But can I salvage the sink?

BlackChamoisOctober 17, 2013

So I have found a cabinet maker and am moving forward with a redo.

As I had feared, and mentioned in my earlier post (see link), it was difficult to find a cabinet maker willing to work with the existing bases and only provide the uppers and doors/drawer fronts.

With the base cabinets now needing to come out, there is a high probability that the counters will be damaged in the process. So I have prepared for that expense.

My question now is ... can I remove the sink and at least salvage that? (It is an undermount.)

I have looked underneath and it is not attached with any clips, etc. I believe the edge of the sink is sandwiched in between the plywood and the counter. My thought is that we could (very carefully) use a utility knife to cut the caulking to loosen it there, and then hopefully it will detach more easily from the counter or whatever else it is adhered to.

What are your thoughts?

Thank you!

Here is a link that might be useful: Earlier post

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gr8daygw

It should come out just fine. We had to have a sink reset and they simply did as you said and reset it.

    Bookmark   October 18, 2013 at 12:34AM
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BlackChamois

gr8day - Thank you for the reply! Good to know! I was worried that it may get bent in the process. I'd hate to have to purchase another one. I will have to reorder the template tho. I already contacted Franke and it will only cost $10 for them to resend one.

Thanks again!

    Bookmark   October 18, 2013 at 12:37PM
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Trebruchet

I'm not sure why you want to remove your sink. The counters are much stronger for moving with the sink in place.

Sawzall the unfinished stretcher from the top of the sink cabinet and pull the top and sink straight out then tip it on edge. This isn't granite; it isn't going to break. The stretcher is easily reattached.

If you're insistent on removing the sink, you'll need to repeatedly drive a rigid scraper between the sink flange and the bottom of the top. I've done this over 20 times.

The sink must be mechanically fastened in place when it is reinstalled.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2013 at 1:59PM
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BlackChamois

Trebruchet - The counter piece that contains the sink is an 'L' shaped piece. When the base cabinets are removed and replaced, I am anticipating that the counters may get damaged. (Just preparing for worse case.) Also, the layout may be shifting slightly. As much as I am trying to keep it the same the actual dimensions may change such that the same counter can't be used or would have to be refabricated.

What you are saying makes sense in that the counter would be more stable with the sink in place, just not sure that I will be able to salvage it. So if not, I'd at least like to salvage the sink.

When you say the sink must be mechanically fastened, could you explain that a bit more?

Thanks much!

    Bookmark   October 19, 2013 at 4:55PM
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Trebruchet

BlackChamois:

Your countertop fabricator should have a method to mechanically fasten sinks; there are several good methods.

If he doesn't, he or you can use a Hercules Universal Sink Harness from Braxton Bragg. I have had great success with this and highly recommend it. This is not an ad.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2013 at 5:03PM
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BlackChamois

Trebruchet - One more question. Are you saying that the sink can't be installed the same way once it has been removed? As far as I can tell, the lip is just sandwiched between the plywood and counter (and secured with some type of adhesive and caulk).

Will it need extra support the second time around? Or should they have mechanically fastened, or used a harness the first time?

Thanks again!

    Bookmark   October 19, 2013 at 11:28PM
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Trebruchet

The sink is completely reusable and can be installed the same way it was, except with mechanical fasteners next time.

In your old post, it looks like you have 3cm thick tops. Are they 2cm with a 2cm front edge build-up? That's the only reason I can fathom for the use of a plywood sub-top.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2013 at 7:31AM
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BlackChamois

Trebruchet - Yes, they are 2cm with a mitered edge. The finished edge then measures 1.5".

Also, I am in CA and I believe the plywood sub-top is required here.

Is the purpose of the mechanical fasters just to provide more stability? Do you forsee issues if one is not used?

Thanks!

    Bookmark   October 20, 2013 at 10:23AM
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Trebruchet

The plywood is acting as a mechanical fastener. You're going to have to remove the plywood before that sink is coming off that stone.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2013 at 4:54PM
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BlackChamois

Trebruchet - Thank you for the helpful info!

    Bookmark   October 20, 2013 at 6:58PM
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Trebruchet

You're welcome.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2013 at 10:25PM
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BlackChamois

Trebuchet - I hope you are still out there! It's THAT time! The cabinet guys are coming tomorrow to rip out the "old" cabinets and counters. I won't be able to salvage the counters but still hoping to save the sink.

You had said "Sawzall the unfinished stretcher from the top of the sink cabinet and pull the top and sink straight out then tip it on edge."

Is the stretcher the same thing as the plywood sub top?

And would you Sawzall it from the underside, as in from inside the sink cabinet?

I'm just trying to imagine how this is going to go tomorrow and not sure of the "order" in which this part of the demolition needs to be done.

Sorry for the dumb questions!

As always, thank you!!

    Bookmark   December 11, 2013 at 1:07AM
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BlackChamois

bump!

    Bookmark   December 11, 2013 at 10:46AM
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