how to use sliding compound miter saw

choochnbobFebruary 3, 2009

I am pimping out my kitchen with some trim and crown molding. I am borrowing my brother's compound miter saw...well that's what I was expecting but this dawg is a huge mosnster , and heavy. It's not just a small bring the blade down type, it slides too back and forth too. It's a Makita LS1013 10 inch blade. He's too busy to ask for help so does anyone have any idea where there might be an instructional video for this type of beast lurking?

Thanks!

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furnone

You can download a free user's manual in pdf format here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Makita LS 1013 User Manual

    Bookmark   February 3, 2009 at 2:33PM
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mike_kaiser_gw

You brother has good taste in tools, the LS1013 is a very nice saw (and by SCMS standards, pretty light). A SCMS cuts in a "push" fashion but for crown moulding you don't need to use the sliding function at all. In fact you could lock the slide by tightening the rear of the two knobs on the front of the table.

    Bookmark   February 4, 2009 at 2:49PM
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choochnbob

Thanks for so much of your help furnone and Mike. I 've actually got it pretty well figured out thanks to your help and am loving cutting with it. I haven't used the slide yet. I've just had small enough trim that I've used the chop down part. I'd like to keep it that way since the slide is a little scary to me. Frankly the whole darn thing scares me. The only other motorized equipment I've used is a sewing machine, oh and a Dremel so this is a big step up.
Psyched to be doing my kitchen over myself though.
Well, with the help of so many great people on GW.
Thanks,
Chooch

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 8:45AM
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bobismyuncle

I'm late to this party, but just let me add a couple of comments:

The LS1013 is indeed a fine machine. For many years it was the shop workhorse at Popular Woodworking's shop, where they had access to most of the machines available.

Just be careful of the "red zone." My brother nearly amputated a third of his hand, including two fingers by not paying attention while using a miter saw. To this day, some 20 years later, he still doesn't know how it happened. It's easy to get into an awkward position and I've learned to become ambidexterous when working with this tool, so I can operate the saw with the appropriate hand.

    Bookmark   February 7, 2009 at 4:58PM
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choochnbob

It still scares me so I'm very careful. I think out the whole process each time and never just measure and go out and cut. I stand there thinking is this in the right place, is this locked.... You'd think after all my long drawn out thought process,that every cut would be perfect...NOT. I've wasted some wood with ouside bevel cuts turnign out as inside cust and vice versa. I'm learning a lot.
Thanks for the safety reminder. I only have about 10 or so more cuts...hopefully. Then I have to figure out his automatic nailer thingy. Looks like a big stapler attached by a hose to some sort of tank that is pressurized I think. He said that's easy to use.
Does anyone know whether I should paint the trim that I have already cut with the way cool miter saw before attaching it to the cabinets? I was thinking I'd prime it while it is lying flat before attaching it so I won't have to worry about drips until the topcoats. As good as my cuts are, I'm sure I'll need to joint compound or wood putty at least a little so maybe I should attach it and then prime it once it's all attached and joint compounded?
Thanks for all your help. I'm making progress.
Chooch

    Bookmark   February 7, 2009 at 7:17PM
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sierraeast

No offense, but your bro should make the time to come over and give you some basic safety advice on using the saw, nailer, and whatever other tools you might venture into. It doesn't take that long and will give you peace of mind. We all have learned safe tool practices one way or another, whether on site, classes, or figuring it out solo. The latter is not the way to learn when fingers and limbs are at risk as well as your vision.

Good idea to primer before installing trim when you can. Then caulk and fill the fastener holes before topcoats after the install.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2009 at 11:57AM
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mike_kaiser_gw

Pneumatic nailers are easy to use and once you use one, you'll never want to use a hammer again! Just push the nose against the trim and pull the trigger. The small finish nailers don't have any significant recoil but it might not be a bad idea to try it on some scraps. Most nailers have some kind of depth adjustment or you can turn the pressure up or down on the compressor.

Just remember that once you pull the trigger than nail is going and nothing is going to stop it. Keep your fingers at least the length of the nail away from the nose of the nailer. If the nail hits another nail or a knot in the wood, it can turn in any direction, including a complete u-turn back out of the wood.

Don't forget eye protection and maybe ear protection too.

    Bookmark   February 12, 2009 at 7:57AM
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choochnbob

Thanks everyone, the cutting and nailing is done!!! I still have 10 fingers too. Now I have to complete the painting but that's another story. I truly appreciate the help from you all. It was very nice of you to take the time to help me out. Thanks! Oh and the LS1013 is so sweet I may just put it on my Christmas wishlist.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2009 at 12:54PM
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jeannesavelle

Has anyone tried the Milwaukee 6955-20 12" Dual Compound Slide. I only ask this because Milwaukee is not known for the slide Miter Saw and they do not have that many choices?

Here is a link that might be useful: Milwaukee 6955-20 Miter Saw

    Bookmark   February 20, 2009 at 12:50PM
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