Jenny Lind Bed

junkmamaSeptember 3, 2005

I have my parents old Jenny Lind Bed and it is stained now but I want to paint it white

Would we have to strip it completely or just sand lightly and paint. And is there something to put on as a sealer on top of the paint so it wouldn't wear so much?

Any help will be appreciated so I can tell my DH what to do.

You know everyone needs a supervisor LOL

Thanks Carolyn

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CraftingMomma

Carolyn ... I'd sand lightly and then prime it with something like Kilz or Binn (seals and blocks stains). Once that has dried thouroughly you should be able to paint it any way you like. I've used a spray polyuretane on some small things that I've painted ... But I'm not sure that's what you'd want to do with a big piece of furniture. Someone else will hopefully have some experience in this area and can give you a recommendation.

Joyce

    Bookmark   September 3, 2005 at 1:40PM
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junkmama

Thanks a lot Joyce for the advice. I'll tell him about those 2 products you mentioned. I don't think he has ever used that before.
Hope you are having a great weekend.
Carolyn

    Bookmark   September 3, 2005 at 1:50PM
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firstjois

I agree with Joyce: I'd sand lightly and then prime it with something like Kilz or Binn (seals and blocks stains). Once that has dried completely you should be able to paint it any way you like. I do a lot of this kind of painting and have found that interior wall paint (and I usually use flat) does a great job of getting the color down that I want. Then you need to use something like polyurethane or polycrylic to finish the bed off.

I have to read and re-read the cans every time to check on whether or not the poly turns white paint slightly yellow or not. One kind is better than the other regarding yellowing. Not sure if it is the polyurethane or the polycrylic. Whether the surface is flat (like the side rails) or curvey (like the spindles) you might want to use wipe-on polyurethane instead of brush on polyurethane and by wipe on it means you have to dilute it with some turpentine. My guess after 8 PM is 1/8 cup turp to 7/8 cup polyurethane. Use a non-shedding cloth and just wipe it on. Wipe on three coats. Let dry between coats no matter how long it takes. With the polycrylic you can just wipe it on with a non-shedding cloth without diluting but check the cans before using!

Give the finished bed 24 hours to one week to harden up before using. I guess it depends of the weather where you live, I always try to shoot for a week anyway.

Jois

    Bookmark   September 12, 2005 at 8:33PM
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junkmama

Jois thanks for the advice. I will let my hubby read your post. Oh and we live in Houston where it is HOT. So guess it should dry quick huh.
Thanks again.
Carolyn

    Bookmark   September 13, 2005 at 10:54AM
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firstjois

Oh, Houston! I was there for two weeks and it's the only place I've every been where my hair dried in seconds - go from the shower to the outdoors and Ta Da! hair dried. Oops, yes, I stopped between the shower and the outdoors to put on clothes but I probably would have dried faster naked outdoors, too.

Hope you are all okay there.

Josie

    Bookmark   September 26, 2005 at 3:10AM
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junkmama

Josie, we are OK but was without power for 49 hours. Your hair wouldn't have dried here at my house the last couple of days. Be wet from pure sweat. A shower and shampoo is sure going to feel good. Washing clothes now. Then a shower.
I had posted earlier but guess it got lost

Carolyn

    Bookmark   September 26, 2005 at 1:56PM
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dgodwin

Thanks for Jenny Lind bed restoring info. Mine was my wife's grandmothers circa late 1800's, but poorly stored by my daughter. Polyeurathane sounds good since one spindle still has good varnish which has lasted. But what class!

Being a Texas Aggie and knowing Houston humidity, I now prefer Arizona 10% humidity where backporch clothes drying is ready to fold after last ones are hung. Open car windows make great hair dryers for those who still have hair.

    Bookmark   December 3, 2008 at 2:02AM
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