As anyone ever tried using the 20 minute cure wall compound in a texture gun? I am curious if it will work. I have a kitchen ceiling I am going to texture. Thank you for your input.
will not work
It's your kitchen and your ceiling, but I'd really reconsider a textured surface in this location. Textured ceilings become dirty and dingy very quickly and are extremely difficult to clean and/or repaint. In a kitchen with the vapors, etc. from cooking, it will look pretty awful in a matter of months, perhaps even sooner. The best kitchen ceiling treatments are those which provide a smooth, durable and easily cleaned surface.
NONE of the setting compounds belong in a gun unless you want to buy a new gun. The 20 min is only for an experienced professional to use as the first coat hand applied over the tape so that you can complete a project in a single day. It sets rapidly. Too rapidly to ever be used as the final coat, which is why you want the longer set products for the final coats as they have longer workability.
And textured doesn't really belong in a kitchen. Your idea will ruin the gun and ruin the ceiling.
Unless you are using texture to cover a bad taping job, I suggest you reconsider for another reason. Texturing seems to be a pretty dated idea in many installations, and using it in just one location sounds like a less-than-good design decision. It's your place, but that's my 2 cents...
"The 20 min is only for an experienced professional to use as the first coat hand applied over the tape so that you can complete a project in a single day. "
You can do an entire small repair from start to finish with a couple batches of 20 minute compound.
All you have to wait for is each layer to set, not even dry, beofre putting on the next.
Just watch out, the times are only approximate.
I usually put a blob of extra aside to test when the compound has actually set instead of possibly marring the repair.
30 mins in dead of winter mixed with ice cold water = 5 minutes in the summer on a 100* afternoon.
I didnt use it. I do thank you for your input.
For you "20" pro's, what's your mixing technique? Just wondering because 20 seems to have a little bit longer set and dry time than I recall in the past, even when mixed thick. Easier to sand, to, or so it seems. Anybody else notice this or is it just me?
Typo: meant to type "too" (not "to"). Me hates bad grammar.
Since 20 is really only that useful for small tasks, I usually mix it in a slightly larger pan a batch at a time.
The mix pan will fill a typical mud box twice.
For very small jobs, a mud pan at a time.
A 2 inch by 3 inch margin trowel works well for the initial mixing, followed by a 6 inch knife to make sure the whole mix is uniform.
Temperature does drive the setting time, more so than how much water is aided (within limits).
Setting compound hardens like real plaster, by chemical reaction.
If the water is pulled out by oter material old rough plaster edges) rapidly the strength of the setting compound can be compromised.
It is great in small repair work since multiple coats can be applied in a few hours to finish a job without having to return another day.
On larger jobs I still prefer it since it can be mixed to have nearly zero shrinkage even in thick sections.
This can allow two coats for a repair instead of three.
A power mixer in an old pre-mix bucket with a low rpm 1/2 inch drill works well.
Again I use a margin trowel to get the powder at least initially damp before using the mixer blade