Why do m&p over cp soaps?

iracountrygirlJuly 23, 2003

Could someone explain to me why one over the other? I am getting ready to try to make my first batch of soap and had intended to make cp soaps but now I wonder what attracts someone to the m&p soap making.

Thank you for taking time to help me.

Connie

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Hazel_SC

Well, I did both for a time. Started with M&P, added CP, then discontinuned it, & just stuck with M&P.
Several reasons involved.

  • First, I am way to impatient to wait 4-6 weeks before I can wrap & sell the CP.
  • My M&P is highly scented, & at the craft shows I sell WAY more M&P than CP, because the colors are more viberant, & the scent stronger.
  • M&P is more forgiving of boo-boo's than CP-measurements don't have to be as exact & you still get a good result.
  • I was really disapointed with some of the batches of CP. If you add color, you might have a really great color when you pour, but 24 hrs later its totally different, & by 4 weeks later it can be a whole other shade altogether.
  • Also, scent is totally different in CP than in M&P. I can use the exact same scent, in the same preportions, in a batch of each kind of soap & get 2 completely DIFFERENT scents. The chemical recation caused during the saponification process has a tendency to change some scents really drastically. Make sure you use a brand/scent that has been tested in CP soap, because some scents will cause the CP soap to seize up. Not all lavenders, magnolias etc are the same.

Best bet is to try both & see what YOU like to do. Some people LOVE making CP, some hate it. I do have a recipe to make HP soap, which you can use pretty much immediately, BUT I haven't gotten around to playing with it......
For me, personally, I like knowing that I can sit down & in a little over 2 hours have 60 bars of soap done in a bunch of different scents, as opposed to stirring a batch of CP forever & getting 28 bars of the same scent of soap.

Good luck with your first batch of CP. Let us know how it turns out--we want pictures! LOL!! (We always want pictures!)

Hazel

    Bookmark   July 23, 2003 at 9:40PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sriston

Ditto what Hazel said. My sentiments, exactly. I have never tried HP, either, but I may give it a shot someday.
Susan

    Bookmark   July 24, 2003 at 8:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
iracountrygirl

Hazel & Susan- Confuse me just tiny bit more :) what the heck is hp soap?

The reason I started this thread was because my source for beef suet fell through. Now I need to rethink what I'm going to do.

Can any of you give me a basic recipe for a first time soap maker? Any kind of "p" you use and can guide me through making mine will be fine! lol!

Thanks!
Connie

    Bookmark   July 24, 2003 at 1:15PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Hazel_SC

Connie,
Hot process soap is made with the basic same ingredients as cold process. The only difference is it is process with heat, either stovetop or crockpot. It is heated to a higher temp than CP & when it is set up it is basically useable. (If you check google or another search engine & type in hot process soapmaking you can probably get tons of info)

The same with CP-search engines will have tons of recipies, most make with vegetable shortening & olive oil, and/or coconut, & palm oils. Basic recipes have vegetable shortening & oilve oil, lye & water.

I have added a link for the crockpot method for HP soapmaking for you to check out. Some of the pics aren't there, but....
Hope this helps somewhat.........

Hazel

Here is a link that might be useful: crockpot soapmaking

    Bookmark   July 24, 2003 at 4:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Brent

The M&P soap is more"crafty", and the CP soap is more pioneerish. You do not use lye with M&P (this can be the dangerous part). If you have little ones around, kids or pets, extra precautions need to be followed.

HP, hot process, is carried out the same as CP, but as was mentioned already, there is additional heat added from an external source.Once you have made CP soap you will know about the extra heat comment.
HP can be a little finicky than CP and until you get good at it, it will look more "rustic" than CP, but you can use almost immediately.
I used to be on some forums (many have died a long the way), but the last one I participated in was www.thesoapdish.com
hth

    Bookmark   July 19, 2005 at 1:12PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sriston

I, too, find the Soap Dish helpful at times but it seems to me that it targets mostly the CP/HP soapmakers. I make M&P and rebatched soap. A forum that is very useful to me is bathandbeautyforums.com. They have much better coverage of M&P soapmaking than the soapdish does, although that forum is not as active as it once was.
Susan

    Bookmark   July 21, 2005 at 3:13AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sara-s

Personally, I use M&P for safety reasons;I don't want to handle lye in my kitchen. And also for convenience- it's already soap, so you just have to add color and scent to get what you want. I suggest letting it cure, but all that is needed is about 24 hours, not weeks.

