Cantilever addition?

numbersjunkieAugust 29, 2013

I started a new thread for this because I was having trouble posting on the old thread. This is really a new question anyway.

Has anyone done a cantilever addtion? If so, can give me some idea of what it cost just for the structure? I think this may be a good solution to my design issues and may even improve the exterior look of the house. I'm pretty sure the beams run the right way and are fairly robust. From what I've read, I could probably add 2-3 ft this way - I would just bump out the kitchen side not the whole front..

Here is a link to the old thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Range angled in a corner?

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debrak2008

A year or two ago there was an issue of Finehomebulding magazine that featured bumpouts. I remember posting about it. There was at least one kitchen were just a few feet made a big difference. I will try to find a link.

If your library carries it you may want to try to find it.

OK, attached is a link. You can't read the article in full unless you are a subscriber ( I am not). It does give you the issue it was in. If not the library, it may be worth it to buy the back issue or subscribe. I aways loved that magazine. Its great for serious DIYers.

Here is a link that might be useful: bump out issue

This post was edited by debrak2008 on Thu, Aug 29, 13 at 12:10

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 12:06PM
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live_wire_oak

If the bumpout involves any plumbing, or HVAC, or other systems work, it won't be significantly cheaper than a standard addition. It's the first few feet that are the most expensive on any type of addition. And kitchen additions are the most expensive square footage space to add on because of the needed systems work.

If you have a basement or crawlspace, sometimes repurposing the rooms can actually be cheaper than an addition. Look at maybe flip flopping some of the functions of the rooms first before you start to think about any kind of addition.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 12:19PM
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lavender_lass

I remember reading in a remodeling magazine that it's supposed to be easier to add up to 3 feet (cantilevered) as opposed to a 4' addition...mainly because you would not need a new foundation. Not sure how accurate that was...but definitely worth looking into :)

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 12:22PM
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numbersjunkie

I'm not too concerned about moving plumbing and I dont think adding a few feet would require additional HVAC. There is a vent on the side wall fairly close to the end that would be extended. But even if we did need that work, I don't think it would be very expensive. We redid a bathroom there a few years back and had all the plumbing moved, even the toilet and venting. The cost was minimal. Its a rural area and labor costs are very low.

Believe me if there was a way to reconfigure the space I would. One of the main issues I have with the existing space is an entry door that cuts into the main counter run. A slight bump out would solve that issue. The other option would be to move the door but the house is brick and there is no other place to put the door without creating different issues. There are floorplans on the previous thread, so if anyone has ideas on how to reconfigure I would love to know!

Will try to hunt down the Fine Homebuildiong article - thanks!

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 12:38PM
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nehome

I just received a bid for a 2' bump-out for my kitchen including framing, insulation, plaster, roofing and siding at $5500. This would be the incremental cost vs just renovating my existing space. This quote does not mention additional plumbing work but my sink and dishwasher would be on the bump out wall so I would think there would be additional plumbing costs as well. In my case I think the bump out would not look good from the exterior. Although it is on the back of the house, the one window would not be centered unless we moved the sink and window. Most of the bump out pictures I could find had beautiful big windows. From the exterior I think my window would look small in the bump out space. My other concern was freezing pipes although the contractor said if the floor is well insulated that should not be a problem.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 4:11PM
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numbersjunkie

Thank you magarden! You did not say where you live so its hard to know if your cost would likely be comparable, but I think $5500 is definitely a figure that would make me pursue that option. We are on the NC/VA border and not in the mountains so I'm not overly concerned about pipes freezing.

I have already talked to a local contactor about giving me an estimate to move our entry door leading into the kitchen, and we hope to have him come out and take a look at the house soon. I will definitely see what he thinks as far as the cost for a bump out.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 4:42PM
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chesters_house_gw

We did that, in upstate NY. The cost of footings and framing, etc. was a whole lot less than digging a basement. (I don't have the broken out quote in hand.) We added 6 feet, making the kitchen longer (but still just as narrow), while slicing off a deck.Going in the other direction, which would have been nicer as a matter of kitchen design, would have meant serious money, footers or basement, as it would have meant moving the stack, plumbing, chimney, and basement bulkhead.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2013 at 9:55PM
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plumberry

we did a bump out (still under construction) in the master bath and it cost 8-10,000extra (we had plumbing so entirely new foundation) and moved an interior wall as well. when all was said and done we are definitely happy with our larger bath and new layout.
I'm glad we did it because it improved the space & allowed for a better layout.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2013 at 8:53AM
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GreenDesigns

It will depend on which way your roof runs, the material on your exterior, what type of plumbing and electrical may be needed. Just the beam to carry the weight can be 5K. It's a bit more complex in considerations that just attaching a straightforward addition. For instance, "cantilevered" means that you have to have weight on on end to support the overhang. That HAS to be a stamped engineered drawing for permitting sake. Or, it should be, even in a location that has low permitting requirements.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2013 at 9:08AM
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nehome

Numbersjunkie I am in Massachusetts south of Boston. GD now that you mention the beam the $5k number sounds low. I'm assuming you mean that opening up a load bearing wall would require a support beam.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2013 at 11:17PM
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numbersjunkie

Thanks for all the info. I know my floor joists run in the right direction and I don't think a beam would be required for what I want to do. I know from experience that sometimes spending a bit more to alter the existing footprint is well worth the cost. Meeting with a contractor next week to get a better feel for what might be involved. Fingers crossed.

This post was edited by numbersjunkie on Mon, Sep 2, 13 at 0:03

    Bookmark   September 1, 2013 at 11:28PM
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