Support of Stainless countertop, butcherblock or plywood?

drake64November 29, 2012


Redoing my kitchen with an old ikea stainless sink/counter top (now discontinued). The sink and countertop are all pressed together.

Since the existing counter top is kind of flimsy I would like to attach some backing underneath (probably using a construction adhesive).

I tend towards 2 3/4 sheets of plywood. My friend holds out for butcherblock countertop.

What do you think? Why? Goal is to make the countertop more stiff without to much work.

Thank you for your time, please let me know if I should post this somewhere else.


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The kitchen forum might be more useful. Post a pic of the cabinets and the sink/countertop combo.

A single sheet of 3/4 plywood, cut out for the sink, might be support enough.

    Bookmark   November 30, 2012 at 11:30AM
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Thank you Ill see if I can learn how to post photos. The things I have tried did not work.

it is an ikea varde sink 300.512.67.

Im modifying it to use with regular cabinets. Kind of a pain but at $15 its hard to pass up.

I have found pictures on the web but not smart enough to post them here.

Hey maybe I am!

Also now looking into NewWood instead of plywood. Lots to learn.

Thank you.

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   December 4, 2012 at 9:51PM
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Fori is not pleased

I've had stainless steel sink/counter combos installed in two kitchens and both fabricators used plywood to support the thing. I don't think it'll matter as long as it's, you know, stiff. :)

Isn't butcherblock kinda pricey for that? (Although the Ikea BB is quite reasonable...)

Love that Varde sinktop!

    Bookmark   December 4, 2012 at 11:48PM
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Thank you. Yes BB is expensive but so is ABX plywood ($90 per sheet) and I only need 57 inches by 25 inches. I may double it for stiffness, considering using plywood and 2 steel tubes (I already have them for another project).

I was thinking about using NewWood (kind of like osb with grocery store bags mixed in under pressure) Looks pretty neat I have had a piece sitting in water for 48 hours now and there is no difference! but emails are bouncing with a notice that makes me think they are no longer around.

Back to plywood, now I need to pick out the right glue. Suggestions welcome. Thanks, I think it will look pretty neat after it is done.

    Bookmark   December 5, 2012 at 5:29PM
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You don't need ABX plywood to support a sink. The first two letters refer to the quality of the face veneers, with A being the best. X means it has an exterior grade adhesive. BCX or CDX would be fine and less expensive ($25 for a 3/4" sheet of BCX around here).

Rather than steel tubes, some angle iron should stiffen things considerably.

    Bookmark   December 5, 2012 at 11:05PM
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The problem with butcher-block is that solid wood will expand and contact seasonally. In 25" you are looking somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2" of expansion, depending upon the swings in humidity, the wood species, and the growth ring orientation of the wood components. BCX would be my choice, too. Rough cut, glue them C-side to C-side, trim the edges.

Too bad you need 25"; if it was just less than 24" you could get out of one sheet. If money's important, you could edge glue some solid stock on one edge and get it.

    Bookmark   December 7, 2012 at 11:43AM
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Thank you for the tip!

What adhesive do you guys recommend?

I like your tag (bobsmyuncle)!

    Bookmark   December 7, 2012 at 8:06PM
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Thank you! Money is always important but I try to remember penny wise pound foolish. I can always find a use for a chunk of plywood!

I suspected as much, main reason I was considering butcher block is I will have about that much left over after I finish the rest of the counters. But a nice table is always useful, seems a shame to hide that nice wood under stainless.

Thank you so much!

    Bookmark   December 9, 2012 at 1:31AM
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