Interior doors

jscozzJuly 1, 2007

Seems like the best forum to post this question...

I am looking for interior doors for a new home. I want the solid feel of real wood doors... so hollow core, thin are out... my question is, do the Masonite solid core 1-3/4 doors REALLY have the feel of real wood, or do I really have to go with real wood to get the solid feel? The doors will be painted anyway, so I am open to anything that "feels real." If I need to go to real wood, what is best... poplar or pine? Will I get a lot of warping and problems with real wood that will not justify the jump from solid core Masonite?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I hear you! I was the same way, however, by the time we priced out 64 doors for our home, uh... I changed my mind. :)

I did go with some kind of pre-hung door from HD that was 90 minute fire rated, 6 panel door for all of the bed rooms and bath room doors. They had to be special ordered. The other doors in our house look the same, but are regular Masonite doors with the wood grain markings.

This fire rated door is heavier and gave more sound proofing and 'substantial' feel handling the door. My only mistake was I didn't put one on my laundry room door. I put my laundry room next to my MBr so I didn't have to run clear across the house to do laundry. Thank goodness it helps tremendously shutting my br door if I should let something dry at night.

Do they look like real wood? IMHO, no. Nothing looks like real wood, except for real wood. But my budget was blown was blown by the time reality hit the fan. I was doing good to get DH to let me order the fire rated doors. He did agree that this was a wise investment. :)

    Bookmark   July 2, 2007 at 7:54PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Hi - I just joined the forum and I'm a woodworker by profession.

Poplar is the best wood for painted applications - it accepts paint well and can be sanded to a very smooth finish. Pine can too much residual sap in it and it will sometimes bleed thru the paint. It's also a bit harder to cover with paint.

Kiln dried wood should not warp or twist. The major consideration in using real wood is the seasonal expansion/contraction. In poplar it's minimal and the usual spacing around the door itself will accomodate it. When building solid wood furniture I have to compensate for the seasonal change in the design by using "moveable" joinery.

    Bookmark   July 14, 2007 at 9:34PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Wood working plans
I'm sure most here heard of Teds woodworking plans....
Can this door be repaired?
We're renovating a 1920 house and this bedroom door...
What happens to your tools when you die?
I turned 70 this year and suddenly realized that I...
Planing weathered/near rotted lumber?
I was just curious if it's OK to run some old, very...
What sealer for reclaimed redwood deck?
We have old growth redwood from a water tank that DH...
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™