If I am understanding your question correctly: There is a long/thin piece of material that you use- you put it tight up against the tub, then the vinyl goes on it, and it folds tightly over it. It then does not 'move', curl up or shift in any way. I am sure you have seen these. there are cheapie ones at HD and Lowe's, and thinner, nicer ones at the nicer carpet stores. they are very inexpensive. I have actually seen baths that were in the 'Parade of Homes', supposedly built by top builders that didn't even have these. I am sorry I don't know the proper name. Myvinyl has been in my downstairs bath for about 7 years- it looks wonderful, with no telltale water damage of any kind where the vinyl meets the tub.

Accuracy-the process is just as much fun and the results way more rewarding! Just to clarify for new quilters-there is a 1/4" foot and a scant 1/4" foot available (at least for the newer machines). The scant 1/4" foot has a little lip/fence on the edge. I still have to move my needle position one position to the right to achieve that perfect 1/4" seam. I personally don't think just measuring the 1/4" seam allowance is truly accurate. You need to press the seam, then measure the finished width. The slight bulk of the thread & fabric takes up a teeney bit. I am a huge fan of Pressing-Pressing-Pressing. I also suggest pressing your fabric before you cut - and I use Sizing. I am a bit more aggressive (ironing) at this point. The selvages are still attached - I want the fabric to misbehave now, before I start to cut. I think it is crucial to pin the intersections. The type of pin you use is also key. I read to use Patchwork Pins - very fine .05 (or .04), short 1.25, and small head - pin all joints, and not less than 4" apart on long rows. I use Clover #232, and my joints showed a huge improvement. Thank you Kate for starting this post. Sharing this kind of information was extremely helpful to me when I was starting and I still value the tips and suggestions as I grow into a better more experience quilter. (I started writing this over 2 hours ago - and just got back to it-if I have repeated someone's suggestions, I apologize.)

You can see though, where there is going to be two distinct outcomes when it comes to the seams. If you want the grain running all in one direction over the entire kitchen, it should be possible to get an "invisible" seam--or realistically an unobtrusive seam. If you want the grain to run parallel to the length of the cabinets, there is going to be some sort of "mitered" appearance or chevron appearance to the grain at a corner no matter how carefully it's done. If you like all one direction, or a combo of lengthwise and cross grain slabs, fine. If you like parallel grains and don't mind the intersecting miter or chevron, fine. The problem group of consumer is going to be the one who wants both parallel grain, and an unnoticeable seam. And there will be people who expect both.

If, as in my case, the seam is the full depth of the counter, there are small t-shaped moldings from various manufacturers such as Schluter. They come in stainless steel, brass or various anodized aluminum finishes. They are made either for same-level surfaces or to reduce one height to another.