What do I need to know about sewing with sheer fabric?

aok27502August 18, 2009

I am making a formal gown for my SIL to wear to a formal wedding. It has a short jacket which is to be made of sheer fabric, and lined. Do I need to do anything special when sewing on the sheer? I've never used it except for things such as window treatments. I would be mortified if she were to move her arms dancing and the sleeve seam ripped out!

Thanks!

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lizzie2

You should use a fine thread and a smaller needle around a 70 or less if you can find one that small. Your seams should be french seam. double check the measurements for the finish sleeve and you might want to add some more ease if they measure close to what you need. I usually lenghten the seam lenght a little also.

    Bookmark   August 19, 2009 at 2:13PM
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aok27502

Ah, I had forgotten about French seams! It's actually been a while since I did any serious sewing, and years since I made a French seam, so I looked it up to refresh my memory. Several places said that it is, at best, difficult on curved areas such as sleeves, and at worst, unsuitable. Any tips on making the curves nice and neat? It's a bolero jacket, so just side seams, shoulders and sleeves.

Another related question: if I do French seams on the sheer, should I do the same on the lining, for the appearance? The fabric is dark green, so there is very little visibility through it.

    Bookmark   August 19, 2009 at 7:50PM
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lizzie2

take a look at men's dress shirts, the cotton kind. See how they did the seam at the shoulder. It is sort of opposite on the french seam...I think it is called a mock french seam. You could also set in the sleeves and then trim close to the seam and make a bias tape out of the sheer fabric and encase the raw edges in it.

    Bookmark   August 21, 2009 at 12:56PM
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aok27502

Is the seam in men's shirts called flat felled? Or something similar to it. I don't think I want to try that here, because it has a sort of top stitched look, and this is very formal. But the bias tape is also a good idea, if I have enough fabric.

    Bookmark   August 22, 2009 at 4:53PM
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