Making Cabinet Doors & Warping

CEFreemanMarch 28, 2014

Hello!

I'm working on two, 36" x 12" wall cabinets.
The face frame openings are 8" tall. That's easily made out of a single maple board.

Now, here's my question. Why shouldn't I?
I don't read about this, pro or con, nor see anyone do it.
Talk to me.

Thank you!
Christine

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bobismyuncle

what's your vertical and horizontal measurements for the door and which way do you plan to run the grain?

Normally the grain runs vertically.

Two issues I can think of:
1. Warping and twisting. Chances improve with good selection of wood, preferably straight-grain and quartersawn.
2. Cross-grain expansion and contraction seasonally. Not so bad for overlay doors. Could be a killer for inset doors.

    Bookmark   March 29, 2014 at 10:42PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
CEFreeman

Hmm.
I was planning maple, and it's roughly 8" tall x 16.5 wide. x2 for a 36" wide cabinet.

One of my considerations was the grain, which on doors usually runs vertically. I could piece them together, biscuits or Jig, and cut them down.

I've noticed most doors are more than one board. I was guessing this was for stability?

I'm going inset, which creates its own difficulties. I'd probably piece a Shaker type door, or something with other pieces attached. I think this would prevent twisting.

Just running this through my head. I like to explore all the options. If I see it not done, but it seems ok to me, there must be a reason I'm not seeing it!

    Bookmark   March 30, 2014 at 12:11AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
rwiegand

Most doors are more than one board because narrow boards are cheaper than wide boards. Depending on the care used in orienting the boards (generally none in commercial cabinets) it might make them more stable-- if you flip the orientation of every other board so that the crown varies direction you can (in theory) make a panel that will stay flatter. Some even advocate ripping a wide board and flipping every other one. I would instead choose boards with vertical grain and make sure they're well-equilibrated to your general humidity level prior to jointing and planing to thickness. It's also important to use construction methods that allow for the wood movement--floating panels, slotted screw holes, avoiding cross-grain joints, etc.

I've used cherry and maple boards up to 28 in wide in tabletops and they work just fine. 8" should be easy with just a little care in picking the boards.

    Bookmark   March 31, 2014 at 12:42PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bobismyuncle

16.5" boards are going to have significant movement seasonally and I would not try to inset them.

If this is your plan, I suggest using maple plywood and edging with veneer tape or solid wood. Plywood will also significantly reduce the risk of warping.

    Bookmark   March 31, 2014 at 10:13PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Removing excess dried tung oil, over wax...
Hello, I was refreshing the tung oil finish on my walnut...
pasigal
Walnut Veneer Issues
Hi, I'd so greatly appreciate your help in identifying...
RChicago
Where can I get this molding?
I need to replace a couple of baseboards and want to...
stripedbass
species of window sill/molding?
I think this is my favorite window pic. Any idea what...
aptosca
Differences in Wood Stains?
I went to purchase some stain to refinish a stripped...
jellytoast
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™