Bathroom Molding Issue - Need Help!

denifitzOctober 20, 2010

I am trying to clean up a mess made by a bad contractor. We have an alcove tub, and on the outer walls of either side, he ended the wainscoting and trim abruptly, without any other trim. Unfortunately, the gap on the right hand wall is about one inch wider than that on the left. (See link to pictures below.) Whatever solution will have to account for that. I was thinking about regular casing molding, and I put some up but it looked ridiculous where it met the baseboard and crown. Should I use cove molding? With the cove, there is no way it will be deep enough to merge with the end of the wains cap molding. Also, I have limited skill - I can handle cutting moldings, but I am by no means a woodworker.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of problem

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lazy_gardens

Don't try to hide it, finish it the way he should have. Any other thing will look like it's covering up a botched installation.

Add enough wainscot to complete the panel on either side of the door. You might have to buy another panel of it if there are no scraps, and remove part of the installed stuff so you don't have a tiny strip at the door.

Remove the molding from the door to the wall and cut a new piece that is long enough to fill the wall. Use the removed molding to wrap around the door frame like the baseboard does.

    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 9:55AM
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someone2010

Where do you want the wainscot to end? Where it ends now? At the end of the wall? Or to wrap around the wall and cover the inside of the opening? Or to wrap around the wall, wrap around the opening, and end against the tub?

    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 7:28PM
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someone2010

Wherever you want to stop the wainscot, the end of the chair rail should be mitered and returned. Here's how you do that.
1. You cut the end of the chair rail at a 45 degree angle just as if you were going around a corner.
2. You cut a piece of scrap chair rail at a opposite 45 degree angle starting at the inside corner. One side or the triangle should be the outside face of the scrap chair molding. It will be the exact thickness of your chair molding.
3. Now you can glue your piece onto the end of the chair molding and clamp with tape or spring clamps till the glue dries.
This will give your chair rail a finished look on the ends.
You can probably find a picture of this if you google "mitered and returned molding".

    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 8:11PM
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lazy_gardens

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?pn=Cutting_Mitered_Returns&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=2#

Good explanation with pictures

    Bookmark   October 25, 2010 at 7:52AM
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denifitz

It was supposed to end at the end of the wall but I was wondering how that would look to have raw beadboard just stop and stick out from the wall. My other issues is there is metal stripping that goes all the way up the corner of the wall.

Thanks for your advice everyone!

    Bookmark   October 25, 2010 at 10:26PM
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someone2010

You can have the beadboard stop short of the end of the wall or at the end, whatever you prefer. The metal strips sound like the ones used on drywall corners.

    Bookmark   October 26, 2010 at 4:03AM
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