Applying more stain to doors

ella-2010December 9, 2010

Hi everyone,

Would appreciate some advice.

If I want a stain on a door to be darker, should the next coat go on as soon as the first coat is dry or does the door need to be sanded down a little first?

Thanks in advance,

ella

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
someone2010

I don't know what kind of door your talking about, or what finish is on it now, but a good way to darken a finish a bit is to use an aerosol toner.
Others may have different methods.

    Bookmark   December 10, 2010 at 12:27PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ella-2010

Hi,

Thanks for responding. The door is a maple veneer and originally had a dark stain (jacobean i think) and a poly finish. It was sanded, wiped and a coat of ebony stain put on it. Still not as dark as I would like though.

ella

    Bookmark   December 12, 2010 at 10:44AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bobismyuncle

Stains are usually meant to go on bare wood, not already finished wood. The exception to this is a gel stain that when used this way becomes a glaze. There is a limit, though in how much darker you can go before the finish starts to look muddy and opaque. Glazing technique More

Here is a link that might be useful: Glazing

    Bookmark   December 12, 2010 at 6:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ella-2010

Hi bobsmyuncle,

Thank you so much for the link - very helpful indeed! I do believe that's what the builders will do ie glaze. They will then give it 3 coats of tung oil, as i understand it.

Appreciate your help,
ella

    Bookmark   December 13, 2010 at 10:17AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bobismyuncle

There is "true" tung oil, and there are 10 times as many things called "tung oil finish" that are not tung oil and do not contain any tung oil. Depending on the brand, they are either thinned varnish, AKA wiping varnish, or a (linseed) oil-varnish blend. Neither of these types are bad products, it's just not what you think they are if you read the label. Real tung oil is relatively expensive, hard to use successfully, and not appropriate for over-coating another finish.

Here is a link that might be useful: Oil finishes and other misleading labels.

    Bookmark   December 13, 2010 at 2:22PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
texasredhead

The OP still hasn't established whether this is an interior or exterior door. I think that will have a bearing on the type of stain and finish.

Consering tung oil, I have restored finishes on antiques where I have removed the finish but retained the patina followed by several hand rubbed coats of tung oils. It produces a very firm durable finish. BTW, I use Old Masters brand tung oil.

    Bookmark   December 14, 2010 at 9:14AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Refinishing bedroom furniture
Hi everyone! Need advise please. We refinished a computer...
glittergirl_tx
What sealer for reclaimed redwood deck?
We have old growth redwood from a water tank that DH...
Honu3421
Can this door be repaired?
We're renovating a 1920 house and this bedroom door...
weedyacres
Refinishing oak furniture
I fell in love with a very large (11 feet long) piece...
kjreif
How extensive does Cherry wood (Cabinet) darken ???
We plan to stain our cherry cabinet to burgundy/red...
mcook
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™