Making an interior door

tinanApril 5, 2013

We have a funny little closet near the front entry that houses our hot water heater and utility shut-offs. The door is about 60" wide and 60" tall and is currently a flimsy bi-fold door that doesn't close flat - it bows in in the middle at the hinge. The opening is framed and has trim, too.

I was thinking of replacing it with a slab door to make it blend in better, but of course they don't come in this size, so I would have to build it. What materials would you suggest? Obviously it's rather wider and shorter than a regular door, so a lighter weight would be good. Could I make a frame with 1x2's with a cross brace across the diagonal, then face it with masonite (to be painted to match the wall) and use plywood on the back? I just want a nice flat smooth door that blends with the wall better.

In fact, I'd prefer to make it "disappear" - any suggestions on that - if I remove the trim from the front face and paint up to the edge...

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Look up 'torsion box' for some clues on how to make a large but lightweight panel.

That is what a typical hollow core door actually is.

They just us cardboard for the inner elements.

    Bookmark   April 5, 2013 at 6:04PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tinan

OK so it's basically a grid of supports.

Is masonite a good sheathing to use for painting on the room side or are there better options?

    Bookmark   April 5, 2013 at 6:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Masonite is fine.

It is what many hollow core doors have used for 'skins' for many years.

1/8 inch thick, tempered Masonite.

    Bookmark   April 6, 2013 at 1:08PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tinan

That's what I thought was used for many doors, but I wasn't sure.

    Bookmark   April 7, 2013 at 12:36AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Having cut into way more than my 'fair share' of these doors, that is what the skins are.

    Bookmark   April 7, 2013 at 1:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
chas045

I suppose the torsion box info probably mentions this, but in case they don't: make sure you build your door on a truly flat surface. Otherwise, you will end up with a warped door in the same warp as the surface it is built on. I had exactly your situation, and just winged it with that unfortunate result. Otherwise it was fine and not blatantly obvious, but I always knew it was warped.

    Bookmark   April 8, 2013 at 7:58PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Can this door be repaired?
We're renovating a 1920 house and this bedroom door...
weedyacres
Stripping paint off of beams
Hi folks. We're working on a wonderful 100-year-old...
GaleForce
What is this wood? (Want to match)
When we bought our house we had the first floor floors...
cardinegreen
Wood surface with bad smell
I purchased used entertainment shelf from Kijiji and...
markintosh
golf t horse racing game templete
could someone email me the template for a horse racing...
ziggymaster
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™