Low odor mineral spirits vs 100% mineral spirits

2ajsmamaOctober 10, 2008

Next installment in the continuing saga of the CL coffee table. For those of you who missed the first 2 posts, I bought table from CL that was scratched, tried cleaning with low odor MS, then spray lacquer. It fisheyed and the scratches didn't come out. Stripped with Citristrip and after-strip wash, followed by low odor MS. Tried wiping stain and it fisheyed. Wiped off excess, posted. On someone's advice here, tried wiping with denatured alcohol figuring silicone from polish had gotten into pores. No good, could still see shiny dark spots (pinpricks) from stain sitting on surface. Called Minwax, they said low odor MS will cause problem with their stains, penetrating or gel not sinking into wood. Recommended 100% MS followed by 220 grit sanding. So, I tried sanding 1st before running out for 100% MS. Pinpricks of the coat of stain I wiped on and off 2 days ago are bleeding through as fast as I can sand them.

So, do I:

1) get 100% mineral spirits, wipe and sand again?

2) strip with Citristrip and wash, then use any particular kind of mineral spirits?

3)????

I was under the impression that low odor was 100% MS, I could try naptha but I believe the only difference is drying time (boiling point).

I plan on following up with a gel stain custom mixed to match color, rather than a penetrating stain. I think it'll give a more opaque look - tried a bit on corner, seemed to get pretty dark but after wiping off excess could still see pinpricks and don't want a problem with the finish. TIA

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brickeyee

The low odor mineral spirits are slightly more refined to remove the strongest smelling contaminants.

Mineral spirits is a witches brew of hydrocarbons, defined mainly by the condensation temperature.
'Stoddard Solvent' is the typical chemical name.

Naphtha is more volatile, and tends to have fewer contaminants.

Paint thinner is a decent compromise for cleaning wood and most finishes.

If the wood is silicone contaminated you can purchase 'fish eye eliminator' to add to the finish.
It is pure silicone, and allows the finish to wet over existing silicone.

There are a number of barriers that can also be applied to isolate the silicone contaminated wood.
Shellac usually work swell.
A thin coat of 2 pound cut shellac will usually cover and seal.
If you still have a few fish eye spots, you can apply more shellac over them to try and seal.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2008 at 1:29PM
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2ajsmama

Thanks Brickeye. I wiped again w/ low odor, then sanded, got the stain bleeding back up through in pinpricks through the sanding dust, wiped down again and it stopped. So now, try gel stain, then shellac, then lacquer finish? Or just shellac finish at that point (and don't worry about matching lacquer on legs)? I wouldn't think the gel stain would do anything but sit on top of shellac, so you don't put shellac on first, do you?

    Bookmark   October 11, 2008 at 4:25PM
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brickeyee

Shellac is used to limit absorption of stain when needed (end grain, blotchy wood like cherry).

Gel stain is designed to do the same thing, so if you are using gel stain you probably do not need a shellac wash coat.

Gel stains are still pigment stains, so all they ever do is sit on the surface.

Aniline dye is about the only thing that actually penetrate (along with some of the chemical tricks).

    Bookmark   October 12, 2008 at 11:08AM
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bullheimer

why you want to listen to an electrician tell you about wood work? well since you do, i might as well chime in as well since i'm an electrician too. contrary to popular belief wood DOES conduct electricity. well, when it's wet anyway.
do NOT shellac first before staining. didn't you know shellac is a SEALER!!! READ THE CAN! seals metal even. As for gel stain, all the fir i have stained with it sucks it right down.
I don't see any diff btwn the non odor and regular stank mineral spirits. After using both i would never buy regular again! You must not have sanded down far enuf to get past the silly cone or whateva.

You should do what i did on my fir. STAIN IT, once or twice or whatever. i have been using three kinds to duplicate the 103 yr old crap in my house. i used mahogany minwax gel stain followed by a custom mixed liquid oil based stain, next an oak minwax stain. i have been using poly clear coat but now i use amber shellac after the stain and you can NOT use a poly varnish over that it must be oil based (again, read the shellac can). for what i need i am very happy with the staining, 2-3 coats of amber shellac, then i may or may not coat again with an oil based clear. in some cases after the stain i have used only TEAK OIL for 2-3 coats and then TUNG OIL (which is varnish btw). I think to get the closest original look of my 100 yr old fir, with a yellow to gold grain, that avoiding the mahogany gel coat and just staining and usinig the teak and tung oil is the closest match. and for fixing scratches nothing beats wiping it down with teak oil. it be da bom. peace out and vote for obama-lomma-ding-dong!

    Bookmark   October 20, 2008 at 7:36PM
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