Bias for pockets?

xstpenguinApril 2, 2005

Hi Folks

The sun came out today (something of an event this time of year in Scotland!) so I went shopping!?

I've got some lovely linen/cotton blue fabric to make an A-line bias cut skirt. The pattern is very plain, just a 1 piece front and 1 piece back, side zip.

Thing is I can't survive without pockets.

If it was an ordinary skirt I'd just put in quarter top pockets (bought some white with blue flowers cotton, very spring like!) and not worry, but I'm not used to sewing on the bias. Should I not do this, are they going to go a bit strange on the faced pocket edge? Would on seam pockets be better?

If it is ok should I cut the pockets pieces on the straight grain or also the bias and would iron-on interfacing help at all?



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I wouldn't try to alter the pattern in this case - I think you're correct in assuming it may be problematic & distort the hang/fit of the skirt.

I'll bet you can live w/o pockets on 1 garment, can't you?Maybe wear a jacket/cardigan w/ it that DOES have pockets?

    Bookmark   April 2, 2005 at 1:57PM
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1. If you have any wash away stabilizer, you could use it in sewing to keep things under control & wash it out when finished. I would go for the bias pocket in the side seam. You could zigzag over a piece of cotton type crochet thread just inside your regular seam allowance on the area of the skirt where the pocket will go. Do both seam allowances on pocket & skirt. Try this on some scraps. You will have plenty when you cut your skirt.

2. Will your skirt have a band or elastic? If it has a band, you can insert one there. I use to make nurses uniforms for coworkers & one of the most popular styles was a jumper with a bib. On each side there was a pocket opening at the waistband The skirt section was clipped to the seam allowance about 3 or 3 1/2 inches wide where the pocket was placed. The top of one pocket piece was sewn between these clips, like a facing, with their seam allowances extending beyond the area you stitch. Clip pockets at same place as skirt panels & turned under. The other pocket piece was attached around the lower side & the(seam allowance) top of it came up to the height of the skirt panel. That is what fastened it to the bib or waist band. These pockets were cut U shaped & cut it wide enough for seam allowances. Divide the skirt front in fourths & center them in the outer 1/4 of each side. Sew your waist band on from the inside, catching the pocket top as you go around the top of the skirt. Flip your band to the outside & topstitch in place & you will have 2 dinky little pockets big enough for keys, a tissue or lipstick. This is concealed better on skirts with a little fullness to them at the waist area.

If you don't understand, let me know.

    Bookmark   April 2, 2005 at 2:49PM
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Carol - nope not even once ;-) I even usually attach a loop inside the pocket or at the waistband to attach my phone clip to!

Joan - took a few times reading it, but I think I get it. Sound interesting. I don't think it is right for this project, but I'd like to try it on something else.

I ended up going with the most stable (yet decorative) option that I was confident of doing - double jetted pocket set at an angle on the front (top about 3" away from both waist and side seams). I've used the flowery cotton for the jetts with some heavy weight iron-on to give it some body and with a strip of iron on behind the pocket opening on the linen.

I've had no time this week (who keeps nicking it!?) so all I've managed is one set of pocket jetts with the rest of the bits all cut out.

I also decided to put a strip of iron on along the edge where the concealed zip will go (managed to get a matching one, but £2 for a zip!) hope that keeps it from stretching there.

I'll hope to get back to it soon and post a pic when it's done.


PS no rush for spring clothing - northerly gales, it's about 6 degrees celsius and we had a flurry of snow this morning - Scottish weather!

    Bookmark   April 8, 2005 at 11:05AM
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I had to go & look that up, xstpenguin = )

Interesting - I think I've learnt a new term - is 'jetted' the same as what we call 'welt' pockets here in the states? Or is it the slant that makes it 'jetted'?

& does 'double' mean 2?

    Bookmark   April 12, 2005 at 12:08PM
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Hmm, not sure. Double definitely means two of them, though!

When I was at college (Clothing Technology) for the first time last year, we did tons of pockets. I never knew so many existed. So I tend to refer to things the way I was taught at college.

We have a welt pocket, but that is a single piece covering the pocket opening - like on a Man's Jacket top pocket (the one where the hankerchief goes!) Then we had an American Welt pocket, this was like the kind of pocket you'd get on a Trench Coat or Raincoat, at an angle and again the welt quite deep (over 1")to cover the opening.

Jetts are the narrow strips that are within the frame of the pocket opening. I'll have to take a picture!

Nope, doesn't refer to the angle. Cos you can have a single jett and flap on a jacket pocket and that would be straight. You can also mount a zip behind the jetts.

There are 2 ways of making it, most books tell you to stitch on folded strips either side of the slash and then turn them through to the back. We were also taught the hand tailored method which involves stitching 2 wider strips either side of the slash, then when you pull through to the back you use the cut edge to form the jett - makes it thicker and less likely to warp. You then secure by sink-stitching (stitch in the ditch) along the edge and attach the pocket bag on the inside.

Looks nice, but they are fiddly.

Does that help?


    Bookmark   April 15, 2005 at 4:37AM
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Is it a double welt pocket? Looks like a big bound buttonhole? Just curious...

Mary L

    Bookmark   April 16, 2005 at 7:49PM
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YES! It does look just like a big bound buttonhole!

In fact, at college last year, I was making a tweed jacket for myself in Hand Tailoring class and I used polyester suede for the pocket jetts and it looked so good I decided to do bound buttonholes in the same fabric. They were very fiddly. When my classmates saw them, they were shocked that I could be bothered making "weeny pocket jetts" and 3 sets of them too ;-)


    Bookmark   April 17, 2005 at 4:24AM
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Years ago I got a gadget made by Dritz that helps me make perfect bound buttonholes. I don't think they make it anymore, but I have seen the same concept for making welt pockets. It's metal, about 4" long, and has twin thin metal pieces that swing out. You thread the fabric for the buttonhole through, and the thin metal pieces hold the jetts (as you call 'em) in place. Then you place the gadget over the jacket or whatever in the proper place and sew (very carefully) between the thin metal pieces and the metal of the gadget itself, slit down the middle as you would any bound buttonhole and finish as usual. Perfect bound buttonholes every time. If I ever loose my gadget, I'll hafta commit hari kari...

I've posted a picture of the gadget in the Gallery. I don't know how to attach a photo to this post. You can see the thin metal pieces sticking out on the right. They are underneath the gadget and held in place with little metal pieces. Sorry, it's hard to explain.

Mary L

    Bookmark   April 18, 2005 at 10:50PM
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Cool! Me want!

I love gadgets and USEFUL sewing gadgets, what more could you want ;-)

So now everyone is going to be doing jetted pockets and bound buttonholes on every project you've got going!?


    Bookmark   April 19, 2005 at 1:44PM
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