Handrails help again! (and spindle question)

missy123June 11, 2007

Ok so I am impatiently waiting for my painter to get this all done before our new carpets are in. If he doesn't get this done by tomorrow I plan on water popping them myself. Do I just run a damp cloth over the wood? Can someone run me throught the process so I can see if my painter can pull this off in 3 days. Here is what I am getting done:

Handrails are red oak, sanded already. they also need to do the wood part where the spindles hit the wood next to the carpet. They need to be water popped, stained Minwax Red Mahogany and finished with water based poly.

On another note, all of my spindles are loose (turning)-- how are these tightened? THANKS!

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As I understand "water popping," when described to me, you can run a damp cloth or sponge over the top. If you live in an area with minerals in the water, you might spring 59 cents for a gallon of distilled water. Cheap insurance.

Be aware that if you are using #225 Red mahogany, this is an oil-based stain. You should let it cure at least a week before attempting to top coat with a water borne finish.

If you don't want your spindles to turn, they should have been glued in. I am not fond of nailing them. It creates problems down the road in removal and it creates a stress point, often leading to cracks. If you can't get the spindles out, I'd probably drill 1/16" holes around the mortise area and shoot in some Elmer's or Titebond white glue with a 21 ga. syringe. Wipe off the excess with a damp rag. I'd wait until finishing is done so you don't end up with glue splotches when you stain. Either that or "left-loose; right-tight" -- no wait, thats for screws. ;-)

    Bookmark   June 11, 2007 at 7:13PM
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interesting- thanks for the tips. They ended up coming over and water popping. My floor was done with #225 Red Mahogany and they put 2 coats of waterborne finish on 48 hours later. One was StreetShoe and the other was Bona - soemthing - a sealer. Oh well, it looks great at this point. We shall see! Thanks for the help with the balusters...

    Bookmark   June 11, 2007 at 10:31PM
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I forgot to mention -- if you end up drilling holes, they are less conspicuous if you choose to drill in the open pore sections (early wood). If the hole bothers you, get a matching color (or two) wax fill stick / pencil / crayon and smear it into the hole and buff out with a piece of grocery bag paper.

Here is a link that might be useful: Blend-fill pencils

    Bookmark   June 12, 2007 at 3:49PM
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