I need to take 3/16'' off 11 doors width. What is the best way to accomplish this? I have been using a hand plane which is getting it done but is time consuming.
Best use for a hand power planer.
If you own or have access to,
Power hand plnaer
Table saw, requires sufficent rip capacity of course.
Straight router bit w/top mounted bearing. Bearing rides a straight edge template at least wide as router base.
A good power hand saw and edge guide
I used a circular saw to do mine. I used the straight edge linked below, plus the optional screw-on 'wide jaws' accessory.
If you decide to to it this way:
Get a new, thin kerf ultra smooth cutting blade with lots of teeth.
It is best to scribe the door surface, at the edge of the cut toward the door, with a utility knife. Cutting the surface fibers should greatly reduce any chipping issues.
Tape the surface with blue tape before cutting, to reduce chipping and to protect the door from the base of the saw sliding along it.
Here is a link that might be useful: Emerson All-In-One clamp
I have all the tools listed. Good ones. The tool of choice for trimming doors is a circular saw with a straight edge guide. I have the festool system that costs over a thousand dollars. It's really nice. But I still use the old worm drive skill saw with a Freud Diablo wood cutting blade, and a site-built straight edge guide, and get exactly the same results.
The reason this beats out all other methods is there is the least chance of error with the most accurate results.
When you make the cut, use a piece of painters tape on the top side of the door centered over the cut line. Stick it on the surface right before you clamp on the straight edge guide. With the edge guide in place, skor the line with your knife, just a hair to the inside of the cutting edge. (A hair to the side that will be kept) The saw blade cuts the bottom side clean without any tear out, so there is no need to put tape or skor the bottom surface of the door. After you make the cut peel away the tape. Be careful to peel downward, not upward, so the veneer or finish doesn't peel. The skored line will prevent any blade tear-out from continuing onto the work piece. Sand the skored corner off to achieve a perfect edge with a crisp cut line and slightly rounded corner.
Jointer with the grain at the end pre scoured at the cut line to avoid blowout.
Light sanding to open the grain and finish to match.