2 questions on bulbs for recessed cans

andrelaplume2July 3, 2012

Essentially, in our basement, we will have a set of cans that we would want to be able to dim. I have decided against cfls in this case. I know I need PAR30 bulbs but should I choose regular or Halogen. I have read Halogen will last longer and are more efficient and brighter (when not dimmed). My concern is I thought Halogen got waaaaaay hotter and I am concerned about the extra heat sitting under them as well as any fire issues. The cans are IC remodel and I have fiberglass in the rafters and a dropped ceiling. Thoughts...?

Second, there will be a series of cans that I don't want to dim. They will light the way from the steps to the washer and dyer. These will be the ones the kids forget to turn off! I was going to use PAR30 cfls here. I see they sell PAR40 cfls that are brighter. It looks like they fit in the 6" can however PAR40 is not listed as an optional bulb for the can...then again, no cfls are. Again, I don't want to start a fire or anything...thoughts....?

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Ron Natalie

A 75W PAR30 bulb is going to be the same heat output whether it is halogen or regular incandescent. The halogen capsule is actually inside the larger bulb.

The PAR30 halogen isn't going to consume anywhere near that power or generate an appreciable amount of heat. The biggest issue here is that some of them don't have the best ballast design and can cook themselves to death in a tightly enclosed fixture. You won't know unless you try .

    Bookmark   July 3, 2012 at 3:21PM
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Ron Natalie

The second paragraph above should start out with...
"The PAR30 CFL isn't going ..."

    Bookmark   July 3, 2012 at 3:22PM
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andrelaplume2

thanks for the quick response ronnatalie.

To clarify then, incandescent and halogenn are equally safe an dthrow off the same amount of heat. Is there a real advantage to the halogen...or a negative?

I think I understood you to mean I could use a PAR40....in the can...they will be open....worst case it wont last? I already have 6 of these suckers in a box on my shelf from last year...never used. Again, Par40 cfls...look like they will easily fit the 6" in can....just want to be safe....I think they should be brighter...ratings compared to 90w vs 65w I think....

    Bookmark   July 3, 2012 at 3:41PM
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Ron Natalie

As far as the fixture is concerned, 75 watts incandescent is the same heat regardless of halogen vs. regular. The filament burns hotter in the halogen, but that's inside the quartz element that is inside the "fake bulb" that they put around it to make it a PAR40.

The advantage is that you get more light out of them because it burns hotter, the halogen cycle keeps the hotter burning filament from burning out faster. The quartz envelope keeps the bulb small enough for this all to happen.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2012 at 6:56AM
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andrelaplume2

for th enon dimmable 4 cans I think I will try the PAR40 cfs. It seams they should throw mre light (allbeit after 30 secnds or so), they should be brighter than a comparable PAR30 cfl, and mre economical.

I then need t buy 9 dimmable incandecsents or hallogens. Which do you think I should go with...regular, hallogen...any partuclar brand..

    Bookmark   July 4, 2012 at 2:39PM
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Ron Natalie

Halogens are also incandescent. They'll cost you a little more for slightly better light output but cost more, otherwise about the same.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2012 at 4:32PM
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weedmeister

The point about halogens is that they are brighter for the same wattage. So you can use a lower-wattage bulb. Like a 45w halogen for a 60w incandescent.

I'm not sure, but I don't think halogens like being run at reduced voltage. It lessens their lifespan.

    Bookmark   July 5, 2012 at 3:55PM
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loafer80

weedmeister is correct, halogens can be run dimmed but lessens their lifespan. To counter than, you can run them a full blast once in a while to start the chemical reaction inside the bulb of halogens.

    Bookmark   July 12, 2012 at 7:49PM
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