeup air will be through your central HVAC which can be very wasteful.

Furthermore...if you are not using an engineer, you really should have someone go through your duct design to ensure you fan curve (blower) will accommodate your ducting.

Good luck!

We went ahead and ordered the insert and fan (Abbaka hyex14). Hope it all works out ok. Duct run is extremely short - just thru roof essentially

We are at the tail end of our renovation, and the hood and inline blower (Fantech) will be installed in about a month, after tiling the backsplash.

The 10" round duct will go right out the back of the hood, across the small garage and out the garage wall.

My previous GC, previous nor current HVAC guy, plumber, nor any one of the many knowledgeable tradesmen who've done work on this project have mentioned make up air. I can't cut any holes into my finished space now that it's done. I could certainly crack a window (even in winter). I would love any suggestions about how to work in make up air. And I will certainly call Eurostoves and see what they recommend, which is where I bought the Modernaire hood.

Thanks for any info or suggestions.

There may not be enough server space on Amazon's cloud to address everything one would like to know about make-up air (MUA) and in particular how to incorporate it at an affordable price. For a start, you could read the messages and links on my My Clippings page. Also search this forum for MUA and spend several days reading.

Some highlights as I see them.

Crack a window a couple of inches when the fan is on low, open it a foot if you intend to pull 1000+ cfm. (Half these values may work if there is no screen.)

Accept reduced ventilation flow capacity with negative house pressure, but only if any combustion appliances in the house have their own MUA or are in a room isolated (air wise) from the kitchen.

Do not try to run a fireplace without a fan augmented MUA system unless enough windows are open.

HVAC "guys" should know all about MUA from restaurant codes and residential codes that have been in place for years. (Some localities may not enforce residential MUA requirements; others may embrace fanaticism on the subject.)

Generally, the replacement air should be conditioned for comfort, but raw cold air is always a choice. The air needs to flow into the kitchen in a way that does not disrupt the rising effluent from the pans. A basement path to a point under a stove is a possibility, or to several toe kick vents, or the air can be injected via a diffuser in a ceiling some distance from the stove. Whether these paths will be sufficient without fan boost depends on many variables.

kas