Has anyone fabricated a jib door?

palimpsestSeptember 22, 2010

I want to do jib doors ("invisible" doors) on some of the closets on an upcoming renovation.

I have done one jib door where we wrapped the opening in drywall, ran the baseboard across the bottom of the opening and the put a wood stop around the interior of the opening and mounted a 3/4" MDF panel in the opening with Euro cabinet hinges. This was a shallowish reach in closet.

However, now I want to do jibs on full-sized closets with full-sized closet doors on Soss hinges and this will require a wood jamb. I have not seen details as to how create the interface between the wood jamb and the drywall. Can you use a trim profile from Fry Reglet and spackle to the corner on the drywall face and woodfill to the corner on the jamb face? Is there some profile I have not found yet?

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Jamb is even with the face of the drywall in both rooms.

Door casing then is fastened to the edge of the jamb (often with an ~1/8 inch reveal) and also to the studs in the wall to cover the edge of the drywall and the gap between the jamb and the drywall.

I think what you are calling "jib doors" are more commonly referred to as 'pocket doors.'

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    Bookmark   September 24, 2010 at 1:05PM
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A gibb door is the same as a blind door. It is like an inset cabinet door. Install the door and plaster right to the jamb. Use a magnetic push latch or something similar so that you can open it.

    Bookmark   September 24, 2010 at 4:28PM
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The problem you will have is creating a drywall corner that will stand up to even limited use at the edges of the opening.

Metal corner bead is used to provide protection for the otherwise fragile 90 degree outside corner.

The problem is that the bead is often at least 1 inch wide on each face.

You could try to trim back the jamb side, but all the 'hidden' doors I have ever seen were in places with a lot of 'distraction' on the wall (most often wall paper) and often not really suitable for daily use.

If you made the corner from real plaster or Durabond it would be a little more damage resistant than pre-mix drywall mud.

Even plaster and Durabond normally use metal bead though.

You could then run the drywall up to just shy of the door edge, and fill in any remaining gap from the drywall to the door itself with the plaster or Durabond.

    Bookmark   September 25, 2010 at 10:49AM
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Check out the link below with plans for a hidden door. My father in law actually made this bookshelf and hidden door - it is very nice.

Here is a link that might be useful: Hidden Safe House Door Plans

    Bookmark   September 25, 2010 at 12:07PM
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I'd use 1/2" plywood for the surrounding wall surface in place of drywall. A 1/2" rabbet in the jamb edge would conceal the end grain of the ply and add strength, as the jamb/ply joint would be screwed/glued/pinned. The unevenness of the joint would be scraped or sanded flush. A permanent and strong but invisible corner joint is thus achieved. High grade cabinet plywood with no voids is very suitable in place of drywall. The corners (where it will transition back to drywall) can be taped normally. I use this technique from time to time and it hasn't yet disappointed.

    Bookmark   September 25, 2010 at 12:29PM
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That sounds good.

I have used a technique similar to that when I was creating a paneled end wall in a historic bedroom and created wall panels in the rhythm of the door panels and did not use separate casings around the openings. I just never thought about doing it for a completely flush jib. Thanks.

    Bookmark   September 26, 2010 at 6:21PM
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