need help-- how to fit in legs on frameless cabs?

michoumonsterOctober 26, 2012

Hi all,

I am struggling with my kitchen island design. So far, I have mapped out all the cabinetry that I want. But, I cannot figure out how to fit in island legs on the ends. If I do frameless cabinets, is it possible to do the legs?

I just want simple straight 3inchx3inch legs..

but if i add legs, will they impede the cab doors/drawers from opening? thank you for your advice!! I know they have legs that are notched, but I cannot figure out how to put it together.

Here is my island cabinet layout

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Here is how CrownPoint does it

Here is a link that might be useful: Crown Point

    Bookmark   October 26, 2012 at 2:04PM
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You probably treat the legs as filler strips; reduce the size of the adjacent cabinets by the width of the legs.

    Bookmark   October 26, 2012 at 8:20PM
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thanks for the link donaleen, the crownpoint frameless cabinets are quite nice. it seems though that they have a unique way to do the legs and even some kind of patent. i wonder if i would be able to replicate that.
sombreuil_mongrel, thanks for the suggestion. does that mean that i would have to sacrifice 3" of the entire cabinet widths if I add the legs? i guess i could do some kind of filler pullouts, but maybe not worth the hassle and extra costs.. sigh...

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 3:00AM
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I'm confused about how the incorporation of the legs is impacted by your cabinets being frameless versus them being full overlay? Either way the legs are going to add to the width of the island that you either add to the island width or adjust the cabinetry width to account for. Are we talking legs or feet? Is the 3" x3" the width and depth or is one of those 3"the height? I believe Casey is talking about full height legs not feet.

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 7:30AM
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caryscott, i was talking about depth and width of leg being 3x3, but i do want to do a full height leg.
i think you are right. full overlay would also have this issue with incorporating legs since the doors and drawers cover all of the frame so there is no place to stick the legs without it affecting the doors/drawers opening. i think there is no way to avoid losing the full cabinet depth if i add on the 3 inch width to do a full leg?

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 1:10PM
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On the left side you have no problem- Legs can be set on the side and be as far out as the door face and still have clearance for the door to open. A panel can be put in between them to finish things off.
That does make the island wider.

The right side is another story.
Some brands allow you to order a narrow blind section in a frameless cabinet. That give you a place to mount a leg or some material to give the look of the leg. That might help on that side.
Whatever you do, you still have to deal with clearances when the doors open.

If you need to save space, since you are talking straight legs, there are ways to make something that looks like a leg but is not solid.

Ultimately the solution is going to be brand specific, so you really want to talk with a KD about this. If your doing a brand that does not allow modifications well I don't know of a nice clean solution.

Note that you want to decide what outlet covers your using and where the required electric outlets go at the same time you solve this or you'll be back at the drawing board.

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 1:52PM
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jakuvall, thanks for the great info! i was planning on doing custom ready-to-assemble, probably barkercabinets. i will ask them to see. i think i am required to have outlets on either end of the island. was thinking i could put it inside the shelf cabinet on the right side, but have to figure out where it would go on the left side. thanks again!

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 2:11PM
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Electric code around here would not count an outlet that is inside the shelf cabinet.

Many inspectors would allow us to get away with one on each end of the island (but not inside a cabinet) even though that the left side outlet would be more than 2 feet away from workable counter. Some inspectors would be stricter and want more. If I were doing the job I'd be checking with the electrician, gc, or inspector before I'd be willing to order.

Can put outlets into legs, easy if hollow but not that hard in solid. Using a matching outlet cover and a better color outlet (lutron) works nicely. Solid legs require shallow outlets so GFI must be on breaker. Usually have a leg at least 3.5" for that (especially decora outlets)...again, check with installer etc. Don't want surprises..."here put a 2" deep mortise in this leg for a shallow box" ..."Huh, a what??"

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 4:01PM
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thanks jakuvall, i will call up the inspector on monday and find out for sure. maybe i need to add some filler space onto my cabinets just to put in the plug now.

    Bookmark   October 27, 2012 at 4:15PM
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