Teak din table. I like the sanded look w/o a finish. Protection?

dcsamAugust 6, 2014

Our teak dining table was in dire need of a makeover. I've sanded it, then used a dark Minwax oil stain. It was too dark, so I sanded much of it off, and now my husband and I love how it looks. The dark stain remains in some of the grains, and the overall look is more 'rustic'. We'd like to keep it just it as is. But I can tell every oily finger, a dab of butter... Is going to create marks. I bought Minwax natural color and did a test sample. But that brings out too much of the reds and golden hues I'm trying to avoid. I test sampled polyurethane - same thing. What can I put on this table that will protect it, but maintain the color it is now?
I really appreciate your input. I've done a lot of online research to no avail. Most people would never do such a thing to teak, but we're liking it so far.
Thank you.
Caroline
WA state

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HandyMac

Water based poly or varnish do not add the amber tone you discovered with oil based finishes.

The water based finishes look milky blue as applied, but dry completely clear.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 3:04PM
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bobismyuncle

anything you put on it is going to change the look and feel.

You are wise, though to test your proposed finish schedule in an inconspicuous spot (like underneath).

You are also wise to predict that one spilled glass of red wine, errant meatball or pat of butter is going to leave a stain. A lot of people who love the "reclaimed wood" look don't realize this.

Also be aware that teak has a lot of natural oils that may inhibit the curing of many finishes. A wipe with acetone immediately prior to finishing will remove the oils from the surface and give you a better chance of success with whatever you decide.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2014 at 7:00PM
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CEFreeman

Noooo!
Stop.
Pick yourself up some nice General Finishes water-based 'Dead Flat Varnish' finish. Or, Beautiful makes a matte finish, Water based sealer. I think BM actually offers a matte finish now, but I have no experience with it.

I'm telling you, though, put this stuff on and you'll wonder if you actually did once it dries.

I have also very, very successfully used paint base. Far less expensive! Pick up some Latex, Exterior, FLAT, DARK (sometimes called a 4 or 5) paint base. It goes on white, but dries invisible. I'm not kidding that you'll will be absolutely amazed. I've used Behr and Olympic so far.

I used the 1st two items on a door (each side) I left in the yard for a year to get it to chip. Not only did it adhere the chips (like decoupage) but you can't tell how or where. They don't leave a glued-on looking finish. Just invisible.

The paint base, I used to make some stuff chippy. I put it all over another door, then used a crackle finish on it. (Protecting the natural wood underneath.) When the crackle dried, I rubbed it with stain and it came out so incredibly cool. But the natural wood was perfect and preserved.

So, there are solutions.
Teak is a tough one as mentioned because of the oils in it. Definitely use the acetone first.
A lot of people who love the "reclaimed wood" look don't realize there are matte finish products available. And I'm not talking satin. I'm talking 3 invisible options here.

    Bookmark   August 10, 2014 at 10:44AM
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