rec room wall plate issue

dinosaur1December 24, 2011

No matter what I try I cannot seem to get this metal light switchplate to be flush againt the wall. I can always take a pic behind the switchplate if needed. The electrical box might have to be switched out because the screws go in much easier on the top vs on the bottom. There almost isnt anything for the bottom screws to go into so when you try and tighten them one side tightens and the other side doesn't. Sounds confusing I know. I'm not sure how to explain it.

can I use a two gang old work electrical box instead?

Here is a link that might be useful: pics

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Ron Natalie

I can't see the pic because that appears to be a link into your internal shuterfly account.

The switch plate screws typically go into the switch yoke itself. If they bottom out before the plate is flush it's because the switch is standing too proud of the finished surface.

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 12:52PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dinosaur1

try this one

Here is a link that might be useful: try this one

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 1:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bus_driver

Is the box so crowded behind the device(s) that it cannot fully seat against the face of the box?

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 4:28PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

I looks like the box is not deep enough fr the dimmer & the wire nuts at the back.

Even if the fill is within allowances, you can still run into problems with dimmers.

You might try moving the wire nuts to the other side so they are not behind the dimmer.

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 4:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dinosaur1

what if I get a two gang old work electrical box?
Im also thinking of replacing these metal wall outlets with vinyl.

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 4:54PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Ron Natalie

What the hell kind of hack job installation is this? What is that ridiculous dry wall screw through the box at the top left? How about getting someone with a clue to do you wiring?

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 10:26PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dinosaur1

ronnatalie

here is my dilemna.

The left side of that wall plate is only being used. The right side is just a plastic dud switch.
In other words the right side of that wall plate doesn't connect to a light switch. This poses a problem because the screw cannot go in tight on the right side. How can I modify it?

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 10:44PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dinosaur1

this is what I have on the right side of the wall plate

Here is a link that might be useful: blank insert

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 10:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
yosemitebill

"What the hell kind of hack job installation is this? What is that ridiculous dry wall screw through the box at the top left? How about getting someone with a clue to do you wiring?"

That's great Ron - took the words right out of my mouth! This looks like some sort of Jeff Foxworthy setup for a joke! Masking tape on the top right, dry wall screw holding in a piece of broken plastic on the left, and a little duct-tape in the middle! Oh, I almost forgot, the wood shims crunching in the left side of the box.

Yes, an old-work box may help correct this, but please get someone who has a clue!

    Bookmark   December 24, 2011 at 11:45PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dinosaur1

here are some new pics

Here is a link that might be useful: new wall plate

    Bookmark   December 25, 2011 at 10:20AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
fa_f3_20

You will never get a plate to sit perfectly flat against that textured wall, especially with all that damage to the plaster around the edge of the box. Instead of using that dummy switch, what I'd do is get a medium-size, nylon plate that has the decorator opening on one side and is blank on the other. The blank side will have screw holes positioned to screw directly into the box holes (you may have to get longer screws).

The nylon is more flexible than the typical rigid plastic plate, and the larger size will cover up that chipped plaster around the edge of the box. You'll also want to replace the plate on the adjacent box so that they look the same. I've had pretty good luck finding these type of plates at the big orange box store.

    Bookmark   December 26, 2011 at 10:40AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
electricalkid

Loosen up the screws on the blank plate.

    Bookmark   December 26, 2011 at 2:59PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Billl

Just to state the obvious.... you need to get a razor and clean up all those plaster edges around the box. Nothing is ever going to sit flat on an uneven surface.

    Bookmark   December 27, 2011 at 12:57PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Reuse electrical panel
I replaced a 24 circuit Square D panel with a new 40...
zver11
Need help Replacing old dimmer that used only 2 wires in a three way
I need advice as to which wire to connect to which...
txmat
Spa Capacitor question
My spa is wired for 220v. The pump motor is rated for...
pugmark
Well this sucks
Just when you thought the idiot popup ads in the gardenweb...
Ron Natalie
ARGH! no boxes
Went over to my daughter's house to help them change...
Ron Natalie
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™