Kolbe/Marvin or Blomberg/Fleetwood Windows?

wayhopAugust 7, 2013

Hello all-

We are about to break ground on new construction just south of San Francisco. We thought we had settled on either Kolbe or Marvin windows with AL exteriors and wood interiors. Now having lived at the (primarily west facing site) for 6 months, are a little worried about how quickly the wood interiors will need to be refinished. The sun blazes straight at them from about 3pm on in the summer. I understand that upgrading to 366 low E glass will help but to what extent?

The other option is to go with Blomberg or Fleetwood all AL windows. We lose the visual "warmth" of the wood, but if I am going to go crazy watching the wood finish deteriorate, it might be an OK trade-off.

Anyone with first hand experience?

This post was edited by wayhop on Wed, Aug 7, 13 at 16:04

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Esko

You could use laminated glass on that elevation which cuts out much more UV rays than Low E or use it in conjunction with a Low E to tackle the problem from several angles. It should be noted however that generally laminated glass has a reduced length of warranty.

I would do this before I went to a full aluminum, and I like Fleetwood windows.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 6:19PM
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wayhop

Thanks Esko. I haven't heard of laminated glass. We have to have fire glass (1 tempered pane) in this area. Wonder if it's possible to get laminated fire glass...

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 6:24PM
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Esko

Oh you must be having fun with the WUI code... I have had to deal with that more and more lately. I'm from Monterey and they really push for it in Pebble Beach. Marvin will do Tempered & Laminated together. Not sure about Kolbe but I will check.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 6:37PM
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eastbay10

Are you painting or staining the interiors?

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 6:41PM
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wayhop

Thanks Esko. We're up near Palo Alto and are having fun with ALL of the different codes. Everyone keeps asking why the process of designing and building is taking so long except the architect who thinks we're going too fast (10 months from nothing to approved permits).

My favorite are all of the "temporary" code-abiding things people put in just long enough to pass final and then rip out to replace with what they really want. Clearly doesn't apply to windows, though.

If you have any dealer recommendations for Marvin or Kolbe, we're all ears.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 6:45PM
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wayhop

Hi Eastbay-

(Another local if I have read your postings correctly.)

Our goal is to get a wood we like "naked" and the factory applied clear coat. We had a disappointing sun bleaching issue with Sapele sills in our last house and so we're thinking about going with Cherry which we like in it's young and aged appearances. We will also have 2 NaNa walls that we either have to coordinate woods with or choose to go completely different. (Can't use Kolbe here as the dh is German and he wants that technology.)

I just heard from a Kolbe rep that their double-clear coat qualifies for the 5 year warranty although the written version says no clear coat qualifies. So, I'm a little confused. I don't have a Marvin rep yet so I can't ask the same question there.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 6:54PM
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Esko

resolved

This post was edited by Esko on Fri, Aug 9, 13 at 9:53

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 7:41PM
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eastbay10

I have just done some research on the Marvin website and their clear coat is warrantied for five years which should reassure you. I would also recommend that you use the 366 Low E which is very effective against both UV (protect the finish) and Heat Gain. As for local dealers beside Temple, I would also recommend Don Mancini of Pioneer Millwork and Daryl Tom of Bruce Bauer Lumber for Marvin. I am not familiar with any Kolbe reps in that area.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2013 at 9:09PM
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wayhop

Thank you to all! I now have a number of great leads. Really appreciate the help.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2013 at 7:10PM
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vinylwindowguy

If you are using casements from Kolbe, make sure you check the bottom of the sash for rot at least once a year. The sill design in the past did not allow water to drain off and eventually rotted the bottom of the sash. The solution on replacement sashes was to cut back about an inch of the weather gasket on each side of the bottom sash. Not a really good solution.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 12:12PM
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millworkman

I believe that issue has been fixed for some time now, vinyl.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2013 at 1:10PM
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