4-prong to 3-prong 220 adaptor
I am in the US. I had an older Asko stacking washer and dryer set. The washer was plugged into the back of the dryer, which plugged into a big current-code 4-prong 10/3 wiring outlet. The dryer died (dead motor), and we dragged it to the curb and posted it for scrap on Craigslist, so it is gone.
The washer has a 3-prong small male 220 plug that plugged into an outlet on the back of the (now-gone) dryer. This is not a big male plug (like the old dryer/range plugs), but rather one that at first glance would appear to be a standard grounded 110V plug, but indeed has the funny pattern of one of the flat prongs being sideways. I assumed when said dryer was discarded that the washer was a standard 110V grounded plug and I could plug it in and use it plus some fresh air to dry clothes until the new set is delivered next week. This is clearly not to be.
Soooooo. here I sit with a large current code 4-prong female outlet on the wall, hooked up to 10/3 wiring, and a washer full of now-mouldering wet clothes with a small 3-prong male cord. And the switch to pop the door open requires electricity to open.
I went to Big Orange and picked up a 220V outlet that would accommodate the small 3 prong male plug on the washer in order to plug the washer in for 15 seconds and pop the door. I am not intending to actually do any loads of laundry. Upon removing the 220 outlet from the wall, I realize that I am not 100% sure how to wire this for its 15 seconds of glory.
Circuit breaker is OFF--triple-checked and taped down. From the wall I have red (hot), black (hot), white (neutral--needed only for the 110 operations of the washer if any, from what I understand), and a bare copper ground. The new 3 prong outlet has spots for hot and hot (for Red and Black wires) and a green ground screw.
The question of the day: Where if at all does the white wire get hooked up to the smaller 220V outlet? I will just be operating the door latch once and unplugging, then reinstalling the 4-prong dryer 220V outlet.