Temporary repair of buckled laminate counter

Frankie_in_zone_7November 20, 2009

I posted on the kitchen forum and got some good hang-in there support and a few suggestions, but as Ive looked at it more closely and read some more, I would like to see if someone on the Repair forum had specific experience with this problem. IÂve tried to research it, but most laminate repair advice does not quite address my what-ifÂs.

I have kitchen counter laminate with corner seams and as I noted on that forum, I likely placed the top of a slow-cooker over one of the seams and exposed it to steam and moisture. It "buckled up" a day or so later.

Looking at it closely, it looks like the laminate layers have separated for a few inches along the seam and going back from the seam a few inchesÂthat is, when I compare the side thatÂs still glued down to the buckled up side, it looks like the colored green top layer separated from a brown underlayer; I donÂt think IÂm seeing the plywood or particle board.

I am just looking for a temporary fix that lets me go on for a year or so until the complete kitchen remodel can be done. So, am trying to evaluate whether anything will actually work and what would be worse than what it is now.

My main issue that IÂm trying to figure out is that due to the "buckle" effect, this top layer now seems "larger" than its bottom layer, so whenever you press down, the buckle effect just moves along and it wonÂt go flat, and so of course the edge wonÂt come down to meet the other edge.

So, I was reluctant to start trying to apply any contact cement in case it will "stick" very unevenly. The "iron" ( clothes iron) repair method I read about referred to ironing the EDGE to get it to stick to the other edge, and not actually "ironing smooth" the laminate itself.

So first I thought I might just try placing a smooth cutting board and a LOT of weight on top over the buckled area (with no cement) to see if miraculously with even high pressure for ? a few days it smooths out and becomes more cement-able. ( I hadnÂt tried that yet as I first thought I was going to apply cement and was reading about all that.)

Also I wondered if that didnÂt work, could heat could be used Âiron the buckled area of laminate to make it more pliable, and THEN weight downÂor if that will actually un-glue more of the counter.

Or could I Exacto knife out a part of the top layer, and then cover it with something? That would look pretty gross, I guess and starts taking me out of my skill zone.

What I really hate is not just the idea of a "bump" in the counter, which I could work around and spur on my remodeling plans, but the idea of the open popped-up gap where "stuff" collects. So my other idea was, if worse came to worse, to consider some kind of masking tape or similar idea, some rubberized strip or something taped over the gap and just accept the big bump. Of course I would have to think how to color it to blend in with the counter, and of course, the edges of this tape or other material wonÂt take much wear and tear or cleaning vigor.

I appreciate any thoughts or feedback.

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This may or may not be fixable. The only suggestion I have is this. Contact cement can sometimes be reactivated by heat. Here is what I would try, if it were me. Get an iron and a brown paper grocery bag and set the heat to fairly high. Then carefully iron over the flawed area with the bag in place to protect the surface. You want to get the laminate hot enough so that it sticks without getting so hot you damage the top side of the laminate. If that works to get it re-stuck, you then need to remove the bag and quickly place a narrow piece of wood down on the seam and put a heavy weight on top to try to keep the laminate down as it cools. I will warn you, however, that, if you don't do this right, you may get some of the adjacent seam to come up and you will be worse off than when you started.

    Bookmark   November 21, 2009 at 1:13AM
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