It really doesn't look to be in bad shape. I think a little touch up is all it needs if you want to use it.

I don't think it's particularly valuable (I've been shopping for a china cabinet and I happen to love that style), but it's nice if you like it, and one of the more practical styles in my opinion.

Ship it to the Texasredhead.

But where and when doth it come? What can you tell me about it? 30's? 40's?

It has 1930 stamped all over it!....Not high end...but becoming more desirable all the time.
The biggest issue will be the missing trim on the crown. You could reproduce it in plaster....or in RockHard wood putty.
Linda C

Oh I love it. No not high end but this style seems to be coming back into demand. If you like it I think it would be worth repairing/refinishing.

My intent is to sell it, not keep it. My question is: true restoration, repair and refinish,, or do nothing?

That depends on what you paid for it and what you want to sell it for.
Or you could do a dirty deed and paint it ( EWW! Ick!) and glaze it and remove the damaged trim.
The point being is your time worth the difference you might get in price than if you sold it as is.
Linda C

Linda, why did you suggest glazing it? The glass is OK. It certainly isn't worth a restoration, but replacing the trim filigree and repairing the veneer is practical. I can make a latex mold for plaster, but there isn't enough of the mirror image to make the whole thing. I'd have to free-hand some of it. I might have to substitute a reasonable facsimile of the filigree. Any idea what the piece is worth? I bought it as part of a large lot 12 years ago. No idea of price.
Richard

The steam-pressed carvings are still widely available. If you found a good online catalog of them you may well find the same shape. The 1895-1930's furniture were often designed around these ready-made faux-carved shapes. The curve of the pediment matched the mass-produced carving, not vice-versa.

Otherwise, I've found that once small bits have begun to let go (and areas of veneer) it indicates that a piece that so heavily relies on glue to hold the surface together has been subject to such bad environmentals (of humidity and dryness) that you could be fighting a losing battle. Once the animal glues have reached their breaking point they will continue to yield until they are spent.
Casey

I believe that when Linda refers to glaze (along with the "eww") she means the trendy paint technique where you glaze the painted surfaces with dirt colored paint. I concur with the eww, but if it's really that far gone, might as well. Shabby chic. (I'd prefer a nice clean paint job if it must e painted, but people are into distressed and/or glazed these days.)

Yep....that's what I meant....not replace the glass....but smear some stuff over the paint.
Linda c

Hi,
It looks like dandy piece for a shabby white restoration project.
My son does these pieces all the time and transforms them into something you would see in Country Living magazine and they come out quite charming.
I wouldn't remove anything, because fixing the molding is very important, enen if it needs repair.
That's the charm of it.

RRM - The large bulbous things on the legs, where they don't blend much with the rest of the piece, are very characteristic of the late 1920s and early 1930s.

I have a piece that almost goes with that. I think you should give it to me ;-) Please don't paint it. Back in my stupid younger days I refinished ALL of my mothers old stuff. Regret it to this day.

I would be happy to sell it for a fair price. That is, if anyone could tell me what a fair price for it is. I have no intention of painting it. I will either restore the finish and replace the appliques and veneers or sell it as is. Hence, the original question.

If one were to go to a resin molding site, like Pearworks, you could get some very nice molding. This molding is flexible, paintable, and if a person is good at faux painting, it would be difficult to tell it from the original wood.
If you would like someone to guess the value, you need to provide more complete information. Is there any indication on the drawer or bottom of cabinet or back or inside of carcase indicating who made it? Other than the machine cut dovetails, it's hard to determine the age. What is the wood? Is the glass held into the mutins by rabitts or are they just on the back of the glass.
Do you have a store or do you sell at a booth at a swapmeet or antique fair? Without providing good information, you cannot get a informed guess.

Getting back to the OP's question... it largely depends on where you live, and how valuable your time is to you. Personally, I would just clean it up a bit and sell it as is. I would probably ask around $125 for it, but would be fine with $75.

I'm basing that on, fully restored, I probably couldn't get more than $200-$250 for it, and it just wouldn't be worth it to me to put $30 worth of products and probably 6-10 hours of work into it.

If it was a labor of love that I intended to keep, or had free lazy days... sure! 200 beats 75 :-)

Thanks, Mikk for the reality check. I started looking for the appliques, but haven't heard back from Pearworks (they're relatively close). If a top price is all of what Mikk claims, I think I'll fore go the appliques and just clean it up a bit. I'm not sure if re-gluing some of the veneer is wise or not, I do have experience with veneers and the lifting is just at some corners and a couple of small splits that I don't want to come off entirely. I haven't been to storage yet to look if mfr. is determinable. Thanks, all of you guys.

This is 1920s china cabinet and it does not look in bad condition from here just some touchup I have one just like it and would sell for about $400 in an antique shop but you should get 200 for it if it was glued up and touched up.