    Bookmark   January 30, 2007 at 12:23PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Brent

Hi Country Girl, I am seeing no responses here so I'll chime in. M&P does not require any lye, just melt and pour, and M&P (imo) is more crafty. You are able to add designs and inserts on and into the bars when they're being made. Lye can be dangerous, potential hazard to self, children and animals, storage may be a problem as well if you have excess lye around. hth

    Bookmark   January 31, 2007 at 5:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Brent

This is a note on Hazel's comment about stirring your arm off. Without a lot of money you can pick up a stick blender from a thrift shop for a couple of bucks; I bought 2 of them for $8 Cdn, and I am still using the first one for the last 6(?) 7 years. With these I can bring 10 pounds of soap to trace in less than 15 minutes (with a water discount, of course). Also, having a good scale is a necessity for accurate measuring; not those spring scales, please!With an accurate scale you will not have to rebatch the mistakes and waste a lot of time not only grating the booboos, but wondering where the heck you made a mistake when the soap doesn't turn out:)

    Bookmark   February 7, 2007 at 7:44PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
christinah

I thought I'd chime in as a pro CP person. I've done both methods, but personally prefer CP because I like the feeling of making something from scratch. I know what goes into my soap from beginning to end, which is great for me since I have sensitive skin.

CP is definitely a lot more labor intensive than M&P, but I find it relaxing and therapeutic.

It's also much more complicated since you're working with lye, and ingredients that you might put into M&P soap with no problem will turn out all different sorts of ways when you introduce it to lye.

It's even MORE complicated if you're interested in designing your own soap recipe because it involves balancing chemical reactions and understanding the various properties of different oils. I love it, though, because it appeals to my geeky side. And once you learn it, it's not that difficult.

Anyway, I agree with Hazel. Try both and see what you personally like. You might want to start with M&P to break yourself into the whole experience. That's how I started. I later moved into CP once I'd tried M&P.

Good luck!

    Bookmark   February 10, 2007 at 4:49PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
rick_marion

Is the melt & por Soaps an all natural soaP ? I was looking for goats milk M&P and was just wondering.

Thanks

    Bookmark   August 12, 2007 at 11:47AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ldpiper

http://greenleafcandlesupply.com

MELT & POUR SOAP BASES

NO SLS, SLS Derivatives or Parabens!

We are proud to offer you SFIC Corp. all natural, high quality Melt & Pour Glycerin Soap Bases. These bases can be colored, scented and then poured into bar molds, shaped molds, loaf pans - your imagination is the limit.

SFIC soap is 100% real soap and not a combination of detergents and or surfactants, which are erroneously called soap. Surfactants and detergents are derived from crude mineral oil ('motor' oil). By blending them, a so-called 'Syndet' bar (synthetic detergent bar) is produced. These bars foam and wash well, may even be made in a transparent form, but deteriorate the skin with time. Their damaging action on the skin is usually diminished by the introduction of some additives which reduce this negative effect.

    Bookmark   August 21, 2007 at 10:50PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
juanap26

I am 69 years old and started making soap earlier this year. I know that I am not as sharp as I used to be, so I prefer to avoid the use of lye or anything else that might create a problem. The clumsiness that has manifested itself with me says that M&P is the way to go.

    Bookmark   December 4, 2007 at 6:03PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Adhesion problems when making candles
Ive tried all the different things that I have read...
BGlowik
making candles from old wax?
I am sure many have done this already. Few questions....
bertman_gw
New pouring/melting pot discoloration
Hi all, I'm new to this forum and candle making. I...
BeHappy1
soy candle wicking issues
I started making soy candles a few months ago. I am...
lorieru
Where to get pretty soap labels?
Hi, I was wondering where I could get some pretty soap...
sillymesillyne
Sponsored Products
Fambuena | Swing One XL Pendant Light
YLighting
New Blue Kazak Runner 3x8 Hand Knotted Veg Dyed Wool Rug Adina Collection H3685
BH Sun Inc
Urban Mix Drop Pendant - Tall
$129.99 | Dot & Bo
Furniture of America Erindale 3-Drawer Brown Cherry Nightstand
Overstock.com
Designers Fountain Eco-Gem LED6321 Mini Pendant - Oil Rubbed Bronze - LED6321-AR
$119.50 | Hayneedle
Darya Rugs Ottoman, Red, 6'1" x 8'6" M1776-77
Darya Rugs
Blue Raspberry & Slate Trends Wool Rug
$24.99 | zulily
Neutral Shag Rug 4' x 6' - LIGHT BLUE
$499.00 | Horchow
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™