Penetrating Epoxy for walnut countertop with undermount sink

library_girlJune 5, 2012


We are having a 10' x 4' walnut plank style counter top made for our kitchen. Because we have read so many wonderful reviews about Osmo Polyx-Oil, we were going to use that to seal our countertop. (food safe, easy to re-apply, looks great)

We plan to install an undermount sink in the counter top. In the kitchen forum, one person wrote that her carpenter used a "penetrating epoxy" around her sink area and Osmo Polyx Oil everywhere on her counter top, but didn't know the specifics. I wrote to Osmo to make sure it wouldn't be a problem and the person who responded said it would actually be a good idea to apply a penetrating epoxy where the sink cutout is and where the sink is attached, as long as the application of it is carefully controlled to not get up on the surface area.

Can anyone recommend a penetrating epoxy that would be suitable for the cut area around our prep sink?


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I've used this penetrating epoxy outdoors, successfully, although on relatively soft wood:

I don't know how far it would penetrate into walnut. As long as the area is out of sight, you might think about topcoating a penetrating primer with a tough paint of some kind. The web site above sells some marine/industrial paints. The proprietor would probably be happy to recommend something.

    Bookmark   June 6, 2012 at 2:26AM
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Be sure to finish both sides or your counter will cup. I've used a bar top epoxy (linked) that has held up for about 7 years now but I don't think that's what you're looking for (too thick).

Here is a link that might be useful: AeroMarine bartop epoxy

    Bookmark   June 6, 2012 at 7:55PM
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I see value in sealing the end grain of the sink cutout particularly well. If you thin the epoxy with its appropriate (often proprietary) solvent, then use a low heat gun, it can get into the end grain quite deeply. But don't burn the epoxy.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2012 at 2:54PM
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Use 100% vinly tape for masking off the surface you want epoxy-free.

Epoxy is self levelling. It will run over the sides and drip off the bottom, leaving little drips. Plan on masking these and removing the tape when the epoxy is set up, but not cured...usually about 12 to 18 hours later.

You can work the epoxy into the side and end grain by brushing it when it is flowable. Multiple coats are necessary. The cool thing about epoxy is it can be sanded away and the next coat bonds seamlessly.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2012 at 4:19PM
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