I refinish furniture with either shellac or lacquer.

I refinished an antique baby grand piano with amber shellac. I added a flattener agent to create a satin finish.

I do not like a gloss look in old or new furniture but that is just my opinion.

If you had not added the wax, another couple of coats of shellac with a flattener agent would have added the "waxed" look without all the effort.

I would never use poly on furniture of any importance. Polyurethane does not bond well to existing finishes. It is impossible to repair a chip as poly, once dry, will not amalgamate with itself or other finishes.

This post was edited by lsst on Tue, Sep 9, 14 at 4:04

You can skip the step with the alcohol; shellac does not need softening for the next coat to adhere. Go with oil+steel wool, then wipe off the mess and polish (wiped-on shellac) right away. After a polish, apply the wax with steel wool if you like; if too shiny, rub with FF Pumice and oil on a felt block, clean off with naphtha and follow with wax.
Casey

So if I get tired of the shine I can clean the wax off and add another coat of shellac with a flattening agent or I can polish the wax with steel wool or the pumice and oil. Good to know. Thanks!

Here's a pic of the shiny monster. Dog approved.

This post was edited by Acadiafun on Wed, Sep 10, 14 at 11:34

Casey, what kind of oil to use with the steel wool? Isst, is there a name for this flattening agent? I have an eastlake plant stand. Finish is mostly ok but the top surface has some wear and water damage. Thanks!

Mineral oil, like from the drugstore.
The link is to a vendor for "shellac flat" which I have never tried, but I googled it for you.
Casey

Here is a link that might be useful: Shellacs and related products

Thanks!

I use Shellac Flat that Casey mentioned.

This post was edited by lsst on Sat, Sep 20, 14 at 5:44