Appliances with 60-amp service

jdknycDecember 17, 2011

I currently have 60-amp electrical service, and I am redoing my kitchen and installing a 30A, 240V electric dryer. I will have an all-gas range, but would love to have a second oven that is electric - namely one of those "speed ovens". I'm considering the 24" Miele speed wall oven that is 20A, 240V. I'd also love the matching warming drawer which is 15A, 120V. Is this possible?

Or would it be better to try to get a GE Monogram Advantium speed oven which is 15A, 120V? Sorry I'm a newbie to all this electrical info! Thanks in advance!

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petey_racer

You probably actually have a 100A service, with a 60A "lighting main".

You'd be much better served if you replace the panel with a new main breaker 100A panel.

    Bookmark   December 17, 2011 at 3:34PM
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davidro1

Since you are in NYC and have a small amperage, I'll guess it's a small space in an old building. What did you do about dryer ducting? Stovetop exhaust duct?

Any oven that works off a 15A 120V circuit is a bit weak, like a toaster oven. This is true for any manufacturer, any oven, any kind, because power is power is power and no one can change that. My writing it out for you to read is to let you know once and for all, that a 240V circuit is a lot more power. It's actually four times the power when on high, compared to a 120V oven, so it's faster and more stable.

Any appliance which has specs of 15A, 20A, 30A is actually going to draw less than that number of Amperes even when it is on high. So, the rating may mislead you. F.y.i. But, electricians know all this and more. The makes and models are not important. Leave them out. Whether it's "speed" or steam or anything else, whether it's GE or Miele or anything else. You can allocate your total Amps so that whatever power hog is "off" when the other power hogs are on gives you that much more wiggle room. So far I have not written that "yes you can" have it all as per your dreams. I don't know. Only your electrician knows for sure. How you end up handling panels/ subpanels is another subject.

    Bookmark   December 19, 2011 at 2:10PM
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bus_driver

The old 60 amp fuse panels could be either 60 or 100 amps. If removing the pullout on the upper left shuts off all the power, it is a 60 amp panel. The range pullout is to the right and on a 60 amp panel, the left pullout shuts off power to the range. Such panels rarely have more than 4 branch circuit fuses. If the upper left pullout shuts off power to the 4 (or sometimes 6 fuses) below, but the range remains powered, the panel is 100 amp. Often the panels look alike. I have seen numerous true 60 amps services supplying houses with range, electric clothes dryer, electric water heater, water pump, washer, refrigerator and full size freezer with no problems. But that is a really full load.

    Bookmark   December 19, 2011 at 5:24PM
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bus_driver

I wish this site offered the ability to edit. Above, I should have posted that the 60 amp pullout on the upper left of the panel is the main disconnect for the entire panel if the panel is rated 60 amps. Called a series panel if I remember correctly. If the range is not fed through the pullout on the left, the panel is 100 amp rated and is called a parallel panel. That basic style of 60 amp panel dates from 1935 at least and perhaps earlier. All such panels date from prior to 1960 when modular fuse-type panels came into use. By 1975, most residential panels were circuit breaker style.

    Bookmark   December 19, 2011 at 7:26PM
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