mosiac table top

sadie709June 20, 2008


I have a black wrought iron round table(45" diameter) that I would like to cover with a mosiac top. I live in northern illinois. would i be able to leave it out on the patio year round? I'm afraid the weight will make it not so easy to get to the garage over winter. I've never attempted a project this big and am not sure it will be practical in my area

Any advice? If any one has done something like this a picture of your project would be very appreciated. Thanks


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Just make sure you use an adhesive that will take the weather and seal the dickens out of it. Thinset is what I would reccomend depending on your materials.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2008 at 2:28AM
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Also make sure your table is strong enough to support the weight of all you put on top. You didn't say what the top of your table is made of. I have a metal patio table w/the top being made of a metal mesh, but I doubt it'd support the weight of mosaic materials. IF I were to mosaic mine, I'd put a layer of the diamond mesh over the top, then a coat of concrete (1 part Portland to 3 parts sand) b/f mosaicing it w/thinset. That should hold up in any kind of weather. Let us know what you decide, and pictures please.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2008 at 8:00AM
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The table is the standard metal mesh you see in all the box stores. Slowmedown I think you are correct. im not sure it will support all the weight. so i will mosiac the small round matching side table next to the chaise. it has the same mesh top. I thought i would have to use plywood over the top as the base. im not familiar with diamond mesh. how do i create a base for the table lip around the edge?
thanks for the help .

    Bookmark   June 23, 2008 at 8:42AM
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SILVAMAE showed pictures of her experience w/an outside tabletop using plywood - NOT. The diamond mesh is what is recommended by Riana deRaad, the artist that makes concrete garden sculpture. Some of us have taken her workshops. You can find it in the Box Stores - it's what is used in plastering walls. My table has such a teensy lip that I wouldn't worry about that. There are two ways of preping the top. The diamond mesh is only 27", so I'd lay the mesh on the table, use two pieces, "stitch" them together w/19-guage wire. I'd also "stitch" the wire to the table mesh, then trim the diamond mesh around the edge w/tin snips, making your circle, allowing about 1 1/2 or 2 inches extra. I'd snip into that circle and fold the pieces around the lip. The other way - just lay your pieces on the table, stitch it, and snip the mesh up to the lip. After you put your concrete on, I imagine it'll even up at the lip. You can mosaic the table edge w/o the mesh overlay. After you brought this up, it inspired me to mosaic my patio table AGAIN - have been thinking about it. SO, I was thinking that in order to test the weight question, I could put a sack of the mortar mix and a whole bunch of plates/tesserae on top and see what happens. It w/probably hold, but I imagine I'd not be able to move the table by myself anymore. Hope this helps. Worth a try??????? When I run out of things on my list, this might jump in line.

    Bookmark   June 23, 2008 at 9:35AM
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I just finished landscaping the back yard so i need a new project. I can't wait to get started. I moved 3 years ago and gave a ton of spare china pieces away that i had saved for projects cause i got tired of packing. so back to the flea market I go. thanks for the advise. I may give another holler when im up to my elbows in cement!

    Bookmark   June 23, 2008 at 3:55PM
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WAIT!!! Do not use those flimsy mesh patio tables! I dreamed of a table top for 10 year and I finally did the project. It was beautiful, but the mesh patio table (42") could not support it properly and over the course of 2 years the top began to slowly drop around the edges so that you visually could see the middle higher than the edges. Consequently the glass began to crack all over.

There are things I could have done better to mitigate the situation, but I would never do that again. I got rid of the table and put the top out of the way until I have the heart to throw it away. I bought a cast aluminum table which is MUCH stronger and I'm now planning a new top.

SLOWMEDOWN had a good suggestion with the sacks of mortar, but I would put them around the edge to see if it holds up. Initially it may seem strong, but over time.....

    Bookmark   December 15, 2008 at 3:52PM
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Do not use mortar. If you feel the table frame and legs are strong enough to suport the artwork you want to use at least 1/2 inch tile backer board. It comes at Home depot and Lowes in 3x5 foot shhets since your table is 45 inch round you will need to add a couple of small 4.5 inch curved pieces on the narrow sides. I would double it up turning the top 3 pieces 90 degrees to the bottom 3 pieces. Use fiberglass mesh and thinset over the two seems and use a complete layer of thinset between the two layers to laminate them together. NEVER...use wood on any mosaics outside. Even the weatherproof woods like redwood,cedar,and mahoghany will expand and contract with the weather ruining the art.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2008 at 4:34PM
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I hope you realize we are not trying to rain on your parade..just we have all learned the hard way and have Major dissappointments!!! I also would add, that not all plates can handle rain/freezing/cold weather, ceramic plates tend to chip and crumble..grrr...after all my hard work!!! Now I only use glass, marbles, globs, porceline dishes, porceline tiles and slate tiles, rocks, pebbles...

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   December 15, 2008 at 10:37PM
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I found some great metal mosaics at they sell the Earthworks brand and I looked everywhere for 1x2" Brick mosaic thay sell this for $14.99SF does anyone know where you can purchase this from lower?

Here is a link that might be useful: Metal Mosaics Direct

    Bookmark   May 16, 2009 at 9:53PM
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I've been lurking in the background, looking at all the wonderful pictures and reading the posts. what i did for my patio table is have a friend cut a piece of backerboard or concrete board in a circle to the size i wanted. he attached a piece of plywood underneath it. i mosaiced that, then screwed up from the bottom into the wood. dont know how that will hold up in the cold, the wood i mean. but you can try putting the screws into the concrete board from the top and sink them, then mosaic over them, then just drop them thru the holes in the table and use nuts to secure from the bottom. that way you dont have to worry about the wood warping. i live in california so the cold is not a factor. on the table i did the tiles on the top of the table were put on with thinset and stayed on fine but in my infinite wisdom i put them along the sides of the wood and some of those have popped off. but its been 3 years so it held up for a while.

    Bookmark   May 18, 2009 at 11:32PM
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tilemarbleguy14. I have also been looking around for metal mosaics. The best online is they are ran by and have really the lowest prices and I have searched. The samples are really cheap and shipped out same day. The product quality is first class. The Octagon Metal Mosaic is my favorite and priced at only $17.89SF. It is a really good deal.

Here is a link that might be useful: Builders Depot Direct Metal Mosaics

    Bookmark   May 26, 2009 at 2:49PM
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I did my checkerboard table with the backerboard. Screwed it right to the wood. You do have to sink the screws and they make special screws for backerboard. It is for sure the way to go. If you want a grout that will last forever then use Lowes Spectra Lock system.It seals itself and is stain resistant. It's also pricey but well worth it.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2009 at 1:25AM
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Resubmitted on main thread...sorry!

This post was edited by Upstate23C on Sat, Jun 22, 13 at 19:59

    Bookmark   June 22, 2013 at 7:52PM
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