sewing and turning a lined bodice

donnas_gwOctober 20, 2006

It has been so many years since I've done this. I have a child's jumper pattern that buttons on the shoulders and I thought I would do away with that and just put a seam at the shoulders. I made sure it was large enough for my grandaughter to put in on and take it off with the shoulder seam. From what I can remember, I thought you sewed the front and back shoulder seams together and did the same with the lining. Then put those 2 face to face sewing the neck and arm-hole edges leaveing the under-arm seam open to turn it to the right side. I can't get it turned all the way. What am I doing wrong??

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have you trimmed seam allowances and clipped the curves? and use a chopstick for those small areas.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2006 at 12:53PM
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Yes, I did trim the seam allowance and clip the curves. I used an unsharpened pencil to try to turn it. I can't get the entire bodice turned to the right side, only part of it. I left both underarm holes open. Was I only supposed to leave one open? Thanks.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2006 at 1:08PM
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sorry, under-arm seams, not holes LOL

    Bookmark   October 20, 2006 at 1:20PM
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I can't imagine why it isn't turning inside out from your description.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2006 at 6:40PM
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I don't think you should have sewed the shoulder seams together until after you turn it. It has been quite a while since I made something like that, but it seems that the last time I did the shoulder seams after turning. Both the jumper and the lining. Colleen

    Bookmark   October 20, 2006 at 7:44PM
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I'm beginning to agree with you colleeny. Looking at some other patterns that I have, they show doing it the way you describe. I think you can do it the way I'm trying to do it IF you have more than just the side seams open, like if there's a zipper where you don't sew the bodice/facing closed along that area. Both the front and back bodice are cut on the fold. I was sitting in the living room trying to figure out the thing, and stuck it on my head. Looked like I had 2 horns LOL.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2006 at 7:56PM
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Sorry to see you got lining origami for your efforts...think we all did that with our first lining projects, in your case, length of time got you.

Colleenny is right, you sew the underarm seams and neckline seams to about 3/4" before the end of the shoulder seams and leave the shoulder seams unstitched, press. Turn the lining in (I always like to poke the shoulders back in on themselves to start the process with lining following to the inside when I give it a good shake), poke any corners and curves out, and adjust the lining as you press. Then you sew the shoulder seams together (pin the lining out of the way on each tail to get it out of the way. Then you whipstitch the lining down to cover the seam (I always stick the one end of the free lining seam allowance down the back shoulder of the bodice, turn the lining over 5/8" and stitch it down that way).

    Bookmark   October 21, 2006 at 9:33AM
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I was just reading through some older posts and your's caught my attention. The way you attempted to sew & turn the bodice is the same method I use. But, was the back bodice one solid piece or 2 pieces that would be joined with a zipper or buttons? If it was one solid piece, your method wouldn't work (as you discovered). The back has to be 2 separate pieces in order to be pulled through from the front via the narrow shoulder seem passage.

I tried to sew a lined knit dress with solid front and back pieces years ago and also couldn't turn it. I wish I had read this post then! The method I devised to finish the upper seams was tedious & resulted in a poor looking product.

    Bookmark   November 12, 2006 at 11:04AM
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You don't sew the shoulders together. The zipper is applied first and loops are inserted between the lining and fashion fabric before you sew the lining in. This method, the lining flips to the inside through the nech opening.

Unless the knit was a wool knit, why were you lining the dress to begin with?

    Bookmark   November 14, 2006 at 2:26PM
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hi needle babe, the back bodice was one solid piece. Both front and back bodice were cut on the fold. I hadn't done this for so many years that I had forgotten how to do it. I now know that when both front and back bodices are cut on the fold, you don't sew the shoulder seams together until after you've lined the bodices. However, I can't get that shoulder seam to look right.

    Bookmark   November 14, 2006 at 7:00PM
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