oops, stain over danish oil

sojayJuly 19, 2007

I applied danish oil on new pine and wasn't happy with the color. Then I did the mistake of applying minwax over it to correct the color. I guess the oil has already sealed the wood, because the minwax doesn't take, and also it remains tacky. So I tried to remove whatever residue I could with paint thinner, sanded the piece, and tried again to apply the stain. Oh well, I guess it's a learning experience, but what can I do now to fix the situation?

Thanks.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
kmealy

Danish Oil is usually a blend of linseed oil and varnish, thinned way down. A standard brand is 2/3 tinner, and 2/3 of what's left boiled linseed oil, and the remainder varnish and colorant (if any). As you have guessed. it's sealed the wood and prevented the "penetrating stain" from doing its job as designed.

It's hard to make specific suggestions without knowing exactly where you want to go with respect to the look and feel of the final finish, the color you are shooting for, and where you've been in terms of what is the wood species, the geometry of the piece, if the Danish oil had a colorant, and how much Danish Oil you've put on. Unless you are an experience sprayer, I'll rule out toners. So that leaves two options that I'd consider,

1) Glaze to add some color and seal with another coat or two of finish. Depending upon what you have, you may pick up midway through one of the following processes:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/eamaple.htm
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/mission_oak.htm (see the link at the end of the second URL to see an all-hand-applied schedule)
If you try this and it doesn't work to your satisfaction, proceed with option 2 as a back-up.

2) Strip the finish, start over by sanding, _testing your finish on a piece of scrap first_, then proceeding to restain and re-apply new finish.

Hope that helps.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2007 at 12:21PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sojay

Thanks, I'm trying the sanding method. I've sanded a lot and clogged up a lot of sandpaper, and still see a lot of the initial color. I hope that's just color and that I can stain over it.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2007 at 2:59PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Use a darker shade of 'danish oil'.

    Bookmark   July 20, 2007 at 10:03PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
peterbasile_verizon_net

I used Watco to finish pine molding and now want to paint over it. my questions are can i use a latex or do i have to use an oil based paint?

    Bookmark   June 22, 2011 at 10:57AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bobismyuncle

A good insurance policy would be to put on a thin coat of de-waxed shellac. Then you can do whatever you want.

Shellac forms a barrier coat and a serves as a pore-filler and primer. It will also prevent resins from bleeding through. Walnut tone formulations of Watco have Gilsonite (a tar) as a colorant. Shellac will also seal that in and prevent bleed-through.

You could also use Zinsser's BIN primer, that is a pigmented shellac. You could have the paint store tint it if you want.

Here is a link that might be useful: SealCoat

    Bookmark   June 22, 2011 at 10:23PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Gel stain on stair treads and handrail?
I have read many of the inspirational posts in the...
amt782
Refinishing oak furniture
I fell in love with a very large (11 feet long) piece...
kjreif
How extensive does Cherry wood (Cabinet) darken ???
We plan to stain our cherry cabinet to burgundy/red...
mcook
Finally mounted upper kitchen cabinet to sloped wall!
I finally got my cabinets installed. In particular,...
stripedbass
Removing excess dried tung oil, over wax...
Hello, I was refreshing the tung oil finish on my walnut...
pasigal
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™